Miter Guage

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Still TS-less, but haven't quit looking (leaning toward Grizzly 0690 if I don't locate something used by the time I'm ready). It seems like a good miter guage is practically as important as a good fence and a good blade.
The Incra Miter 3000 looks "dandy"--perhaps overkill. I heard that the one that comes with the saw is "junk". What do you think?
Cheers, Bill
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Bill wrote:

Sorry, I need to work on my spelling: "gAUge"!!!
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Depends on your needs.
A stock gauge can be made to work just fine, but you will find that you rarely use it.
Take the one that comes with the saw and jazz it up with several bases and some snazzy t-track like this http://www.woodpeck.com/ttrackmain.html
Build yourself a sled and forget about the miter gauge.
Table saws are made to rip wood and sheet goods, neither of which require a miter gauge.
I would look for a used Unisaw and consider doing a rebuild.
Go here for a LOT of ideas: http://www.owwm.org /
On 3/13/2012 12:43 PM, Bill wrote:

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On 3/13/2012 2:43 PM, Bill wrote:

I have a couple of Dubby jigs, left and right, had a Kreg miter gauge and fence till it froze up on me and was worthless ofter that. I have research many over the years. Osbourn, don't taste your time, inherent flaws. I now have the Incra 1000HD and I added the next longer sized fence. That is a superb miter gauge and I only initially wanted to use it to square the ends of boards. For the most part it is so accurate that I almost exclusively use it over the Dubby jig sleds that I used for 11 years prior.
I looked at the 3000 but decided there was too much going on behind the miter fence. 1 degree indexing is good enough for me however I can still dial in 1/10 of a degree.
I find I use the longer fence all of the time. Something to consider.
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On Tuesday, March 13, 2012 12:43:50 PM UTC-7, Bill wrote:

I am a sled guy and rarely use the miter guage but find a basic one good enough for what I do with it. That looks like a nice Griz saw. I can see they have a 1023 for the same price that is 5hp not 3 like the 690. Not that you need it but the extra umph can be a big help on some projects. Maybe not as slick a setup on the riving and fence, but not sure.
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On 3/13/2012 4:32 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:

enough for what I do with it. That looks like a nice Griz saw. I can see they have a 1023 for the same price that is 5hp not 3 like the 690. Not that you need it but the extra umph can be a big help on some projects. Maybe not as slick a setup on the riving and fence, but not sure.
Not doubting the 5 hp has more umph than 3 hp but in what application would that be better than 3 hp?
I have resawed a 1x6 piece of Ipe in two passes, full depth cutting and had no indication of strain with 3hp.
I could see the advantage if the saw was running hard all day long continuously, but just wondering.
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My 3 hp can run out of power cutting dado's some times.
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Recalibrate your elbow tension for those times. ;)
-- And the day came when the risk to remain tight in a bud was more painful than the risk it took to blossom. -- Anas Nin
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On 3/13/2012 7:37 PM, Pat wrote:

Well there is that but I don't witness that either, cutting 3/4" wide, half inch deep dados in oak.
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That seems strange... is it a 3 HP induction motor pulling around 14-15 AMP on 220 V or is it a universal motor running on 110 with a 3 HP rating?
I find that cutting even deep dados isn't a problem with my 3 HP Jet cabinet saw as there is plenty of clearance for saw dust clearing and there is no kerf binding. This as compared to rip cuts with a typical 1/8" kerf blade where the ability to remove saw dust is limited by the gullet size, and kerf pinch is not uncommon even with rip blades... Those issues, rather than the HP, require slowing the feed rate down a bit in 8/4" stock.
John
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In article
snipped-for-privacy@online.mac says...

I'm flashing on the time that I had a piece of 8/4 ipe planed down to 1- 1/4 at the lumberyard. Don't know the horsepower on their planer but it's about the size of my SUV. Went about six inches and stalled.
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On Tuesday, March 13, 2012 5:33:34 PM UTC-7, Leon wrote:

I have had 8\4 oak bevel cuts struggle on my ole Powermatic 3hp. I saw similar strain on a uni-saw at my buddies shop, that eventually burned out and he upgraded to a 5hp and it always cuts like buttah. All thing sbeing equal a 5hp would better in IMNSHO but I suppose all things aren't equal and the newer model saw with the 3hp prob has some better features in other areas. So if the guy was going to be ripping 4x4's all day the 5hp might be bettah.
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On 3/14/2012 11:39 AM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:

enough for what I do with it. That looks like a nice Griz saw. I can see they have a 1023 for the same price that is 5hp not 3 like the 690. Not that you need it but the extra umph can be a big help on some projects. Maybe not as slick a setup on the riving and fence, but not sure.

strain on a uni-saw at my buddies shop, that eventually burned out and he upgraded to a 5hp and it always cuts like buttah. All thing sbeing equal a 5hp would better in IMNSHO but I suppose all things aren't equal and the newer model saw with the 3hp prob has some better features in other areas. So if the guy was going to be ripping 4x4's all day the 5hp might be bettah.
Sounds like the "ole" Powermatic motor was on its last leg, or dull blades. 3.25" buried in Ipe beats just about any other torture test. ;~) Something was not right on both saws you mentioned. There should have been no problem making a bevel cut in even 12/4 oak.
FWIW Ipe is 2.7 times harder than White Oak..
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On 3/14/12 12:05 PM, Leon wrote:

I call Oak Rust.
--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
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On 3/14/2012 12:40 PM, -MIKE- wrote:

Hummmmmmmmmmmm
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wrote:

OhmyBuddha! Not the Oak Rust thread again...
-- Stay centered by accepting whatever you are doing. This is the ultimate. -- Chuang-tzu
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On Wednesday, March 14, 2012 10:05:51 AM UTC-7, Leon wrote:

Well, my experience is different than yours. I guess they offer the 5hp just so they can get more money.
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On 3/14/2012 2:05 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:

enough for what I do with it. That looks like a nice Griz saw. I can see they have a 1023 for the same price that is 5hp not 3 like the 690. Not that you need it but the extra umph can be a big help on some projects. Maybe not as slick a setup on the riving and fence, but not sure.

similar strain on a uni-saw at my buddies shop, that eventually burned out and he upgraded to a 5hp and it always cuts like buttah. All thing sbeing equal a 5hp would better in IMNSHO but I suppose all things aren't equal and the newer model saw with the 3hp prob has some better features in other areas. So if the guy was going to be ripping 4x4's all day the 5hp might be bettah.

No, I think both saws you had issues with had bad motors, or dull blades, or these saws were out of alignment, which seems apparent since you did have one motor fail. Seriously a 220 volt 3hp motor should have easily handled what you were cutting.
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The miter gauges provided with most table saws aren't very good: no stops or detents, and rather coarse graduations on the miter scale. IMHO, a detent at zero is an absolute necessity.
When I started doing serious woodworking, I got rid of the stock gauge in favor of an Incra 1000.
Two years later, I replaced it with an Incra 3000. Eight years later, I'm still using the 3000, and have no plans to change to anything else.
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Doug Miller wrote:

Doug and Leon: Do you usually hold and/or clamp a zero-clearence board and/or sled to the miter gAUge fence when you use it (for work you want to come out "nice")? I'm starting to appreciate why miter saws are popular...
Bill
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