how to cut a groove around a dowel?


I want to cut a 1/8" deep, 3/4" wide (long) groove around a 3/4" dowel. I have a TS and a BS, as well as a basic set of chisels, but not a lathe. I am looking for advice for an effective AND safe way to do this. TIA. -- Igor
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igor (in snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com) said:
| I want to cut a 1/8" deep, 3/4" wide (long) groove around a 3/4" | dowel. I have a TS and a BS, as well as a basic set of chisels, | but not a lathe. I am looking for advice for an effective AND safe | way to do this. TIA. -- Igor
Do you have a drill press?
-- Morris Dovey DeSoto Solar DeSoto, Iowa USA http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/solar.html
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said:

That took my answer.
If not a drill clamped down.
Chris
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wrote:

Yes, I do.
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igor (in snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com) said:
| On Sun, 25 Sep 2005 13:14:02 -0500, "Morris Dovey"
| || igor (in snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com) said: || ||| I want to cut a 1/8" deep, 3/4" wide (long) groove around a 3/4" ||| dowel. I have a TS and a BS, as well as a basic set of chisels, ||| but not a lathe. I am looking for advice for an effective AND ||| safe way to do this. TIA. -- Igor || || Do you have a drill press? | | Yes, I do.
Hot melt glue a short piece of smaller dowel to the end of your 3/4" dowel, chuck the small dowel in the drill press, and use a small rasp/sanding block to cut your groove. Use heat to remove the short dowel when you're done.
This isn't really an elegant approach, but a drill press can serve as a "poor man's lathe" for jobs like this where there isn't any appreciable side loading. A bit of care in joining the two dowels can help to minimize off-center wobble.
-- Morris Dovey DeSoto Solar DeSoto, Iowa USA http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/solar.html
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wrote:

Clever. Maybe a hanger bolt would also work. In either case, I can use the drill press vise as a rest for the rasp. Thanks. -- Igor
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I would use a router table, though I would use really small cuts to prevent it from becoming a missle.
A drill press (with what, a file?) might work if your dowel was short enough.
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Drill a hole in a large square block of wood to fit the dowel. Insert, and use the wood block as the guide against the miter guage to run it over the raised [just enough] table saw blade so as to take a cut out of both. You'll need a block on the table as a guide if the cut is well along the dowel. Otherwise drill the hole just deep enough. Rotate the dowel in the hole as you are cutting. not the best, but relatively safe and will do the job. Measure on the outside of the dowel to move in and out to cover the 3/4" width.
You might have ot experiment with the first cut, raising the blade slowly after checking each cut to get the right depth.
When finished, count your fingers and get a lathe.
Alternative... do you have a router/table?
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Close to what I was going to suggest. I'd forgo the wood block though. Simply lay the dowel in the front of the miter gauge and pass it over the blade, rotate it at the high point of the blade. Of course, it does depend on how long the dowel is. Too short and this idea doesn't work.
--

-Mike-
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Mike Marlow wrote:

Just do it on the dowel before cutting it to length...
I'd use a guide block though simply to make it simpler to keep from moving at an angle away from the face of the miter gauge...probably simpler than the above would be simply a tubafore w/ a 45 whacked off one side clamped against the gauge for the dowel to sit in....
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On Sun, 25 Sep 2005 15:20:25 -0400, "Mike Marlow"

I'd thought about that unadorned approach -- just wondering what could turn the dowel into a missile or otherwise move it dangerously. That's why I posted.
And NO, I will not use the fence AND the miter guage -- though I think using the miter guage stop would help. Thanks. -- Igor
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On Sun, 25 Sep 2005 21:04:05 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm, igor

Build a jig for your router and make it in that.
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You can drill a 3/4 hole through some plywood glued up to 5 or 6 inches thick and drill a hole through the edge at right angles to the dowel. Use a template guide on the router and insert it through the hole. Plunge the router and turn the dowel with a clamp to route the groove. You can add stops to the dowel so you get the correct width of groove.
max

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Centered 1/4" hanger bolt used as a a center, chuck it in your DP (slow speed here in case off-center), file rasp or even a carefully wielded chisel or knife.
I've done it with 1/2" that I could chuck directly, so you just need a center.
Regards.
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Quick and easy with a router table
John

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