Ah, yes. 2 identical tree patterns! :)
If I can't find 2 identical trees, what do you suggest as the best method or
cutting the drawer from the rail? I'd really like to be able to have a
drawer face that would be rabbeted to the drawer sides with a small 3/8"
overlap in from of the rail. I hope I'm describing it with enough detail.
The apron was cut from a single piece of wood. The task
for you is to cut those drawer slots out without wrecking
the pattern. This can be done probably several different
ways. (1) Jig saw (2) Rip and glue apron back together
leaving hole for drawers. (3) Buy a snazzy scrollsaw that
cuts a VERY fine kerf.
My personal favorite is (2) with a thin kerf blade.
Jim Bates wrote:
Just saw something like this again on the WoodWorks show. The drawer front
is cut from the same stock as the apron. Two rips slice the stock, then two
cross cuts to cut out the drawer front. Glue pieces back together - sans
door front piece. The project on TV was a flush front drawer, but I'd
imagine the technique is similar.
Flush faced/inset drawer faces could be done with the two rip cuts/
two cross cuts per drawer - thin kerf blade of course - bandsaw
maybe even better. But it's the overlap on the drawer face(s) that
makes things more complicated.
You could resaw the drawer faces down to make 1/8 inch "thick
veneer, glue them to an oversized piece of the same type of wood
and chamfer the edges to semi-hide the transistion to the back
board. Centering you're "veneer" pieces could be a little tricky
but can be done. I suspect that's what they did for the piece you
provided the url for
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Overlay is the problem. If you lack the tools for resawing a veneer
and/or pressing it to another piece of stock, you might be able to
spoof it in another way...
Cut the drawer face out of the single board using your method of
choice. This will get you to the point where making a flush drawer
would be easy.
To get the overlay, use another piece of stock that is similar and
"fill in the hole" Basically, cut 1/2" strips that you edge glue (with
bicuits, splines, or dowels) into the drawer "holes" to make the holes
smaller and produce your support for the overlay. (I hope I am
describing this well)
The grain matching will not be a concern because when the drawer is
closed it will cover up the added material.
Of course, the veneer method would definitely be a more professional
Just a thought,
You can cut that front with two rip cuts, four crosscuts from a single
board As long as the grain pattern doesn't run diagonally across the board,
the drawer front, the center and end offcuts, and upper and lower rails will
grain match fairly well.
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