The insert that came with the saw has a clip at the back and a screw at the
Does a zero clearance insert need those also?
I made mine out of 3/4" stock cause that is what I had and I can't imagine
how it could move except straight up, but I know a 3450 rpm saw blade can do
I've made several out of birch plywood and not used any retainer clips or
other things. Leveling screws are useful, but obviously not to hold it into
the table saw. I've never had any problems with the inserts flying out.
The main thing is to secure them when initially sawing the kerf hole. If
you do that, the blade shouldn't ever touch the insert when in use.
I just put a brad (proud about 1/2") in the back of my insert. Hopefully if
it (the insert) gets caught by the blade, rather than becoming a projectile,
the brad will keep it seated and the blade will just cut the wood. Might
not be needed, but what's a brad cost ;)
the original throat plate on my unisaw has a small nub at the rear
that keeps the back of the insert from raising up. i make zero
clearance inserts out of 1/2 inch lexan and make them with that same
nub. it isnt that hard to do and it adds some safety to the mix. also
the original does not have a hole in it to pick it up with in the
front but mine do. i dont like reaching over the blade to push the
rear down to remove it. i also use screws to level the plate. it
takes a little fiddling to get em right but i only have to do it once.
the original uses allen set screws that can be ajusted from the top
but im too lazy to drill and tap the holes and too cheep to buy the
allen set screws. :-]> skeez
All I have is a little wooden hook at the back. To remove the insert,
I lift the front part and slide it forward a fraction of an inch. The
"hook" is just half of a wooden popsicle stick glued in place.
I don't, but I'm not sure if that answers your question. I've never had
any indication that it was about to take off, but I know just because it
hasn't happened doesn't mean it can't happen.
Larry C in Auburn WA
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