maple


Looking for suggestions to finish some (curly/birds eye/burl) mixed in a butcher block format.
Application is as a sewing table top. Looking at a Spar type varnish as a final layer but wondering what would bring out the character without covering it up on the wood.
Also have a food type application for some of this and wondering if anyone has used walnut oil on maple?
Thanks!
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Spar varnish should not be used. It "gives", which is why it is a preferred finish for outdoor projects. It isn't as durable as needs be for a table top. CV or poly would be better for durability.
Dave
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Thanks, again! Any thoughts on oil/stain for said wood?
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On Fri, 08 Apr 2005 20:14:19 -0700, David wrote:

The thought of spar varnish anywhere near sewing is scary. Cloth would stick. Pins would mash into it. OP wants hard and smooth. Others can chime in with the details of those hard finishes; I don't have experience with them. Lacquer, maybe, or one of those epoxy kits?
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butcher block format.
I've had best results with TransTint Honey Amber #6001. (Disclaimer ... no financial interest - blah, blah) I add the dye to a party filled bottle (I usually use a half pint) of denatured alcohol until I get the shade I want. When you get near the shade, test it on a sample and add a few drops at a time.

Use mineral oil on cutting boards. I don't know about the safety of ther dye, but maybe Homestead Finishing Products can advise you.
http://www.homesteadfinishing.com /
Joel Jacobson
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I use walnut oil all the time on popcorn bowls and treen. It imparts some color, cures slowly, but does give some water shedding capability. Mineral oil never cures, continuing to collect whatever's available until it is washed away, at which point the surface is clean, but looks dry, so people apply more oil, to collect....
As others have said, long oil varnishes are not a good idea for your sewing center. Those rock hard water-borne types are out for the opposite reason - every bit of movement available in wood is in the top.
If you use oil-based poly, you get a bit of figure flash and a finish in the same container.
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On Sat, 09 Apr 2005 03:11:31 -0000, the inscrutable noreply

Johnson's paste wax.

No experience with it here on maple, but it would probably work.
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What about a Danish Oil wouldn't that be easy and simple covered by couple coats of wax? I've used it on some oak chairs and looked nice really accented the grain. Super simple, seems to hold up so far anyway.

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I recently used it on a combination cherry / maple / walnut cutting board. Seemed to work fine. The new owner is proud of it.
Bill
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wrote:

I've finished a bunch of maple, and my personal favorite finish for it is sanded to 1000 grit, a quick single coat of tung oil to help the grain pop, and 2-3 coats of shellac. Looks shiny and warm. I believe the shellac is non-toxic for food applications, as well.
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For the sewing table top, you might look at Arm-R-Seal. combo Poly/oil that is a great finish, easy app and can be reapplied without much prep. layering works well with this stuff too.
Schroeder

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