Anybody know of a good, safe way to cut a 15 degree bevel on the end of
a small (3" x 6") piece of 5/4 curly maple? In other words I
need to have the piece resting on the end grain with the 6" vertical,
and then run it over a left tilt blade set to 15 degrees. I'm
thinking I can make a jig that straddles my fence, clamp it to that and
do it. Seems fine on the surface, but with something like this I like
to check others to see if I'm missing something with regards to
safety or accuracy. This is for the top of a small box I am giving as
I don't have a router bit to do this, and can't get one at the
moment, so that isn't an option.
Thanks for any advice.
Why not hot glue it to the side of a big block of wood. It'll give you much
more to hang onto while passing it over the saw and it'll hold it in a
perfect vertical position. A sharp rap with a dead blow hammer will break
the hot melt glue joint after you make the cut.
"jtpr" < firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote in message
That's the perfect use for a tenoning jig. What you're describing doing is
just a home made tenoning jig. Just make sure your piece is clamped well to
your jig. Think every shop should have one of these whether it's a store
bought Delta or a homemade. Just about every wood magazine has had some sort
of design for a home built tenoning jig over the years.
Maybe like this one: http://www.woodsmithstore.com/tenjigharkit.html
My 2 cents
Gary in KC
Look at the spline cutting jig, used for cutting the slot for splines in
mitered joints, on my website, Jigs and Fixtures page, then remove the part
that holds the mitered parts. Should take you ten minutes, and some scrap
plywood, to build the versatile little jig.
There is a tool available for this sort of problem. It is inexpensive, very
versatile, leaves a wonderful surface but it takes a little patience and
practise to use well. Thats probably why no one would even think of using a
PLANE. Two marking guage lines, a few swipes with a sharp plane and thats
it. Please don't tell me your curly maple cannot be planed. Its just a
matter of a sharp blade and a small (see through) chip. Router bit.....what
is the world coming to?
Or possibly the "when you get your first hammer everything looks like a
nail' syndrome? ;)
A couple of obvious points that seems to have gone over some heads:
It's a sure bet that if the OP was proficient in the use of planes, and
owned the best plane for that job, he would not have asked that particular
question in the first place.
And heading him in the direction of utilizing a tool he specifically stated
he did have would better serve his request.
Start with a relatively much larger piece and cut the bevel first.
Then cut the rectangle. So, you wind up with some scrap ...don't we
all? If concerned with cost of wood, make only a little longer, and
screw it to a larger block of scrap, and again cut the bevel, then
finish the recatangle. You'll have only a little loss from wood
Buy a tenon cutting jig. They are perfect for this job and you can set
several compound angles very accurately with a sine bar setup.
or . . . Make your own tenon cutting jig from wood. My old homemade one
still has application for some projects.
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