I was recently talking to a gentleman who teaches woodworking classes
about face jointing, and he said that he hardly ever does it. He said
if he were making a dining room table or something similar, he would
face joint, but otherwise, he simply edge joints.
The lumber I typically use is 13/16" kiln dried random width cherry.
The place where he works sells the same wood, so I'm assuming he's
using what I'm using.
I recently built a shaker style sofa table, and I edge jointed, face
jointed one side, and then planed it to a uniform thickness.
Can I omit the face jointing if I'm selecting pretty straight lumber?
On 16 Feb 2007 06:57:59 -0800, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
If it doesn't need it, sure. I usually run lumber for lamination
glue-ups through the planer just to ensure they're all the same
thickness. That's usually enough to remove any cupping as well.
Steve Manes, Brooklyn, USA
For the record, I do, but I use mostly rough-cut stock.
You should really face, then edge joint to ensure that ht edge is at 90
degrees to the face. The reverse does not work because the edge is not a big
enough reference surface
probably... it depends.
What's the big deal? You're already at the jointer. If it's a close to
straight board, it will take only 2 or 3 passes to go from rough to
reference surface which will probably save you a pass at the planer.
Having reread the original post, you are using 13/16 stock.... that suggests
S2S or S3S stock. That implies that it already has been face jointed by your
supplier. Has the wood moved since then? Maybe; probably not much.
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
When you are taking 2 or 3 passes on the jointer, do you alternate
cuts? Joint 1 side, flip the boaard over, and joint other side. I
read that this should be done so the wood dries out evenly, and less
likly to twist, cup, etc. What say about this? I have a lot to
learn, and have learned much from this group. Thanks to all.
One face is good. You'll be equalizing the passes on the other side when
you get to the planer. Good lumber doesn't normally get more than a look,
and to the planer stack. Glueups don't require the same straight stock that
door frames do. Where it counts, face for a reference and go to the planer.
In order for a jointer to be used properly you need to use it in conjunction
with a planer unless you have a very specific reason for doing otherwise,
and only then with a good deal of care and experience, and on a well setup
To properly "dimension" the stock (thickness in the case of jointing a
face), do not joint both faces.
If you try to joint both faces, it is _highly_ likely that you will
introduce a *taper* into your stock, and it will likely get worse the more
passes you make.
The best way, particularly for the inexperienced, is to "Joint" one face
flat, then flip it and "Plane" the opposite face parallel to the now flat,
newly "jointed" face.
The jointer and planer, used together in the proper order, will insure that
your stock is of even thickness and the faces are parallel throughout its
length and width.
To do otherwise is best left to very experienced hands and special
Not sure exactly what you mean by "to do otherwise". I don't have a
jointer, for a combination of space and financial reasons, but have
used rough stock plenty of times in the past. I'm just as careful as
I can be about buying rough stock that is as flat as I can get it, and
it generally comes out fine using only the planer.
If something is *really* warped, then I hand plane it first. I might
get a jointer someday, but it's not high on the list of priorities.
It's a machine that is fairly simple to work around, and not strictly
necessary for all but the "very experienced".
That being said, if I ever happen to run across a large amount of
rough-cut lumber for the right price, I am positive I'll change my
tune pretty quickly. For now, buying S3S makes the jointer a little
I have the same reasons. To get the cheapest 6" jointer, it will cost me
about $2000 and many hours of labor.
For the most part, I'm able to buy wood that I can go right to the planer,
or I have it jointed when I buy it. OTOH, I've seen some lower priced wood
that has been air dried but would take a bit of fiddling around to use
without a jointer.
Huh? My 6" portable Delta does fine within the limits of its table
size and if worse comes to worse it can be stood on end in a corner.
If you can't get a jointer into your shop then I'm surprised that you
can get a surface large enough to be able to use a jointer plane into
Ah, now I get it. You go straight from the TS to glue up, not by choice,
but because you don't own a jointer!! LOL
New rule: You can't give advice on the use of a tool if you have never
owned said tool.
The jointer is far from "a prep machine for other machines". I find it
indispensable in my shop.
Not the sole purpose- they can also rabbet edges, but so can other
That's not terribly funny. It says more about your table saw use than
CW's lack of a jointer, really. It's also ignoring the two major
workarounds for edge jointing that anyone with a table saw or a router
table can use. If you know those, it's not that tough to edge joint
with a blade or straight bit- and it then *is* a matter of choice to
either go straight from the saw to glue-up or to joint the edges
first. It's a matter of confidence in your ability to accurately cut
the material the first time. If you need to cut oversize then sneak
up on the final dimension, there is nothing inherantly wrong with
that- but it certainly does not give you an elevated place to stand
where you can laugh at others.
Sure you can. Anyone who has worked in a wood shop, or even a decent
construction outfit, is bound to have used more than a few tools they
don't personally own. I've used a number of panel saws, for instance-
but I couldn't justify the cost to buy one for at home. You can
believe it or not, and I don't care which- but every shop I've worked
in has had a jointer.... on a mobile base, and shoved into the corner
where it sits untouched for years at a time. Don't get me wrong,
they have their uses- but they're not as indispensible as you make
them out to be.
Weren't you the guy using precision measurement tools to set up your
saw? You should have a glue ready cut easily using a rig like that.
No need to fix perfect, right?
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.