You're welcome. I should add one more thing to clarify: thickness-plane the opposite face until you've removed about the same amount of material, *and* that face is straight and flat along its entire length. *Then* start alternating faces, etc. etc.
I don't own a machine shop either but I can, and do, turn out work that would make Lie-Neilson jealous. I don't own a jointer because I don't need one.
Okay Doug ... now you got me confused. Just exactly -what- was done to the 3rd face in S3S?
Bill
Not sure exactly what you mean by "to do otherwise". I don't have a jointer, for a combination of space and financial reasons, but have used rough stock plenty of times in the past. I'm just as careful as I can be about buying rough stock that is as flat as I can get it, and it generally comes out fine using only the planer.
If something is *really* warped, then I hand plane it first. I might get a jointer someday, but it's not high on the list of priorities. It's a machine that is fairly simple to work around, and not strictly necessary for all but the "very experienced".
That being said, if I ever happen to run across a large amount of rough-cut lumber for the right price, I am positive I'll change my tune pretty quickly. For now, buying S3S makes the jointer a little redundant.
Not the sole purpose- they can also rabbet edges, but so can other tools.
That's not terribly funny. It says more about your table saw use than CW's lack of a jointer, really. It's also ignoring the two major workarounds for edge jointing that anyone with a table saw or a router table can use. If you know those, it's not that tough to edge joint with a blade or straight bit- and it then *is* a matter of choice to either go straight from the saw to glue-up or to joint the edges first. It's a matter of confidence in your ability to accurately cut the material the first time. If you need to cut oversize then sneak up on the final dimension, there is nothing inherantly wrong with that- but it certainly does not give you an elevated place to stand where you can laugh at others.
Sure you can. Anyone who has worked in a wood shop, or even a decent construction outfit, is bound to have used more than a few tools they don't personally own. I've used a number of panel saws, for instance- but I couldn't justify the cost to buy one for at home. You can believe it or not, and I don't care which- but every shop I've worked in has had a jointer.... on a mobile base, and shoved into the corner where it sits untouched for years at a time. Don't get me wrong, they have their uses- but they're not as indispensible as you make them out to be.
Weren't you the guy using precision measurement tools to set up your saw? You should have a glue ready cut easily using a rig like that. No need to fix perfect, right?
It's been run through the equivalent of your shaper on the one edge. It's often done on the same machine while planing, so straight ahead is pretty much determined by the feed, not the fence. Edge saws probably make a straighter edge, at least initially, until the board begins to dry.
You must have missed the other 'jointer' thread where CW was busting on my 'inability' to go from the TS to glue up without first jointing.
I use mine on 'every' project. Before I bought one, sure I got by without it! Now, I can't see how I got by without it.
I like to lightly joint after ripping. So do 'many' others.
I have the same reasons. To get the cheapest 6" jointer, it will cost me about $2000 and many hours of labor.
For the most part, I'm able to buy wood that I can go right to the planer, or I have it jointed when I buy it. OTOH, I've seen some lower priced wood that has been air dried but would take a bit of fiddling around to use without a jointer.
Depends on what you mean by the "third face". :-)
S3S lumber has been:
1) planed on one face 2) flipped over and planed on the other face 3) straight-line ripped on one edge.Stop after step 2 and it's S2S.
At *no* point is a jointer involved.
You outline the standard approach nicely. The only tidbit is that, depending on wood species, it may be advisable to wait between the two passes -- it does help with the internal stresses but it also takes a while to get the humidity re-balanced. For table tops it really helps if the wood can sit in the conditions to which the final piece will be exposed. Taking the first face-joint pass off speeds the aclimatization. I have an uncle who has for many (30+) years sworn by keeping a small stickered pile of wood under his bed for just such uses. Such behavior may be correlated with his divorces.
hex
-30-
Huh? My 6" portable Delta does fine within the limits of its table size and if worse comes to worse it can be stood on end in a corner. If you can't get a jointer into your shop then I'm surprised that you can get a surface large enough to be able to use a jointer plane into it.
I don't want the portable if I do get one. There is no practical room for a stand model until I build a shed. As for using a jointer plane, that is what the bench is for.
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