My next "design" calls for square legs 2 1/2" with a steeeeeeeeeeeeep taper
over their 35" length.
I'll be dipped in doo-doo if I can find 12/4 *anything* here in Denver.
Does anyone have a tip/tiplet for making these legs out of a something else?
I'm crappy @ veneering, so I'm unlikely to go there... When I glue together
4/4 stock or 8/4 stock the seam is very visible - and this table is going to
be in a prominent location, so I'm not thrilled about that either...
What do you guys do when you need something that works like 12/4 but can't
Or maybe I should just turn off the shop lights and go in to read the new
issue of FWW. <sigh>
there are a ton of mail-order wood suppliers (www.woodfinder.com) which will
I'm curious why you have such a tough time gluing up wood blocks. Do you
edge glue successfully? It shouldn't be any different. If you match the
grain carefully, you'll be fine.
I was in a similar situation and needed 3" square stock to use for some bed
posts (also tapered as in your case). I glued up 3 pieces of 1" or so thick
hard maple. The grain in hard maple (not figured) is pretty mild, so it
wasn't too tough to get a good match and the glue lines were nearly
At any rate, I'm sure you can find the wood online if you decide not to glue
You might check with Sears-Trostel in Fort Collins. I "think" I saw
12/4 material there recently, although I can't swear to it. See
http://www.sears-trostel.com/ for contact/location info.
This is a _very_ common problem when you work with quarter sawn white oak as
you simply won't find 12/4 stock because of the way it dries ... or doesn't
I have fabricated legs up to 4" out of 8/4 QSWO with careful matching of
grain. Except for the taper in your case, another method to consider might
be the old Stickley technique where each leg is made from four triangular
pieces glued together so that all four faces of the leg show the typical ray
flecks of QSWO.
With the radical taper, your best bet will likely be a glue-up with careful
matching of the grain, or back to the idea of a thicker veneer ... it can be
Not really more advantageous with regard to thickness than doing it out of
8/4 in the first place, IME. Actually, and in a pinch, I've ripped 8" wide
5/4 flatsawn stock into 1" wide pieces, turned the pieces 90 degrees on edge
and glued them back together, ending up with something that is now, for all
practical purposes, quartersawn.
The point is still the same, you must come up with a workaround since, like
the OP, you won't find 12/4 stock in that wood.
I already have 3" oak - both flat and quartered. There's no problem
in producing the stuff, although it does command top dollar,
especially the QS.
For squares, I can get sizes up to 3"x4" off the shelf and not pay too
much for it (3x4 is about twice the cube price I pay for 1" boards).
If I can cope with it still being rather green, I can have 12" square
and bigger from the timber framing guy, and it's even cheaper
(although if I'm buying by the truckload, I should hope so too)
White oak? I have never seen, or even heard of, there being 12/4 quartersawn
white oak anywhere in this part of the world, whatsoever.
It is just something you will not find for sale at any price. Lumber dealers
will tell you it is because they can't dry it at that thickness with any
degree of sucess. Granted, I've never tried to dry it myself, but that is
the story I've heard for the past 40 years or longer as to why you don't see
it for sale.
For a country without a lot of hardwood forest left, you do have some
beautiful wood available. AAMOF, from what I've seen, the mother lode of
seasoned QS white oak is still in the UK ... in furniture, churches,
museums, on walls, as wainscotting, ad infinitum. Besides the ubiquitous
"mahogany" of various species, you guys must have traded in it extensively
during colonial days.
We have zero hardwood forest available for cutting. There are only a
handful (literally - I could probably name them) hardwood forests
left, and these are strictly hands-off. There are, if anything, too
many softwood forests around - these are rigid grid-planted
foreign-species softwood plantations, built post-war by the Forestry
Commission to keep us in pit-props during wartime. Fortunately they've
switched their planting strategy these days.
If you want oaks to fell, then it's nearly all singletons on farmland.
Maybe a few small stands of trees, but there really isn't an "oak
forest" you could go and take a chainsaw to. Beech woodland and ash
coppice is still rather more common.
Most of our oak these days is French though. I don't know where or
why, but the French seem to be clear-cutting the stuff like crazy.
We also have imported American oak - white, and a bit of red. I
suspect we're just getting the low-grade stuff though.
For finished work, then quite possibly so. Oak really is "the English
timber". If you ever get the chance, visit a house like Rufford Hall,
Moreton, or Bristol's Red Lodge. A timber framed house in oak,
panelled throughout in oak and furnished in oak.
Wainscotting was never oak. Panelling - often linenfold carved for the
best work - was in oak, but the notion of "wainscotting" really marks
the end of the "age of oak". It was made in deal softwood, as part of
a major shift in interior decorating styles (I'd suggest James Ayres
"Domestic Interiors" for an excellent history of such things)
I don't think we ever traded oak too much - we've always been
importers of timber, rather than exporters. It was Nelson's Navy who
used most of it, but we didn't sell the stuff.
In my nearby city of Bath there's a visible shift from the rustic
poverty of the 17th century to the glories of Wood's 18th century
expansion as the luxurious and fashionable resort of Jane Austen. Fine
streets of buildings in the classical tradition, furnished with the
best of mahogany furniture from the West Indies' timber.
My own city of Bristol had much of its harbour trade in softwood
timber from the Baltic coast. Climb into the attic of a Bristol house
and you can see the difference - timber was cheap locally, and roof
timbers are noticeably more generous than in other towns. At the turn
of the century parts of the harbour were filled with "onkers", retired
tea clippers reduced to working out their last days importing timber.
It's no accident that Plimsoll developed his Plimsoll loading line in
Bristol, and its different marks for fresh and salt water because of
this Baltic trade. Some were reckoned to only be safely afloat when
filled with buoyant timber ! They take their name of "onker" from the
windmill-driven pumps they carried to deal with the leakage.
Somebody did a magazine article on this. While I remember reading it in
the last six months, there is no telling when it was published. Woodsmith,
That's the problem with having access to a great library. ;-)
On Wed, 10 Nov 2004 22:00:30 GMT, "patrick conroy"
What timber ? Are you chasing quartersawn figure ?
Laminate them. A good glue line should be invisible.
Laminate them. Do it symmetrically and reed either down the glue line,
or on either side of it.
Build the leg out of four sides and a lock mitre joint. This is how
L&JG Stickley used to do it to put quaertersawn on all four sides. It
_ought_ to work on a taper too, if you shim the stock as it goes
through the moulder -- I'd run a test piece first.
Cherry or mahogany is at the top of the list... Nope.
<sigh> :) Thanks... Another technique I need to work at. My last
lamination was pretty "sucky"... I think the seam was tight, but the two
boards were different enough to make the technique quite apparent.
Since you did not list a wood type: HD has 4" fence post that will plane
down nicely to 12/4.
I normally glue up 8/4 and then plane to size; no problem with seams
If you can give a little on the size; Austin Hardwoods does stock some 10/4
10/4 would be fine. I'd go back to 2". I was just there @ Austin and didn't
see anything. In fact, almost everythign was 4/4. Maybe I'm not looking in
the right warehouse???
I stopped at Centennial and they had good prices on 8/4.
Paxton had some 12/4 Cherry today but the selection was pretty limited at it
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