Ok, I did some checking and apparently ".156 on center." means the
trace in combination with a space is .156.
Therefore .078" is the actual size that my metal strips will have to
Staten Island, New York.
[ ... ]
I've been staying out of your threads for a while, because I was
working on getting carpel tunnel syndrome just from the typing to *you*.
But -- I feel that I *have* to speak up here.
*Don't* even consider using BeCu (Beryllium Copper) in your
apartment (which is where you were working last I knew), or even in a
normal shop without specialized air and coolant control.
BeCu can result in serious lung damage -- starting about ten
years or so after you work with it. Slitting saws would produce fine
particles which could become airborne. Even the zero-loss techniques
generate a bit of this. The Phosphor Bronze, however, is quite safe to
What is the minimum length which you need? With the slitting
saws (special milling cutters with spacers on an arbor), the best way
that I can think of is double sided tape holding it to a sacrificial
metal plate, and a stack of milling cutters on an arbor with spacers to
put them the right distance apart. You can't work with things as thin
as you want to use without some kind of control such as that from double
sided tape. The maximum length will be determined by the travel of the
horizontal mill's table. (And I personally don't think that you can get
even a small one upstairs to your apartment. The small Nichols
production mill which I have weighs about 1100 pounds, and needs three
However -- an earlier suggestion which you just tossed away
would really be the better way to do it.
Two shafts containing alternate small and large diameter disks
of hardened steel. The upper shaft will have the large disc where the
lower shaft has the small one and vice versa. The thickness of the
disks is the width which you wish for the metal strips. The two are
geared to rotate opposite directions, so they pull in on one side, and
press out on the other. This acts as a large number of scissors,
cutting the thin metal into many strips at once. I can tell you about
one on a small scale made to trim Kroy labels down to a desired width
from wider tape which is feed through the printing machine.
The one I have is rather old, so I don't know whether the model
number is still valid, but go to a quality graphic arts supply store and
look for a "Kroy Tape Trimmer" part number "1335000". It was made to
work with older Kroy machines, but I use it with an electronic label
maker from Kory.
This suggests that you design the strips to match the width of
standard milling cutters (the wheels which stack on arbors, not end
mills for a vertical mill). The cutters are expensive, and you'll have
to buy a number of them to stack on the arbor. The cutters are
available in a number of standard thicknesses, and better to get those
than to try to modify some to get a non-standard dimension.
They are available (for milling arbors) in a number of
thicknesses, including made of shim stock. Determine the needed
spacing, and find out what the minimum number of sheets of standard shim
stock thicknesses will be to build up the thickness you need. There are
punches to cut the OD and the ID with the keyway from shim stock of
What material are you planning to cut? If glass epoxy, you'll
need carbide to avoid needing to re-sharpen ever pass or two. Many
other plastics will last for a long time.
And since these cutters all need to be the same diameter for it
to work properly, don't expect to be able to sharpen them and keep such
consistency -- unless you also invest in a tool and cutter grinder, and
work on all of the cutters in a single batch.
Go to some web site like MSC and look for the prices of the
milling cutters and slitting saws. I forget what the width you wanted
is, but a 3/16" (0.1875") wide cutter costs $49.41 *each*, and 5/32"
(0.1563") cost $98.21 *each*.
The thinner slitting saws appear to be mostly carbide these
days, and go for well over $200.00 each.
It is not going to work well with material as thin as you plan,
unless you double-sided tape to a sacrificial plate for each run.
I'm dropping back out of the thread now.
Email: < email@example.com> | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
Sorry about that. I've read several books and most of the usuble
information I still know I got from you in those past thread, along
with many others I've seen you post in.
Thanks there was some disagreement in another thread when I mentioned
this and was told that "Beryllium Oxide" was the culprit. But I bought
some Easi-Air 7255 High Efficiency filters just in case. Nevertheless,
Phosphor-Bronze is what I'll stick to. Thanks again
Perhaps 3/4", but cutting the strips to length is the easy part. I
just have to turn the sheep or coil stock into strips first.
