How to attach book case to base cabinet top

I have built and installed floor cabinets with a nicely finished quartersawn oak top. Now I am ready to install bookcases on top of them. The cases will be anchored to the wall but I'd also like to secure the vertical sides of the bookcase to the oak cabinet top. The cases are painted plywood (to match existing built-ins) so, if necessary, holes can be filled and painted over. Pocket screws through the sides down into the top? Biscuits? Other? Thanks!
Kevin
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On Feb 28, 9:02 am, snipped-for-privacy@email.unc.edu wrote:

screws up from beneath?
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You painted quartersawn oak ???
You can use pocket holes screws but I would lean more toward the back of the bookcase if at possible.
Maybe a couple of short strips attached to the lower unit that slip up over the back of the bookcase.
Think "straps" on both side of back.
Try to place a screw on both the bottom and top units.
Do that on both sides and the bookcase should stay in place.
If this bookcase ends up being really high on the wall like 7' or 8', I would also put a screw-in cleat at the top that attaches to wall.
snipped-for-privacy@email.unc.edu wrote:

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That's worthy of expulsion from here.
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You read much?

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Unlike some, I believe that I note that you did NOT say that you painted the "nicely finished QSWO top. ;)
Not being able to see, except in my mind's eye, your project, I would say that a nice QSWO trim would be a good way to make the transition between the "nicely finished QSWO top", and the painted bookcases on top, and would also act to fasten the case to the top.
If I read you correctly, and because you have the bookcases solidly anchored to the wall, you likely don't need much "fastener" strength for your application and fastening the trim pieces with a brad/pin nailer would probably give you the strength you need, as well as allow for the small amount of cross grain movement of the QSWO top.
HTH ...
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I PAINTED the QSWO top??? Oh no!! Lemme go look....whew! nope, just a gorgeous Stckley-esque finish, courtesy of Jeff Jewitt's website instructions! :-)

Excellent suggestion! So, to allow for wood movement, nail the trim to the top, but not the case? Or are the brads (e.g. 18 ga) "flexy" enough that nailing to both will still allow for differential movement?
Thanks!
Kevin
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The brads/pins will be flexible enough for you not to have to worry about it.
QSWO is fairly stable across grain. AAMOF, you will often notice more movement in thickness than in width on the narrower pieces of a glue-up.
IIRC, the "movement value" for QS white oak is around ".0016" in the calculations in the following:
http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/fplgtr/fplgtr113/ch12.pdf
... nice reference for calculating wood movement based on differential in RH/moisture content.
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I used a square bar of Ash which I screwed to both top and base. It has lasted for about 30 years now. I did use my router to add a little decoration to the bar.
I have a similar project under way, and I plan to use the same method.
Jim
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On 28 Feb 2007 08:02:08 -0800, snipped-for-privacy@email.unc.edu wrote:

I built a bookshelf that happens to be freestanding (if that matters) ontop of a dresser. I drilled 4 holes in the dresser top to accept brass shelf support ferules. There are 4 corresponding holes in the book shelf bottom to accept the shelf pins. The shelf just drops onto the dresser top with the pins in the brass ferules, keeping it from moving aound. Gravity keeps the shelf from floating away.
If one day the book shelf goes away, I won't have 4 ugly holes - I'll have 4 holes with brass inserts.
Shelf inserts and matching pins available at LeeValley.com.
Pete
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