I saw almost the same table at Joe's Crab Shack. I liked the simple design, thinking I'd build one for my deck. I kicked my self for not taking a picture with my cell, so I downloaded this one, as you did.
I've glued up a lot of table tops like this, and just glue and clamps needed.
When I first started woodworking one of the first things I made was a large work bench with a butcher block top. I ran splines in each board, and cut 1/4" plywood strips for the splines. Then I drilled holes every foot for 1/4" threaded rod. I didn't trust wood glue then, but quickly learned that was total over kill, glue really does work, and is all that's needed.
Yes, me too, with one variation. I number adjoining joints 1, 2, 3,
4... instead of up and down. When I joint, I always do even in, odd out. That way the boards can easily be re-assembled later the exact same way you laid them out for looks.
I already tilted the fence to give thin boards more glue surface. Found that was never really needed, but it works.
The complementary angles works; would think the angle required to make any percentage increase in area beyond the miniscule to cause a real tendency for the joints to want to move during glue up as to be a pit(proverbial)a(ppendage) unless use splines or similar for registration.
Jim, have you decided what fasteners you'll use, have you bought them, yet?
I might can save you a few dollars. I knew I had these, somewhere. Finally found them.
Don't know the price of Leon's suggested runnerduck.com attachment and the Knape & Vogt is $5.
I have half a case (about 500) each of these. I'll never use them all. I can mail you 25-35 of each, if you think these are appropriate for your application. On the "L" bracket, the longer leg is 1" and the shorter leg is 1/2".
ing for this project. Probably southern yellow pine.
oard ends. My plan is to either use biscuits or some kind of spline for gre ater strength and alignment. I'm not quite sure here so any input would be appreciated.
t or so. Probably overkill, but I do want this to last a long time.
Well, the project is moving along well, should be done and delivered this w eekend. Turns out the top is so ungodly heavy I don't think I need to atta ch it at all, just have guide boards that fit inside the frame. So the top finished great, the base, not so much. Not terrible considering it will b e a rustic look and may in fact be great once all together. That being sai d this is a picture that sort of shows my concern:
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The wood for the base is Doug Fir and I did use Charles Neil's prep before finishing with MinWax oil based stain. But it still has parts that look to me to be a lot lighter then others. In particular the cross pieces betwee n the legs on the bottom. The won't go darker even if I apply more stain. Maybe I'm being anal as I'm not used to this "rustic" look. I'm going to cover it all with a satin finish poly for protection, would it make sense t o maybe use a darker color polyshade on the light parts to blend them or wo n't that work? I think I'll put the whole thing together just to see how i t looks before I decide.
Oh,I thought this was cool, the cross piece in the bottom has pegs that com e out of the tenons, and the pieces with the mortises it goes through are o n aluminum guide pins in the legs so they come out as well. This way, with the top off, one could "walk" it through a narrow door.
The link in my original post contains all the pics so far. Thanks again fo r all the advice.
FWIW I try my hardest to not stain or change the color of wood. The wood you are working with tends to be difficult, in the best of circumstances, to cover evenly. Anyway stains tend to make a piece look a consistent color throughout and typically hides the beauty of the wood. But some times the customer dictates the finish and this is what you have to contend with.
Where I am going with this is that the location of the pieces and their orientation have a lot to do with how lite or dark the wood appears and this is especially true with unstained woods. I have shown customers that the rail on a cabinet door looks lite while the stile made from the same board appears dark. Then that all changes to the opposite lite/dark appearance if I turn the door panel 90 degrees.
If your pieces seem to change shades from different viewing angles you can't prevent that.
ing for this project. Probably southern yellow pine.
oard ends. My plan is to either use biscuits or some kind of spline for gre ater strength and alignment. I'm not quite sure here so any input would be appreciated.
t or so. Probably overkill, but I do want this to last a long time.
Sonny, thank you.
Leon,I could not agree with you more, which is why I am not familiar with u sing stains, but the "customer" (son's new bride) wanted it dark, so here I am. Yeah some of the irregularities I can live with, it even looks intere sting. The main thing I don't like is the way the legs all seem to be 10 s hades lighter then the tops and bottoms. I have no idea why. If I apply m ore stain to just those sections and wipe it off after 15 min, they don't l ook much different. Sort of like they are saturated. I'm going to put po ly on them anyway, so I thought what if I used some of that shaded poly on just the light sections? Maybe just sand them again and re-try the stain? No idea. Hope it isn't so apparent once it's all together
f that shaded poly on just the light sections? Maybe just sand them again and re-try the stain?
I would not try the staining again. I'd go with toning the finish/poly. Do some sample poly toning, first, over a stained sample piece, before com mitting to the project. If you are to apply 2 coats of finish, your tonin g may need to be darkened more, than if you apply 3 or more less-toned top coats.
*The table will be in Maine. Is that too far away for convenient later app lications? ....
Why do it now? The pic doesn't show the degree of difference you are speak ing of, so we can't see exactly how much difference there is. Why not leav e it as is, for now, if the difference isn't too terribly great. Let them live with it for a while. If, later, they decide (prefer) it should be da rker, then, later, it can be darkened. It'll be (*it may be) just as easy to darken it, later, .... to apply more toned coats, later,.... as it is t o darken, now.
I really like reclaimed wood. I'm excited for you, having done lots of reclaimed woodwork, myself.
Your previous link showed me only one pic. I didn't see any tab for accessing other pics on that link. I went to your original post (July 13th) to get the whole project.
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