Face jointing--who does it?

[ukalumni]

I was recently talking to a gentleman who teaches woodworking classes about face jointing, and he said that he hardly ever does it. He said if he were making a dining room table or something similar, he would face joint, but otherwise, he simply edge joints.

The lumber I typically use is 13/16" kiln dried random width cherry. The place where he works sells the same wood, so I'm assuming he's using what I'm using.

I recently built a shaker style sofa table, and I edge jointed, face jointed one side, and then planed it to a uniform thickness.

Can I omit the face jointing if I'm selecting pretty straight lumber?

[Swingman]

That depends upon your definition of "pretty straight" and whether it suits the needs of your project ... if you don't need to, don't.

[Steve Manes]

If it doesn't need it, sure. I usually run lumber for lamination glue-ups through the planer just to ensure they're all the same thickness. That's usually enough to remove any cupping as well.

------------------------------------------=o&>o---- Steve Manes, Brooklyn, USA

[Stephen M]

For the record, I do, but I use mostly rough-cut stock.

You should really face, then edge joint to ensure that ht edge is at 90 degrees to the face. The reverse does not work because the edge is not a big enough reference surface

probably... it depends.

What's the big deal? You're already at the jointer. If it's a close to straight board, it will take only 2 or 3 passes to go from rough to reference surface which will probably save you a pass at the planer.

Having reread the original post, you are using 13/16 stock.... that suggests S2S or S3S stock. That implies that it already has been face jointed by your supplier. Has the wood moved since then? Maybe; probably not much.

-Steve

[CW]

[Doug Miller]

Wrong order. Face joint first, then edge joint.

Depends on your standards. If you want straight lumber, then joint it. If you're satisfied with "pretty straight", then don't bother.

[DJ Delorie]

I'm pretty sure you're not selecting straight lumber. And even if it looks straight at the store, it's not going to be straight in your shop. For table tops, I always buy rough stock and face joint it so I know it's as flat as I can get it, and usually in two steps in case there's internal tension. I.e. face it mostly, plane it mostly, let it rest. Then face it the rest of the way, thickness it, and use it.

For reference, the sequence is: face joint, thickness plane, edge joint, rip to width. Don't edge first.

[ukalumni]

Thanks for the replies as well as the pointers about the order of jointing.

[Jay Pique]

[Stoutman]

Why don't you just put your jointer on e-bay right now?

[sailor]

cuts? Joint 1 side, flip the boaard over, and joint other side. I read that this should be done so the wood dries out evenly, and less likly to twist, cup, etc. What say about this? I have a lot to learn, and have learned much from this group. Thanks to all.

Cliff

[George]

One face is good. You'll be equalizing the passes on the other side when you get to the planer. Good lumber doesn't normally get more than a look, and to the planer stack. Glueups don't require the same straight stock that door frames do. Where it counts, face for a reference and go to the planer.

[Swingman]

In order for a jointer to be used properly you need to use it in conjunction with a planer unless you have a very specific reason for doing otherwise, and only then with a good deal of care and experience, and on a well setup machine.

To properly "dimension" the stock (thickness in the case of jointing a face), do not joint both faces.

If you try to joint both faces, it is _highly_ likely that you will introduce a *taper* into your stock, and it will likely get worse the more passes you make.

The best way, particularly for the inexperienced, is to "Joint" one face flat, then flip it and "Plane" the opposite face parallel to the now flat, newly "jointed" face.

The jointer and planer, used together in the proper order, will insure that your stock is of even thickness and the faces are parallel throughout its length and width.

To do otherwise is best left to very experienced hands and special circumstances.

[CW]

There would be no point. The sole purpose in life of a jointer is to produce a strait edge. It is a prep machine for other machines. That's it. Never could see owning one myself for as little as it does.

[Swingman]

As mean a SOB as you are, I'd sworn you had one just to shave with!

;)

[CW]

That's what the drawknife is for. :)

[Doug Miller]

It implies no such thing. S2S or S3S lumber has been *planed* on both faces. It has *not* been jointed.

[Doug Miller]

No. Joint one side, then *plane* the other. *After* you're finished jointing.

You have the right idea, but I think you've misunderstood the process for getting there. You're right that wood should be removed in approximately equal amounts from each face, and for exactly the reason that you stated.

The purpose of face jointing is to make one face straight and flat. You

*cannot* make the second face straight, flat, *and* parallel to the first one with a jointer. That's what a thickness planer does.

Trying to do that with a jointer is pointless at best. At worst, you may ruin the board by tapering it too much.

So joint one face until it's flat. Then thickness-plane the opposite face until you've removed about the same amount of material. *Then* start alternating faces (by flipping the board end-for-end) as you continue to plane the board to final thickness.

[sailor]

Doug, Thanks a lot, that makes a lot of sense. Cliff

[Stoutman]

Ah, now I get it. You go straight from the TS to glue up, not by choice, but because you don't own a jointer!! LOL

New rule: You can't give advice on the use of a tool if you have never owned said tool.

The jointer is far from "a prep machine for other machines". I find it indispensable in my shop.