Help. I am currently making an end table. I am working on the top which
will (hopefully) be made of the most beautiful maple I have ever seen. The
problem is that this is the most figured maple I have ever seen in my life.
It is a combination of birdseye and curly maple. I need to edge glue 4
boards to make the table top and am having a heck of a time jointing the
boards on my Jet jointer. I even removed the knives, lapped the back and
sharpened them on my Makita sharpener. I also took the time to put the
knives back in using a dial indicator to get them near perfect. Even with
all of this, the boards are coming out of the jointer very unacceptable.
Even though I am taking a very light cut, I am getting tearout. Any ideas?
I don't own a jointing plane (#7 or #8)...would these do any better?
No mention has been made of the thickness of the boards, but a
makeshift guide/jig can be used to hold the card edge parallel to the
edge. A card scraper doesn't have to have a bent to the blade - just
put a fresh edge on the card. I don't know if this will solve the
OP's problem, but it's an idea. Wiping the wood down with water or
alcohol before jointing may help as well.
I have tried running the boards through in both directions. There was very
little difference between the two directions.....it is really hard to tell
what direction this grain is going!.
I was using a smoothing plane on the face (not edge) of the drawer front.
It was very tough going but I was able to remove any problems on the surface
with a scraper and it worked just fine. However, there is no way to use a
scraper on the edge...as the previous poster mentioned.
<Greg G.> wrote in message
You got it. Try the mist of water and try a light pass . Also try to reverse
the board direction.You could also just rip the board and try the joint out.
Or use a sanding disk in the tablesaw and take a LIGHT pass.
first, with a spray bottle of water, I get much better results.
I know that you said that you are taking only a light cut, but to be sure
zero out the knives and then back off just a little.
Put the *other* end of the board through the jointer. One way is
always better than the other. (Easier to show than to describe.)
Taking a light cut as you did helps too. Inspect the blades under
sunlight and magnification.
I encountered the same problem with a bed that I made recently. The
most beautiful curly-stripped-quilted flamed maple ever. My jointer
kept tearing out.
First when I re-sawed the boards they curled up like water
skies. I just about lost it, thinking that the project was doomed and
knowing what the wife had paid for the lumber. I called my good friend
Dave Sochar at Acorn Woodworks and told him of my problem. He
recommended that I use a router and a 1/2" solid carbide spiral up cut
bit. Then I was able to "joint" the edges smooth for the glue up and
using biscuits and alternating the boards. This assisted with the
bowing and pulled the boards into place, hours later I had the flat
panels for the headboard. Working most figured woods is a challange,
but rewarding. Try your router for the edges.
Mike from American Sycamore
That was going to be my suggestion; a router with a spiral cutter and a
straight guide should do the trick, if the boards aren't more than a
couple inches thick. Otherwise a jointing jig for the tablesaw might be
After you joint them; run them through a well adjusted table saw (WW II or
equal blade) and you will be able to edge glue without problems. Just take
enough off with the table saw to get rid of the tear out.
email@example.com wrote in message wrote:
I find with my WWII the edge to be better than hand planing if I have
reversing grain on the piece I am planing (purpleheart currently). I
would think once you flatten the face with your hand plane and then
run the board through the TS you're good to go. Did you use some
short of those metal jointer clamps or make up a jig on your own?
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