I am building a gun cabinet and I have a couple questions.
The method, I want to use, to display my hand guns, is to have rods or
dowels that I could slide the barrel of the hand gun onto, suspending the
gun by the barrel.
What material should I use for the dowels? Can wood hold enough moisture to
rust the inside of the barrel, or would some type of plastic be a better
Now, I know we are all wood workers and not gun smiths, however, does any
one know if suspending a gun in this manner will do any damage to the gun?
I agree I would not use oak because of the acid in oak and it's
interaction with metal. good dry hard maple or birch would be my choice,
even basswood while not being the strongest would more than likely do
well for the job, after all how heavy could a hand gun be?
I would strongly resist using wood in the barrel. I would go with plastic.
Wood could expand with temperature changes, cause rust with a moisture or
natural content release.
Perhaps, use a cleaning rod/brush in the correct caliber to firmly hold the
gun in place.
1. What you're suggesting works fine. Most of my 20 odd handguns are
stored that way. Rusting has never been an issue.
2. I suggest you avoid oak dowels. Birch is better (tannic acid is
heavy in oak).
3. I finished mine with poly for abrasion resistance. The lands in a
rifled barrel are supposed to have sharp edges!
4. Give yourself some room. What you don't want is a tight fit of the
dowel in the barrel. 1/4 dowel in a .38 barrel is about right. I
haven't found wood dowels to work for .22s, so I use cut off pieces of
cleaning rod for them.
5. Weight should be an issue with MOST handguns, but I did go up to
3/8 dowel for my FA .454 Casul and a couple of Contenders..
I'm only an amateur gunsmith (i.e. I don't get paid for it). See
for an eample of my work.
Nice looking stock. I've always wanted to try making a custom stock,
but the cost of nice stock wood has put me off.
"We need to make a sacrifice to the gods, find me a young virgin... oh, and
bring something to kill"
The blank can a bit costly (I paid about $250 for that one), but the
results can be unique. That stock fits my skinny face like a glove.
The big scope required a high mount, so the high comb was necessary if
I wanted a normal cheek weld. You can't buy the fit, you've gotta make
The barrel is a Douglass, the action a Rem 700 lapped and polished -
smooth as glass. The trigger is a Timmney, no more need be said, and
breaks at 1.75#. It shoots to .5 off a lead sled (I can't hold that
tight by hand).
Sweet. I'm in the process of trying to sort out some stock/bedding
issues on an old Parker-Hale 22/250 I just got. Terrible vertical
stringing. I have a Timmney trigger in the plans for it as well if I
can get it grouping better.
Definition of a teenager: God's punishment for enjoying sex.
22/250 is famous for eating barrels. You say it's old. PH makes good
barrels (or did), but. You've probably already done so, but take a
GOOD look at the lands. It's bore scope time - before time and money
are spent trying to fix the irreparable.
If it's only stringing vertically, try increasing the pressure on the
front end of the barrel. I've used something as simple as a piece of
card stock in the muzzle end of the barrel channel to see if
additional (or any) pressure out there helps. If it does, you can
build up a pressure point with epoxy, bed the barrel it, and away you
I always do that first, because rebedding the action to the forcing
cone may not do squat if the barrel is whipping around forward of
On Tue, 10 Jun 2008 10:16:40 -0700, Tim Douglass
Thanks for the input on that, Tom. The rifle is oldish (1976) but has
probably not had more than a couple hundred shots through it. I put 50
or so through it a couple weeks ago trying to get it sorted out and
they pretty much doubled the wear showing on the feed ramp and
My best results with it were two shots touching and a third about 4"
high. I think the first shot was always the high one. I tightened the
action screws and it changed to more of all three shots in a vertical
line. Unfortunately the wind came up at that point and all results
became pretty unreliable.
The barrel channel in the stock is odd. It is really set up for a
pressure-pad at the fore-end, but the channel doesn't match the barrel
contour well, so it is more like a V, with the barrel only touching at
the sides. My first thought was to free-float it, but it is a fairly
thin contour barrel, so maybe I'll do the pressure pad and see what
happens. This rifle is an indulgence because I have an identical one
in 30/06. I want the 22/250 to shoot well, but it is more about having
a matched set than a tack driver.
"I'm not exactly burned out, but I'm a little bit scorched and there's some
Tim, Tom, WTH. I've been called worse.
One of my old Army NCOs in 'Nam had a remarkable command of Anglo
Saxon venacular and was quite willing to use it on and to a young
"butter bar", appropriately prefixed and suffixed with the required
honorific - "sir". I learned a lot from that guy, some of which I'm
still able to use in impolite company. For the rest, he kept me and
most of my guys alive. That's a goodness.
Anyway Ron, thanks.
In some parts of the country wood & glass gun cases have disappeared from
stores because of safe storage laws, they are not considered secure enough
to prevent unauthorized access and/or theft of the weapons. Have you
checked the law in your area in that regard?
You know, I hadn't given a thought to the legality of a gun cabinet.
Living in Texas, I can't imagine anything to do with private ownership of
guns to be illegal...yet.
As far as theft goes, I know a gun cabinet is not very secure, however, I do
not have any irreplaceable firearms.
I just hope the thief steals the guns and doesn't damage the cabinet. It was
too much work to build.
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