On topic! I've had a Dust Collector from HF for a long time, complete with Wynn canister filter and homemade "cyclone" garbage can precollector. I turn it off with a Shop Fox, D3038 remote. Lately there have been increasing problems with turning the DC on and off, and today, the DC stopped working altogether. One problem is that the switch on the DC motor is now "loose". It doesn't toggle on and off anymore. Note that the switch has hardly ever been used to turn the DC on or off. Would I have damaged the switch with the Shop Fox D3038 remote or with my previous system with relay and microswitches on the dustgates?
Has anyone had any similar problem? I am going to order a replacement switch from HF, and hope that I will be able to fix this ...
All comments on this problem will be appreciated!!
You might consider ordering a universal remote control for total control and bypassing the switch on the DC altogether. Have the motor plug directly into the remote.
Not likely. Since it's physically loose, it's a mechanical problem. More likely it's HF junk and you saved it from an earlier death by *using* the remote switch.
I'd order a replacement but from somewhere else. As bad as HF stuff is, I
*really* don't trust their electrical stuff. UL, my ass.
When you do replace the switch, don't use it again. ;-) I have a Penn State DC. I don't think I've used the switch more than a half-dozen times. I use one of their RF remotes, instead (with a couple of transmitters). The power switch is left ON all the time.
Leon wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@giganews.com:
Thanks! I didn't think so either ...
The Shop Fox is I think pretty universal. It has an outlet that is governed by it, so I could open the switch and bypass it altogether? I like that idea.
Another question: There seems to be a large capacitor or so on the motor. Do I run a risk opening the switch, even if I have had it unplugged for a few hours?
I opened the switch. It's a double pole, single throw switch and one of the contacts was corroded with a "pile" of stuff on it, so the switch wouldn't stay closed. Must have been arcing every time it got power. My electrician friend said to just wirenut the wires and cover the opening. (I am using a remote switch gadget to turn the DC on and off)
Sounds like a plan. You might want to put a switch in the line (e.g. wall switch) in case a mouse gets in the system when you're not there. I never bothered but the DC is currently in my garage.
Did you test the Shop Fox? Mine died. Within the first week one of the remotes died. I had to return the whole shebang to get a replacement. Then After a few months the outlet plug on the Shop-Fox melted! I got a better one from Grainger and wired it in. Worked fine for a few months, then last week it just gave up the ghost.
" snipped-for-privacy@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:
OK. All done. Everything works. I took some pictures and will post them later. I hear you about the switch. Will take a hard look at that, especially since the DC is in the basement, right under the first floor powderroom, whose toilettank once cracked ... New toilet is in place ...
I'm with GW Ross too. I had the Long Range "remote switch" with wires and microswitches, but didn't like the continuing fiddling with the dustgate and the microswitches. So I went with the Shop Fox RF (?) remote system, but it isn't very well made and sometimes you have to keep pressing the on or off switch. Since I still haven't finalized the shop setup and the DC collection tubes, I'd like to hear from you guys what kind of remote you use (if any). Now I have to make dinner.
I have a vac with a Phil Thein type separator.. I plumbed all my small tools. I prefer the wired system to blast gates. I kept finding myself forgetting to open a gate and turning it on. Or forgetting to turn it on after opening the gate. Now I just pull the gate open and it turns on. I made my own switches.. using brass wipers and aluminum tape... works well.
I stopped using both my wireless remote control, and old style pull cord in cieling after building the wired system.
tiredofspam wrote in news:rNqdnSeio7r5AaTNnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@ptd.net:
That is the ideal situation. I should go back to that, but at the moment (semi)stationary tools are still not in their real final places. That makes wiring a bit tough. I still have the wired Long Ranger (110V version) to go back to.
That is very interesting. How did you do that? If someone with limited electrical experience can do it too, I might try. WOuld you care to explain more, please?
On Sat, 25 Aug 2012 15:44:04 -0600, Han wrote (in article ):
I've only ever used the 220V Long Ranger on my 2HP cyclone. Never any problems except 'pocket dialing' on occasion when I have it clipped to my pocket and bump into something.
I just finished swapping out the initial hard switch on the DC for a motor starter for the primary express purpose of adding an umbilical cord w/ a remote control station can just carry around.
In doing so, I had enough room in the starter box to move the motor start capacitor out of the little switch box on the machine and so still have just a single box there w/ local start/stop plus the remote that goes where ever I want it at the time...
The beauty of the magnetic starter is you can add an unlimited number of remote control stations simply w/ the cost of a much cheaper low-current wire run than any of the remotes and it's rock-solid reliable. Add a time delay relay in the off side at the controller and you can have the delayed-off as well.
Once I get the final location on the fixed equipment I'll add the DC and their control stations as a unit operation. Here's link to a handy set of logic diagrams to allow you to set up controls as desired...
You can use either a 2-wire or run 3-wire control for the remote station--see Fig 1 and 2 at the attached; I had an old start control on hand so went 3-wire here.
The setup is shown in Fig 10 (p 9) for a single-phase starter; the various remote options are shown in following pages using three-phase but for single phase just toss out L3. (All the starters I have are actually 3-phase because I found a whole passel of used Rockwell starters cheap taken from a bunch of old Rockwell-Delta planers at an auction so I bought a dozen of 'em for $20.)
The diagram for the setup here is Fig 14 (p 11) altho it'll look more like Fig 18 (p 13) eventually when go to the multiple start from single station(s)...
NB that the key to all this is the logic diagram -- "Start" are in parallel; "Stop" in series.
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