Projects going out one door, and in another:
Bought the stock at lunch, dimensioned the stock and cut all the mortise and tenons this afternoon.
This little table is very familiar territory ... I keep being hired to repeat it to the point that it takes less time to fabricate one than it does to finish it.
The finish on this iteration of a walnut and cherry hall table is, as always, a hand-rubbed oil/poly/wax finish, a la Sam Maloof.
I dunno.... maybe you missed at least part of your calling. No kidding, but maybe you should think about (just saying, here...) setting up furniture shop where you teach how to do that kind of fine workmanship. I can actually see you teaching that kind of work if you had willing students, and where else in our part of the world would someone be able to learn those kinds of skills?
Robert
it takes less time to fabricate one than it
Amen to dat. I often make 3 or 4 of whatever I am building. Then I'll finis h one right away but the others always sit until I get inspired or have mor e time.
I guess if I was just spraying in a blow and go method maybe it would be ea sier but I labor over every piece during assembly doing methodical near fin al sanding. Then once assembled lots of hand prep work. Then usually hand a pplied rubbed\wiped finish of some sort which including any dying and waxin g might be 6 or 8 steps, ie 6 or 8 complete workovers of the entire surface of the piece.
First coat of that finish on the aprons and legs:
Very good, very good. The paint should stick well to that.
Yep, after a couple coats of BIN ... and that walnut faux grain paint should complete the picture as a sheer work of art, you reckon?
You could save a few steps and use this...
AAMOF, got some left over from those chairs I just 3D pri ... built.
So how does that stuff work for you, Sam Maloof finish?
As with most finishes that are rubbed on the first coat tends to be the easiest. The subsequent coats tend to be the ones that are hard to rub on evenly. I am finally mastering Old Masters gel varnish, local conditions really really apply as to whether you have to rub out a coat before proceeding to the next. The guide lines for doing so are specifically, Sometimes you do, Sometimes you don't.
The walnut is looking really good! Any Arkansas walnut mixed in?
Been using it for years (coffee table, lamp, lamp table, hall tables, end tables, hope chest ... have all been finished that type of finish ... basically anything made of walnut or cherry)... apply with a rag, wipe off with a rag ... only thing difficult about applying the finish is the time it takes ... each coat is 24 hours between.
The last coat is like applying a coat of wax in that you do have to put some elbow grease into buffing by hand ... but you can apparently get that by the truckload from ATOH. ;)
Four coats of the poly/oil, two coats of the poly/oil/wax ... six days added to the delivery time.
Yep, the frame for the inlay will be Uncle Tete's (RIP) AR walnut ...
Let me guess. Is the spare piece in the foreground with only one tenon used to "mask" the leg while you apply the finish?
Close ... it was there to use as an edge in helping to precisely tear off the tape that is indeed masking the mortises.
Works much better, and with no danger of scarring the stock, than a razor blade. ;)
I also left it there because it does show the contrast between the oil/poly application, and the unfinished wood.
IME, there is nothing like this type of finish for walnut, as years of gun stock makers, using similar products, will attest.
OK now I am confused. First 4 coats poly/oil, is that a different Sam Maloof product? What you rub off, is that simply excess, does it dry such that it may become difficult to wipe off should it not be wiped immediately.
Would I be correct in assuming that the poly/oil/wax rubbing by hand is similar to wiping off a wax haze?
Two different products:
To an extent ... no haze, but Sam was apparently noted as saying that he rubbed the poly/oil/wax product (usually used for the last two coats, but also great refresher coats each year) hard enough that the friction got the part hot.
Ok, I think I am up to speed now. ;~)
IIRC some of the hand rubbing/buffing was done literally with the bare hand, no rag, hence the hand feeling the heat.
I recall reading about Maloof's poly/oil mix in FWW about 30 years ago when I made a bedroom set out of padauk. IIRC, I used a mixture of about 60:40 oil to poly. Used 400 grit wet-dry paper between coats. What ratio do yo u use and can you report on the composition of the poly/oil/wax concoction? Also ... your thoughts on how this would work on hard maple.
Larry
made a bedroom set out of padauk. IIRC, I used a mixture of about 60:40 oil to poly. Used 400 grit wet-dry paper between coats. What ratio do you use and can you report on the composition of the poly/oil/wax concoction? Also ... your thoughts on how this would work on hard maple.
For your viewing pleasure, the formula straight from the mans mouth. Look at about 17.5 minutes into the interview. He gives a couple of formulas. The one I always remember is 1/3 varnish, 1/3 BLO, and 1/3 Tung Oil.
made a bedroom set out of padauk. IIRC, I used a mixture of about 60:40 oil to poly. Used 400 grit wet-dry paper between coats. What ratio do you use and can you report on the composition of the poly/oil/wax concoction? Also ... your thoughts on how this would work on hard maple.
Larry, in the interest of time, and the uncertainty of getting fresh materials to make it these days (and certainly not $$ because buying the stuff is expensive, but it goes a long way, and I'd rather not take the chance of any drying issues since I don't get paid until it's finished), I buy the "Sam Maloof Finish" from Rockler.
I've never used it on hard maple, but I'll tell you what I will do since I have to slather on some more today ... I have some hard maple scraps in the shop and will run a test for you over the next few days.
I would imagine that it will be an excellent, natural finish for maple, but stay tuned and I'll post you some photos ... you got me wondering in any event.
when I made a bedroom set out of padauk. IIRC, I used a mixture of about 6
0:40 oil to poly. Used 400 grit wet-dry paper between coats. What ratio d o you use and can you report on the composition of the poly/oil/wax concoct ion? Also ... your thoughts on how this would work on hard maple.Thanks, Karl. That will be very helpful!
Larry, as promised, this is just a progress report, not yet finished.
Photo shows four coats of the basic Sam Maloof finish on a hard maple test strip. (not much to see yet)
This would be the minimum number of coats of the basic product, which would be followed by at least two coats with the product that contains wax. These last coats are were you would get the most sheen.
Stay tuned ... I only have a cell phone to take photos these days, so I wanted to take it the sunlight, but alas, no sun yet today.
Will add a couple of more basic coats, then at least two of the final coats and report back here.
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