Thanks, Karl. My son wants this a tad darker to match/compliment other woodwork
in his dining room, so we'll need to start with a coat or two of Watco stain.
I've given up trying to convince him to keep it natural.
On Monday, April 1, 2013 11:41:49 AM UTC-5, Swingman wrote:
I'm having the opposite problem. The coffeetable I am making (very, very
slowly, but it is coming!) is too dark according to the boss. She'll
take however it comes out, but she'd like it lighter than it is. And I
must admit, that quartersawn oak now looks darker than I thought it
would. Is there a wau to make it lighter? I'm a little hesitant to
start experimenting with bleach ...
Is it just darker from exposure, or do you have something applied already?
If it is just exposure, hit it with some sandpaper and see if it lightens
up. Oak, particularly white oak, will darken just sitting around
Funny you should mention this, the desk top cherry is darkening pretty
quickly in the garage facing the morning sun. Another narrow piece that
was being facing north in the garage had a couple of pieces of masking
tape on it. This was being kept for shelves. In just over 4 weeks the
wood has darkened except where the masking tape was and it would not
sand out. ;~( Fortunately one would have to look for it to see it.
I have low-E glass in my windows so the cherry getting the morning sun
inside the house is not darkening so quickly.
Yes it has been laying around due to general inertia, whatever. I do
hope it'll get lighter upon final sanding, but I guess that I'll have to
finish the exposed parts then immediately ... I'm waiting for the Sam
Maloof finishes to arrive from Rockler (thanks, Karl, for the
recommendation and links!!). So, I'll be safe from having to work on it
for another day <grin>.
Love your work , and here I'm stuck with trying to figure my
girlfriend's smart hot water tank. The smart card says it's a bad
lower element, my Fluke meter says the element is fine, My guess is a
bad circuit board. But I love that table.
Took long enough ... finally delivered this today:
(there was certainly no danger of the Maloof finish not being cured by
As best I can tell, rec.woodworking tradition requires that someone stir
the pot by calling a classic design like that "soulless" or "derivative".
It'll have to be somebody else though. I'm hoping my own work gets to be
half as good as that someday; maybe good enough for someone to bother
insulting me too
I like this one a lot.
I've built a dozen or so similar "hall" tables for folks in the past, but
this one is my favorite so far of this particular style, due mainly to its
In this case the height, width and depth of the table, as well as the
amount of leg taper and inlay and spline material, was specified by the
customer, I simply built it to her spec.
So, the logical response to any such self styled critics you mention is
that when doing "custom" work, the CUSTOMer dictates the design ... IOW,
the only person who has to like it is the one who paid for it :)
I've been wondering about this for a while. Your table top consists (I
assume) of two pieces of 3/4" solid wood glued up as a panel, surrounded
by (two layers of) border.
I have considered trying to make something that is conceptually similar;
a table made of several slats of solid wood with some sort of border
around the edges. I have been advised against attaching an end piece to
cover the end grain of the main panel; expansion and contraction of the
panel boards will eventually break something, apparently.
But in this (very nice) piece, I see exactly that:
Is it the full (four-sided) border that makes this OK somehow? (as
opposed to just covering the two end-grain edges). Or does the addition
of splines in the corners strengthen the border enough to counteract the
movement of the panel pieces?
You do not want to frame a "solid wood" panel of any type in that manner.
You can get away with that type of framing in the photo when using a
veneered panel, made by gluing veneer on both sides of a dimensionally
stable substrate like MDF; or using some nicely figured plywood with the
veneer of your choice within the frame.
Because two sides of a "solid wood" framed panel are always going to be
"cross grain", you must make allowances for the inevitable cross grain
movement within any frame, like with a flat or raised panel door; or with
breadboard ends on the two cross grain ends on a table top, etc.
Also, be careful with the term "solid wood. In the commercial cabinet and
furniture industry, plywood is considered "solid wood".
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