Lee Valley Inlay Kit 04J26.05

So I was ordering several goodies from LV last week (chisels, One Way Talon Chuck) and at the last minute decided I should make sure there isn't something else I just have to have right now (yeah right). Bingo Inlay Kit! Yes yes, $8 and I really want one... Well it got here a couple days ago, and I'm just now getting around to giving it a try.
The good news is, it's precision machined brass, just like I've come to expect from LV. Bad news it's 1.75" and doesn't fit the template guide mount on my PC 8529? Quick call to to LV technical support and Carolin tells me the bad news which I already know. It's not designed to fit my porter cable (or any other router I guess as they all have the same size mount, I think). It's designed to go into the Veritas Base Plate (or Adapter Base Plate). Isn't this weird? I've read a lot of router books and have never seen anyone suggest doing inlay work "upside down" with the work on top of the router table.
She offered to have me send it back, but I've become attached to it now. I'm not wanting to spend good money after bad and get their base plate, as I've made a lot already and this one would only serve to mount this guide. I'm a little hesitant to attempt to make a base plate to mount it because it seems all the precision is dependant on the bit being perfectly centered in the guide.
Any suggestions?
Kevin in Bakersfield
P.S. And no, I don't think using it as any kind of body art is an option for me.
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It's not that difficult to make an accurately centered baseplate. Use your existing base as a template for the mounting screws. Load a centering bit with the new base mounted, and lower the router until the point just kisses the base material. This will give you a precise center marker. You can then use a Forstner bit of the appropriate size to create the opening. I've made a few baseplates this way and they're all more accurate than a factory plate.
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wrote:

I do that often. I use left over chunks of acrylic solid surface countertop. Most fabshops will give you sink cut-outs for free, especially the vanity-bowl sizes... Make sure they are acrylic. When lowering the router, keep the clamping action of the motor body as tight as possible while lowering the bit. On bigger PC production routers, if you undo the tension of the motor, there is about 3/32 worth of slop in it. I make square router bases for travelling along fences. After I make the base, I shave off 1/64 of one side of the square base and mark it. Then, when I am jointing an edge of a board with a router bit and fence combo, I twist the whole unit to the marked edge of the base, slide it against to fence to shave off a perfect whisper of material. Here is an expensive way to do that: http://www.specialtytools.com/cgi-bin/web_store/web_store.cgi?page=solid_ surface/cc-base.html&cart_id250786_27802
I also make my own wavey-bit bases for TrueMatch routerbits. Centering is not important on those, but the 1/8th height difference is crucial. Another costlier way to do that: http://www.specialtytools.com/cgi-bin/web_store/web_store.cgi?page=seamin g/wavy.html&cart_id250786_27802
Rob
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I'm going to get the whole set of template guides from LV, just because they are so much nicer than the PC set I've been using, but I've decided to go a head a keep the 04J26.01. I started thinking what I might try is to create a nice base plate for my DW673 trim router (which I use rarely) and just keep it setup for inlay work instead of using the jumbo plunge PC8529. I'll have to think about this, at 1.75" this template guide is almost as big as the existing base on the DW673.
Kevin in Bakersfield
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Kevin wrote:

If I'm understanding the online catalog, the templare guide is 7/16" and you also have a ring nut and a 7/16" inlay bushing.
<http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?pageG249&category=1,43000> shows guide rings and nuts that are supposed to fit all Porter-Cable routers. Part 46J91.14 is a 7/16" guide ring that should work with your inlay bushing - and LV lists it for US$3.20 and the ring nut is 46J91.11 and costs US$1.90
You might check with Carolin to make sure that this is a workable solution.
And if Robin is lurking: Would it make sense to offer that same inlay bushing as a separate item on the page with the PC stuff?
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
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Talon
Kit!
and
work
it
in
Hi Kevin -
Contact Customer service again - return the guide and ring nut (keep the rest of the parts) - and ask for 46J91.16 (7/16 template guide for PC routers) and 46J91.11 ring nut....
Same parts - PC sizes.....same price....
Cheers -
Rob
(they'll be expecting your call)
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Rob, I'm so impressed with your products and service. I forgot to mention before that customer service answered the phone on the second ring and the very first person I spoke to (Carolin) knew exactly what I was talking about. The company I work for also has a customer support department and I know just how hard this is to do.
The machine work is so much better than the PC set of guides I have, I'm going to order the whole set of 8 guides. I might as well, since I have to order one of those Graduated Micro-Adjust Marking Guages anyway!
Kevin in Bakersfield
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Robin Lee wrote:

Rob...
You know your products better than do I; but in your online catalog:
"F. 46J91.16 5/8" 17/32" 9/16" $3.20"
doesn't look like it'll accept a 7/16" guide bushing. How about:
"D. 46J91.14 7/16" 11/32" 5/32" $3.20"
instead?
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
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Good spot Morris - my goof, I put the wrong product number! Better stick with my real job... :)
Cheers -
Rob
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Robin Lee wrote:

No, no, no! The job you do (both on and off the web) is much appreciated. No changes please.
(Except that I really would appreciate if you guys would look for opportunities to use non-rusting alloys/metals for your tools - especially squares and plane bodies!
AND that I'd be really pleased if you opened a store down my way :)
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
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Yea, we need a store here in Ohio too. Or maybe just a big brige across Lake Erie! ;) --dave

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