Jte JWBS-14OS Band saw table resurface

My wife bought me a used BS for Father's day (you gotta love 'em.... the wife... and the tools too!) The table has some rust spots on it. I was wondering if it is worth getting the table resurfaced (surface ground or sanded). I could use a stone and oil then recoat. I got some Boeshield rust remover at a woodworking show, and could try that. I just thought a resurfacing would eliminate any "bumps". If so, where can I get it redone?
Thanks Frank Raleigh nc
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OOps JET

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Boeshield is good for rust prevention, not removal. Top Saver is great for rust removal. It is about $20 for a kit. You get the spray, a couple of scrubbie things, wiping rag, plastic gloves. You can get Top Saver from Woodcraft and probably many other places.
Just spray it on, let it sit a few minutes and take the scrubbing thing to it and you'll be amazed at how it comes out. Once cleaned, protect it with periodic treatments of Boeshield. Ed
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On Thu, 10 Jun 2004 10:09:04 -0400, snipped-for-privacy@bellsouth-ANTISPAM-.net wrote:

dude, it's a tool not a piece of furniture.
take a wad of steel wool and a squirt of wd40 and get the surface rust off. coat it with boeshield or wax or whatever and cut some wood.
no matter *what* you use on it the iron will darken with age. it's not a bad thing.
if the table is warped getting it ground makes sense.
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Thanks I have the rust remover from Boeshiels (I got the rest remover T9 and gum remover at Charlotte NC Show. I guess I'll try a stone to remove the "bumps" and use the topcoat. Just picky...
Thanks
snipped-for-privacy@bellsouth-ANTISPAM-.net wrote:

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snipped-for-privacy@bellsouth-ANTISPAM-.net wrote in

Like Bridger said, it's a BANDSAW. You're still going to have to use at least one other tool to clean things up after you cut stock with this, probably more than one.
Clean it. Wax it. Put a new, sharp blade in it. Enjoy it. Make some sawdust. That's why your wife bought it for you, I suppose. Unless she just wanted to get you out of the house for the evening ;-)
Patriarch
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snipped-for-privacy@bellsouth-ANTISPAM-.net wrote in

Like Bridger said, it's a BANDSAW. You're still going to have to use at least one other tool to clean things up after you cut stock with this, probably more than one.
Clean it. Wax it. Put a new, sharp blade in it. Enjoy it. Make some sawdust. That's why your wife bought it for you, I suppose. Unless she just wanted to get you out of the house for the evening ;-)
Patriarch
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snipped-for-privacy@bellsouth-ANTISPAM-.net wrote:

I've used a combination of 0000 steel wool, WD-40, and Barkeeper's Friend to clean off rust spots on my table saw. Sure brightened it up! Follow up with either Johnson's Paste Wax or Boeshield.
--
Mortimer Schnerd, RN

snipped-for-privacy@XXXXcarolina.rr.com
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Frank, Did the Fence and Miter Gage come with it ?
I ask because I have a 'set' of those items, NEW - in their UNOPENED boxes. Yes, they are for the 14inch Open Stand saw.
All I want is what I spent for them . . . Amazon cheap prices. . . but I'm open to negotiation. I'll probably be needing/wanting a 6 inch Riser kit and good Re-Saw blades, so I figure here's a way to get them before the URGENT 'requirement' comes up.
I know the 'kit' you are talking about . . . got the same items. I tend to have highly corrosive sweat . . . stuff is always rusting up on me. Get a supply of 'Medium' 3-M pads {the 'non-metallic' steel wool} in the 4x9 inch size. Get a 'chunk' of that 'non-slip' cloth and cut a piece about the same size, and a piece of 1/2 or 3/4 ply, or MDF. Make a a pile . . .3-M pad - 'non-slip' - ply. Spray the 'cleaner' liberally on the table, then apply the 'pile' using both hands and a straight back&forth motion . . . like Holystoning a deck. Wipe with a dry paper towel. If some rust remains . . . wet it and do it again. You can use the same 'arrangement' with a strip of 340 or 400 grit Carbide paper to check for flatness . . . or courser then progressively finer grits to actually flatten it yourself. Use the edge of a piece of ply {THINNER then the miter slot} with a piece of the 3-M folded around it . . . make sure to get the inside corners.
Now here is the KEY . . . That 'remover' is Oxalic Acid {just like Teak cleaner}. The metal table will now be ACTIVE and VERY prone to rust. BEFORE you apply the cleaner, make a solution of water and a little Baking Soda. NOW apply that solution to the table to neutralize any acid which will be in the PORES of the cast iron. Wipe dry, and rinse with ALCOHOL - to remove any residual water. Now spray with the Boeshield and wipe dry. Wait about an hour or two . . . then spray again, only this time gently wipe it . . . more of a smear than a removal.
Except for the waiting, the entire process shouldn't take more than about 30-minutes. The important thing is it LASTS. I found out the hard way, the rust starts in the pores and WILL keep coming back.
Another thing . . . keep 'regular air' away from the saw table. Fortunately I got my hands on some HUGH Vapor Inhibitor bags {actually taller than the saw !!}. I pull one over the saw when it is not in use, and do the same with my Grizzly Drill Press. For smaller equipment {or if I didn't have these bags} I use clear, plastic trash bags . . . and a couple of 'chips' of Vapor Inhibiting material. The same stuff is sold in perforated 'tins', etc. under the 'Bullfrog' and other brand names.
Regards & Good Luck,
Regards & Thanks, Ron Magen Backyard Boatshop

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Ron, I am trying to email you, I might be interested. Frank
Ron Magen wrote:

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