Jet Bandsaw Diagnostic Help Needed

I have a Jet 18" bandsaw with a 1 1/2 hp motor. The motor is wired for 220v. It starts and runs, but placing even the slightest load on it slows it down dramatically, then blows the breaker. This is a brand new behavior. When I turn the blade by hand, it moves smoothly and easily. I'm going to try another blade in case this one is dull, but haven't yet.
Any suggestions?
Thanks, Doug
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Douglas Johnson wrote:

If the blade doesn't help I'd try changing the breaker.
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Jack Novak

Buffalo, NY - USA
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It sounds like a problem I'm having with my drill press. From what little I know about electric motors, it's probably a start/run capacitor. I doubt it's the blade, though.
Kevin
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Could be. Or you might have lost a leg (from 240, and only have 120). That could be in your house wiring, in your motor, or most likely the jumpers that switch the BS to 240. GerryG
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Hi Kevin,
I doubt it's the start capacitor. If it were a faulty start capacitor the motor probably wouldn't even turn over, especially given the initial load a BS motor must overcome.
Layne
On Thu, 19 Aug 2004 15:50:15 -0400, "Kevin Singleton"

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More likely a run capacitor, but they're sometimes in the same package.
Kevin
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It was the capacitor. I replaced it and the bandsaw is back to its old self. It only cost $8 from an electric motor shop, so it may be easier to just to try a new one instead of diagnosising the old one. -- Doug
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sound like only one 120 leg is working to me also, grab the voltmeter and check the outlet.. By the way, when you switched it to 220 did it perform better? I have the 18" jet also, (still on 115v). Love the saw, just a little underpowered. Just wondering if the switch to 220 would help with this.

220v.
down
I
another
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wrote:

Switching to 220 "probably" wouldn't make much difference in the observed power output. But it depends on the overall electrical configuration of the installation. Running at 220 would cut the amperage draw in half. That would reduce the voltage loss (drop) through the service wiring by half. If a significant voltage drop were causing the power loss, running 220 would show improvement. There would be improvement with 220, it just might not be enough to be noticeable.
I run everything possible in my shop at 220 to try to keep the amperage as low as possible. I have a 60 amp tap off the service entrance to power the shop at the end of almost 200 feet of feeder cable. At 110 with lights, air conditioner (Kansas summers can be brutally hot), dust collector, etc., it's pretty easy to use up 60 amps in a hurry.
Anybody know a source for 220v light bulbs? The local Borg clones look at me like I've got a loose screw when I ask them. I can't seem to find any 'murrican sources in all the Euopean results I get from Google.
Tom Veatch Wichita, KS USA
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Any _industrial_ lighting supply house will be able to get them. "Let your fingers to the walking" applies. <grin>
Be advised that for the larger wattages (100+), 'mogul' base is common.
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I never ran it on 115, switched to 220 before I plugged it in for the first time. Like one of the posters, I run everything I can on 220. I don't expect any real difference in tool power, but they do seem to start a little quicker with less fuss.
The puzzle about a single 120 leg being blown is how the saw would run at all. There is no neutral in the circuit, just a safety ground. Unless there is something dangerously wrong with the saw wiring... Hmm, I better check it. Thanks all, Doug
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Always go with the cheapest alternative when diagnosing a problem. Changing the blade might be it, though I doubt it but it wouldn't hurt. By "slightest load" do you mean resawing or cutting 3/4" stock? Resawing puts quite a load on the motor.
My humble guess is that it's the motor not the house wiring. Check the wiring on the motor. If it looks okay take the motor off and take it to a electric motor repair person to get it diagnosed.
Layne
On Thu, 19 Aug 2004 16:36:22 GMT, Douglas Johnson

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Layne <> wrote:

Cutting 3/4" stock.

The capacitor has died. I'll get it replaced and see what happens.
-- Doug
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How did you determine that the capacitor is faulty? I need to check on my drill press, and I'd like to know how it's done.
Thanks.
Kevin
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It was real easy. It had a hole melted into it. <grin> -- Doug
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Ha! Maybe I'll be that lucky, too!
Kevin
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"Douglas Johnson" < snipped-for-privacy@classtech.NOTPARTOFADDRESS.com> wrote in message
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