Imagine the bit extends through the drill and out the back about 2'. The
closer you get this imaginary bit to vertical, the closer the real one
Watch the bit as it starts to cut. A properly sharp twist bit will
remove equal shavings from both sides. Forstners are a little easier, as
you can watch the hole as it forms and make sure it's a consistent depth
the whole way around.
The drill block someone suggested ealier isn't a bad idea. Once you get
the bit started straight, it's usually pretty easy to keep it straight.
Perfectly perpendicular may not be a necessity, the dogs just have to
not come out. So use a drill with the appropriate sized bit.
You could also drill a hole in a chunk of square cut 2x4 on the DP and
let it be your hand drill guide with use of a good bit.
You might also consider a high quality brad point bit vs a Forstner.
they work better in hand drills. Colt "5 Star" brad points are the
best I have ever used. Not cheap but worth the money.
Alternatively the appropriate bit in a plunge router. Use a clamped
straight edge for the x axis and use multiple exact size squares along
that straight edge to provide y axis spacing. Plunge/drill a hole,
remove a spacer and repeat until all the spacers have been removed.
not available at Woodcraft anymore and I haven't seen them anywhere
I was thinking about putting the router on a track then using a block
against a dog in the previous hole to get the spacing in the other
axis. As I mentioned above, I didn't find any bits big enough,
though. I'll look some more.
And just to be sure, Colt "5 Star"
May not help you now but maybe in the future.
FYI I had to have a 1/2" bit a few years ago and found it here.
But anyway I found this place that you might be interested in.. Not
sure what size you are looking for but you can get up to 1/2" and 16mm,
Still expensive but not a bad price singly.
Yes, they're "5 Star". I bought them a years ago at the suggestion of
several here. Every time we went to Atlanta, I picked up a few at
Woodcraft. Now that we live in Atlanta (sorta), they no longer carry
According to the Colt catalog <http://colt-tools.com/en/catalogue/ the
"5-Star" (aka HSS-FCE) don't come larger than 1/2 inch. For 3/4 it
looks like you need to go to the "TwinLand" bit, which, surprisingly,
can be had on Amazon for under 10 bucks.
Note that in 2013 they were bought out by a French outfit and the last
catalog published seems to be 2013, so the company may be gone now or
the products may be sold under a different brand.
The 5 Star does not come larger in Imperial, but does in metric, 16mm.
Still, if you need a 3/4" hole this is not going to be helpful.
I have not tried the Twinland bits, with the 5 Star it is all about the
cutting point/tip. In my 1/4" and larger bits I can drill a hole
through 3/4" thick oak, with out a backer board, and the hole on the
exit side is as crisp and clean at the entry hole.
While these bits are suppose to last for a very long time I reserve
their use for times I want perfection and when I know that there is
nothing hidden in the wood.
There are several places in the U.S. that sell the bits, The best of
Things, being one of them, in sets and individually. Also Infinity, AKA
Jesada/CMT of America, although they appear to only sell the small set
for about $80.
Indeed fewer places sell the 5 Star. Get'em while you can.
you may not like this answer but i have learned to rely on just winging it
the more you do it the better the outcome
blow a bunch of holes in some waste stock to get the feel of it than keep
that memory and do it on the real stock
Yeah, it weighs more than 250lbs (it was fun moving it to the attic in
our last house and even more fun down the stairs).
I'd forgotten that I have a little toy HF drill press around here
somewhere. It's worth a try.
I used a plunge router and 3/4" bit. Router was a Porter Cable 7539 3 HP p
lunge router. It plunges 3 inches. Bit was carbide. I went through about
3 inches of wood bench top. I plunged most of the way through and then st
opped. Lowered the bit in the clamp a little more then completed the full
plunge through the wood. Clamped the router to the bench top so it would n
ot move. Cannot recall how I made sure the holes were the same distance ap
art and lined up with the other side. Bench top has a line of holes along
On Mon, 17 Aug 2015 15:55:21 -0700 (PDT), " firstname.lastname@example.org"
That was my first thought. I never liked the idea of hand-holding a
3+ HP router but I doubt my green OF1400 would have a problem with it,
though. As I mentioned in an earlier post, I was going to use the
track to hold one dimension. I think it's time to experiment.
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