Jointing problems

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On 12/11/2012 12:37 PM, Bill wrote:

I don't know of a single commercially available table saw that does not come with, at a minimum, a splitter.
Be careful what you see in these magazines about safety, some of it is valid, some sheer political correctness.
Awareness of and an unflagging practice of "Safety" in the shop is unarguably the single most valuable component of a lasting enjoyment of same. However, too often in the current world of print and bits and bytes, playing the "safety" card has become a mixture of the tone of political correctness, a whiff of wikipedia wisdom, and a nagging fear of being held accountable, presented in toto with a smug assertiveness that presupposes the purveyor's superior ken, but, in actuality is little more than ignorance of underlying issues swept under the shop mat.
--
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Swingman wrote:

I definitely agree with you. When did "splitters" start being required on new saws?
BTW, the page number is 12, and the letter was from Andy Olerud from Driggs, Idaho. Maybe he is reading?
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My Craftsman table saw dates from the '80s, I believe. It came with a splitter of sorts, complete with antikickback pawls and a bladeguard. This combination is mounted on the back of the saw and it should be in place for all cuts except dado. I do know I should have always used it, because it is necessary. DAMHIKT!!
Btw, the instructions say to occasionally sharpen the teeth on the antikickbackpawls, but you know ...
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Han
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Han wrote:

I never even heard anyone mention that before, but it makes sense!
If they lose their grip, it's probably time.
How often do they mean by "occasionally"? That must have been written in by a lawyer. : )
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Juast going by memory. I had to peruse the manual a little while ago. I have always had a bit of trouble getting the blade adjusted to an angle, and then back to 90. The Wixey digital angle readout widget is always a great help.
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Han
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Han wrote:

I already picked up one of those, and I don't even have a TS yet! If Grizzly would come up with a coupon, I'd click for a TS and a jointer. I'm just in the shopping mood. Although something tells me I may be sorry if I don't finish painting the work area first! : )
The Incra 1000/HD Miter Guage is still on sale for $119 at Amazon. I just can't click on that w/o having the saw--at least I haven't yet. If it should drop another 10 bucks or more, I think I'll have to!
Bill
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Rip or Cross-Cut? ;~)
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Doesn't really matter, John. :)}
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Han
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On 12/11/2012 1:21 PM, Bill wrote:

Long before the 70's They were fundamentally a part of the guard.

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Leon wrote:

My dads Craftsman TS was half-homemade. It sat resting waist high on a metal bench with a piece of plywood supporting the saw (with a hole underneath for the sawdust to fall through) and the motor behind it. Cutting, fitting and varnishing the plywood top was my dad's early woodworking projects (he was more of a gardener). Being a very young kid, I watched. I think the saw was a hand-me-down in the late 60s, so it was probably pretty old.
Cutting big pieces of plywood on it routinely pinched the blade and it could kick a little--but it wasn't powerful like today's monsters. It had no splitter and no guard and we weren't sophisticated enough for a roller stand or outfeed table--we just used more hands.
It still sits right where it did, but my dad told me a few years before he passed that he "didn't trust it" anymore. So I'll discard it someday without turning it on again. Of course, cutting plywood gave me shortness of breath even back then before dust masks were invented, so I didn't use it much. And to be frank, I learned to stay plenty far away when my dad ran it.
If it sounds interesting to you, and you're in SE Michigan, I can direct you to where you can pick it up for free. It may be a valuable antique! : ) Sorry for the long post.
Bill
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On Tue, 11 Dec 2012 17:33:11 -0600, Leon wrote:

I have a 1948 Delta "contractor" saw and it has an overhead guard and a splitter. So yes, they've been around a while.
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Larry Blanchard wrote:

I guess even long ago, folks didn't like having boards kicked-back at them! : ) Thanks.
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On 12/11/12 1:00 PM, Swingman wrote:

Many other times, these letter to the editor leave out key aspects of the incident which illustrate proof of the writer's foolishness and/or ignorance that was the cause of the problem to begin with.
Such letters are generally the writer's own therapy.
--

-MIKE-

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Healing therapy, that is :)}
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Han
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"Han" wrote:

------------------------------------------------------------------- If this is that 4" wide, benchtop jointer, then your 42" long board is the problem.
I always had the same problem on boards much over 30" long.
I ended up using a straight edge and a router with a pattern bit.
Lew
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On 12/10/2012 3:33 PM, Han wrote:

perfect. I like a sprung joint since the ends shrink faster than the middle. Hard to say what you did wrong.
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Are you talking edge jointing? Sled and tablesaw.
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wrote:

Good thought, but I can't fit a 42" long board on my sled :( I glued the boards together and will cut through the glued joint with my fancy Freud blade to "joint" the edges that way, then reglue the boards.
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Han
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On 12/11/2012 10:40 AM, Han wrote:

Depending upon the wood, its grain and any released tension, that may or may not work.
Simply make a jointing sled for your table saw:
http://www.toolcrib.com/blog/2009/02/6-table-saw-jointing-jig-plans-straight-edge-no-jointer
That one is more complicated than necessary, but you get the idea.
This one is simple and would be easy to make ... used one like it for years before buying a jointer:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?paged15&site=ROCKLER
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It seemed to work - Now gluing it up
<https://plus.google.com/photos/106537810172954900431/albums/582074621296 8281185?authkey=CPPji_beg6TKkwE>
Looking at those setups now!
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Han
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