I copied your thoughts to go over again, but will try again to answer
everyone in one shot all the way down at the very bottom...
Ok, there are 28 traces on each side of this fingerboard which is
plugged into a JAMMA connector:
Glad someone pointed it to save me the trouble.
Anything containing Be is hazardous. If you cut your finger, easy with
thin newly cut strip, you require specialist treatment from your doctor
and it can take months to heal.
The company I used to work for, which did a small amount of work with
BeCu, (spring electrical contact fingers) had a special room and a
complete set of tools which could only be used in that room and only for
use with BeCu.
Even disposing of the waste was a PITA. It had to go back to the supplier
and special transport documentation was required.
You can purchase flat, square or shaped (profile) wire that has been
drawn or formed for you (in many materials):
If you can properly fixture the wires, you might be able to hot press
the wires in a thermoplastic or pot them using an epoxy compound.
While you obviously have a clear understanding of your finished work -
we do not share that advantage.
Instead of asking how to create a gang saw, it migh prove more helpful
to first try and share details of your objectives.
It is possible to create an "indexing jig (INCRA comes to mind) that
might allow for thirty repeated cuts.
But I would like to know the result you are trying to achieve e.g. a
1/4" thick sheet of plastic five inches square with 30 evenly-spaced
grooves each 1/64" deep and 1/64" wide centered on the material ETC.
ETC. How many peices you need to produce would also help
As to the metal strips, the length, width and thickness would help.
I have seen strips of brass, copper steel and aluminum at Ace and
(well-stocked) Hobby stores. It might well be true that teh company
that makes this material could supply you with a roll of material of
the desired width and thickness leaving you with only the grooving
If, I understand our goal/objective the grooves are but deep enough to
accommodate a thin sliver of metal (inlaid!?), I have seen small
cutter wheels (2 - 2.5" dia) that could be mounted on a keyed shaft in
such a way as to allow you a "ganged" saw without the "flexing" issues
suggested in anther's reply. And, a combination of indexing and fewer
(15?) cutting wheels that could allow you room to add a support arbor
in the center of the "gang" to reduce the potential of "flexing" still
While the $20,000 laser cutting setup is simply out of the question,
that forum might allow you to "meet" someone with that (or and even
"better" system willing to fabricate your part at a most reasonable
price - espeacially good option if its a "one off" or only a few are
Several people have tried to tell you cut the thin stuff with a
rolling shear or a tool like a Kett shear. A slitter would also
give you long controlled cuts. I don't know what PCB traces are,
so it leaves me a bit in the dark. Here is one that will cut 5/32
strips 4 at a time, depending on your material:
if your blades are set up really well, the same saw set up could
cut the groove and the inlays, but it will waste a lot of your PCB
The gang saw part sounds strange, but one idea that comes to mind
would be to use woodworking slot cutter router bit blades. There
is one listed at 5/32 = .15625.
I think most any other idea would require custom made blades to
get the width slot you seek. The next problem would be the
spacers, but standard washers come to mind to start. The shaft
and the driving motor are another matter. The proper size drill
rod sized to the slot cutter's bore might make an arbor. It would
need a stop collar and I would think you could cut threads for a
nut to pressure the blades. A pillow block at each end or even
the shaft mounted in hard wood blocks for experimenting might
work. As others have said, at some point there will be too much
flex in the shaft. Might be driven by pulley and small motor or
even run directly by router or drill. Just a few thoughts to get
you started. I assume you are talking about some shallow grooves.
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
Look at http://www.woodmastertools.com The planer\molder\sander is
also a gang saw.
I have an 18" unit with 7hp motor. I have run up to 7 blades cutting
pine and you don't even hear a difference in the motor sound when it
is cutting. You will likely need to make a custom attachment if you
need to get the blades closer than about 1 1\4". The blades slide on a
shaft and have a collar that is about 5/8" each side of the blade but
I have made custom attachments and just used thrust washers between
blades and you can get them as close as you want.
You can find these units used some times on craigs or eBay.
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