MDF ok for rail and stiles?

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On a raised panel cabinet door thats 22 x 44", would 3/4" MDF provide adequate structure for the rail and stiles also? The rail and stiles are 3" wide.
It would use MDF for the raised panel and rather then floating (as is necessary for a solid wood door), the panel would be glued all around the 4 edges providing added structural strength. Further, I think this also would use 3 hinges when using the Blum type hidden hinges.
I could use cheap dry 2x4 milled to size also for the rail and stile, but sticking with MDF would reduce the work load.
Any thoughts of your experience are appreciated?
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I installed MDF base molding in my house and was so impressed I thought I discovered electricity. Several months have gone by and the stuff is starting to look crappy. Yes MDF machines easily and produces crisp lines but it can't take a shot. The slightest bump with something will leave a mark or a chip. Also consider the holding power of screws in MDF, will the hinges hold in the MDF? I would go with Poplar or similar.
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wrote:

Since he is using the Blum type hinges the weight of the door is not carried by the screws. the screws simply keep the hinge from pulling out of the 35mm holes that they fit into.

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4
would
If you don't mind a material that cannot stand up to normal use without showing dents, dings and other deformities, then by all means use MDF. The stuff is pure junk and should be relegated to the home improvement shows on TV.
--

-Mike-
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I think it is great stuff where appropriate. Like all materials they have both appropriate uses and inappropriate.
I love making templates from MDF if they will be short lived. Very easy to shape with any type of cutter. I also like it as underlayment when you want to add some heaft to a project. I've used it laminated under under 3/4 ply to thicken table tops to 1-1/2" and add some weight. It works great as a replacable bench top, dividers and back boards in some projects, they even make entire single piece cabinet doors from it which is fine when they do the thermal shrink coatings. It is indenspeible as a CNC bed, etc. etc.
BW
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MDF is of course not as nice as solid wood but with proper prep and paint it will hold up very well in this application.
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it
I grudgingly have to admit "I know", but I just hate MDF and sometimes I just can't keep quiet about it.
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-Mike-
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.

I do understand your point of view and 7 or 8 years ago would have agreed. It is definitely not for everything.
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You guys must be out of touch with the real world then... All of those "Remodeling Shows" make all of their high quality furniture out of MDF. I can only hope to make pieces as nice as their's some day! MDF held toghether with 18gauge brads is the only way to go if you want TRUE "heirloom quality".
Ha.. Ha.. Ha.. :-)

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True, for some heirs. Heck, cardboard and duct tape is too good for some, since it can't be spent anyway. ;-)
-- Mark
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Mark Jerde wrote:

HEY!
High-end cardboard deserves hot glue! <G>
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"Heirloom quality" Now there is a description that means nothing.
An Heirloom does not have to be a quality piece. An heirloom is something that has simply been a family possession handed down from generation to generation. I have a 16 lb sledge hammer badly rusted and with a cracked handle that is an heirloom.
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"Leon" wrote in message

As you well know, there are a ton of solid mdf interior doors being sold now in the building industry these days.
As to the OP's original question ... and for him the question: Why even bother with constructing mdf rails and stiles?
Most mdf cabinet doors are made entirely of a single piece of mdf, with the "raised panel" simply routed into the face, and the edges routed in an appropriate profile.
Add a couple of 35mm hinge holes, fill, prime, paint and away you go.
If you're going with mdf in the first place, this is usually the best/easiest/longer lasting approach, IME.
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The last time I routed MDF I got a bunch of "fuzzies" where the bit passed (I was routing out a depression in a block). Is that a function of the MDF or of my router bit?
I would use MDF more often, but when I encountered those fuzzies I wasn't sure how to proceed. They didn't really sand out, and it just looked crappy. I had to change my project materials to jummywood and krylon!
-Nathan

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Why build them at all? http://www.lakesidemoulding.com /
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Dave in Houston



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"NuWaveDave" wrote in message

Why have a shop full of tools? ;)
But at those prices for the mdf doors you're right if mdf is what you want and don't want to be bothered.
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For "real wood" projects? ~:o)
Dave in Houston
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"NuWaveDave" wrote in message

Au contraire ... mdf _is_ "real wood" ... just ask Mattress Mac, or any furniture store salesman. ;)
Thanks for that link, BTW ... I passed it on to a past customer who was in the shop yesterday, and who, while looking to build his own doors, was looking for me to tell/advise him how to do it.
That oughta take care of that! ;)
--
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its a hobby. You think Im cheap? I cant afford myself

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8 poplar doors = $550. vs 2 sheet MDF = $50 30bdft poplar = $75 My time = PRICELESS

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