Looking for suggestions to finish some (curly/birds eye/burl) mixed in a
butcher block format.
Application is as a sewing table top. Looking at a Spar type varnish as a
final layer but wondering what would bring out the character without
covering it up on the wood.
Also have a food type application for some of this and wondering if anyone
has used walnut oil on maple?
Spar varnish should not be used. It "gives", which is why it is a
preferred finish for outdoor projects. It isn't as durable as needs be
for a table top. CV or poly would be better for durability.
The thought of spar varnish anywhere near sewing is scary. Cloth would
stick. Pins would mash into it. OP wants hard and smooth. Others can chime
in with the details of those hard finishes; I don't have experience with
them. Lacquer, maybe, or one of those epoxy kits?
"Keep your ass behind you"
vladimir a t mad scientist com
butcher block format.
I've had best results with TransTint Honey Amber #6001. (Disclaimer ...
no financial interest - blah, blah) I add the dye to a party filled
bottle (I usually use a half pint) of denatured alcohol until I get the
shade I want. When you get near the shade, test it on a sample and add
a few drops at a time.
Use mineral oil on cutting boards. I don't know about the safety of
ther dye, but maybe Homestead Finishing Products can advise you.
I use walnut oil all the time on popcorn bowls and treen. It imparts some
color, cures slowly, but does give some water shedding capability. Mineral
oil never cures, continuing to collect whatever's available until it is
washed away, at which point the surface is clean, but looks dry, so people
apply more oil, to collect....
As others have said, long oil varnishes are not a good idea for your sewing
center. Those rock hard water-borne types are out for the opposite reason -
every bit of movement available in wood is in the top.
If you use oil-based poly, you get a bit of figure flash and a finish in the
What about a Danish Oil wouldn't that be easy and simple covered by couple
coats of wax? I've used it on some oak chairs and looked nice really
accented the grain. Super simple, seems to hold up so far anyway.
I've finished a bunch of maple, and my personal favorite finish for it
is sanded to 1000 grit, a quick single coat of tung oil to help the
grain pop, and 2-3 coats of shellac. Looks shiny and warm. I believe
the shellac is non-toxic for food applications, as well.
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