Jointer technique tip/observation

[Stephen M]

I was recently edge jointing some stoc about 5-6' long for glue-up. (I find that this is approaching the capacity of my jointer with a combined bed length of 42". I wasn't paying close enough attenting to my technique and I ended up with a few convex edges. I knew that it was technique and not setup because some of the edges were perfect.

I found that it took several passes on the jointer, carefully watching technique to "fix" the convex edge.

I found it easier (fewer passes) to recover from a concave edge than a convex one.

So, to "fix" a convex edge, I made one pass on the jointer, dropping the stock onto the cutters 6 inches into the cut and lifting it off 6 inches before the end, creating a sort-of concavity. One more regular pass and everything was just right.

Is this an old trick that I just discovered?

[Daniel H]

It might be.

It's often said it's easier to flatten a slightly-hollow-ground chisel back (or face) than one that's slightly convex, because a concave one won't rock on the surface of a flat sharpening stone.

- Daniel

[George]

It's got a _loooooong_ gray beard. Any standard woodworking text will have it.

Note that you can do the same on the face, or take a two-lumper flat, too. It's the way things are done with a hand plane.

[bridger]

yep.