First off, to be to closer to scale you want to go 1/8 x 11/32". 2x4's measure out to 1.5" x 3.5".
I would us Balsa wood and cut with an Exacta, or utility knife. Get the wood at a hobby store.
First off, to be to closer to scale you want to go 1/8 x 11/32". 2x4's measure out to 1.5" x 3.5".
I would us Balsa wood and cut with an Exacta, or utility knife. Get the wood at a hobby store.
I think you should get rid of that rule of yours.
Actually, if the scale is 1 inch = 1 foot, the correct dimensions for an in-scale 2 x 4 (actually 1.5" x 3.5") would be 1/8" x 9/32"
If the scale is 1 to 16, then the correct dimensions would be 3/32" x 7/32"
--Steve
Yeah, my mistake, assuming the 1/8 as the base, 9/32" would be the closest to 32nds?
No actually that would be the bad entry in my spread sheet. LOL
The correct dimension is actually .275" which slightly less than 9/32"
--Steve
Well if we are splitting hairs, ;~) If the 2x4 the true size is 1.5" x 3.5" and if the 1.5" is scaled down to .125"(1/8"), The other would be .29166.....
If you've got a band saw and a planer you could try it this way--resaw a board into pieces maybe 5/16 thick, then plane to 1/4. Now, cut those into maybe 3/16 strips. Plane to 1/8. Experiment first to get the right dimensions so that you can plane both sides smooth with enough allowance to get your finish dimension--the amount of allowance you need is going to depend on your particular tools and skill level.
Do you know what most planers will do to a 1/8" x 1/4" strip?
I do, as I've tried it.
If I could reliably thickness plane to 1/8" thick without all kinds of faffing around with sleds, etc... I could have spent the cost of my Performax 22/44.
"Elsewhere" got chopped off the end of the last sentence by my brain!
Chews the Hell out of the first and last six inches or so, where the piece is not being held down by both rollers. Accept it and treat them as throwaways.
Of course I've got a radial arm saw. One thing it does _real_ good is cut thin slices off a piece of 1/4 inch stock. But since he probably doesn't have one . . .
Ooops - you're right. Not sure what I did there, but 9/32" is still pretty close.
--Steve
If your going to cut 1/8" basswood or balsa.
How about a paper cutter. This is on sale now. Set the fence and shear away. I may look into one of these myself.
This may be overkill. It could also be used for pasteboard/drywall and balsa sheathing or clapboard siding although you can buy sheets that look like clapboard. ;-)
Forget about plumbing.
But the Performax works MUCH better for that kind of work. :-) Mine is a 10/20.
--Steve
You probably did what I did the first time. LOL.
Sometimes, it splinters them in the middle, too!
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It is easy to cut thin, narrow pieces like these with the right table saw accessory. I use a grip-tite magnetic featherboard with the roller guide. A sandpaper roller pulls the wood to the fence in front of the blade, and plastic springs hold the wood down before and after the blade. You push the first board thru the blade and under the springs with the next board. You have to use a zero clearance throatplate. The setup works on my aluminum saw. Had to clamp their steel plate to my fence to hold the magnets.There's a video on you tube.
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