Can someone explain to me in detail how to use jointer to make boards
straight? I have 6" stationary jointer that is setup right to my
knowledge: outfeed table is leveled with knives, infeed table is
slightly lower. What happens is after I run board through jointer
instead of staright edge I get more board material removed from board
front. After several passes the board tiltts more and more towards the
Check if the tables are co-planar. Raise the infeed table level with
the outfeed, make a set of masterbars and see if there's any deviation
along the front, back and diagonals of the tables. If that's not the
case, check your technique. Tom
If the outfeed is setup right, it could be that you press the board all
the time on the infeed table. Once your board lands on outfeed table,
you should concentrate on outfeed table more for pressing your board.
There was a nice article in Wood magazie about a year ago explaing how
to adjust the Joiner, I followed it and now I get strait board all the
time. If this dose not help, check the wood mag. it will help surely.
I had a similar problem with my jointer and checked to find that the tables
were coplanar. Turns out that a few thousandths count. The only way to
really insure the blades are the same height as the outfeed table is with a
dial indicator. I know, some people swear by the stick method. For me the
stick method said everything is fine, the dial indicator showed the blades
were high. When everything is just right you will feel the newly milled
stock kind of stick to the tables.
It is a matter for getting a feel for holding the board on the infeed
table without allowing it to move while feeding it through the blade.
If your piece is longer than the infeed table it can be a real pain.
Once the front edge is through the blade it is held securely to the
You may also be taking too much of a cut
If a board is severely out of line I would put it through the table saw
to establish an edge.
As you can see, you're not really quite clear in your statement of the
problem, thus the multitude of answers.
Equipment faults lead to consistent results, and point to a remedy. If you
are cutting a wedge-shaped board with the leading edge narrower than the
trailing, the outfeed table may be drooping. If the table were planar but
low versus drooping, you'd get a snipe on the trailing edge
If the outfeed were high, the trailing edge would be narrower. This
technique is used to make tapers on the jointer. You'd also feel the
leading edge touching the edge of the outfeed table even after passing over
the knives - something which should never happen.
Now allow me a third possibility. Sight the edge of your board. Is it
bowed outward? on such boards it's a common error to hold the leading edge
down tight to the outfeed table, as you should, allowing the rear to hang
into the air. On such boards the best is to approach as if you were cutting
a taper, moving the guard aside and placing the belly of the board on the
infeed table, feeding across the high spot and lifting. Sight, reverse, do
again until the board is mostly straight, then run in its entirety. Of
course, you would be able to feed other boards to get a straight edge if
this were your only problem.
BTW, though a lot of people talk about the importance of long outfeed and
the danger of drooping outfeed, good technique suggests that the freshest
planed six to eight inches of the board are the only reference you want on
the outfeed. Either feed past your hand as it gives constant downward
pressure - risking splinters or edge cuts - or feed, remove, and replace
your hand to ensure this contact area is firm. That minimizes or eliminates
a lot of problems, and is the only technique worth using to get a belly off
the board or lower two high ends on the other side.
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