Cutting down a solid-core door

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As I read the OP comment, my first thought was I wonder if the blade was put in backwards. It would still cut but very slowly and eventually could burn up the brushes. The teeth need to be pointed up from the bottom at the front of the blade. When cutting with a circular saw, the cutting action is done on the bottom of the wood, which pulls the saw down onto the top of th wood surface.
Rob
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On 9/28/2011 12:14 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:

Now that all the suggestions are in, I'll add the one that will really work, although might be out side of your budget.
http://www.festoolusa.com/products/plunge-cut-circular-saws/ts-75-eq-plunge-cut-circular-saw-561438.html
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wrote:

KNEW that was coming!
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On 9/29/2011 9:34 AM, Dave wrote:

;!)
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email.me:

If your Skil is like mine, you may want to blow it out with some compressed air. I had some gunk stuck in the upper guard (old trex shavings) and as soon as I cleaned it out the saw ran much better. On the initial cut, I thought it was time to replace the blade, but on the final cut there was no doubt that it was ok.
Interestingly, it looked like the size of the sawdust particles decreased as well. Maybe the blade was running at speed and taking smaller bites?
Puckdropper
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On 9/29/2011 11:54 PM, Puckdropper wrote:

Good tip. I'll check that out.
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On 9/30/2011 9:55 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:

For the 80th post in this thread, I can report that the job was completed without incident. I used the 24 tooth blade in the 7-1/4" Skil, with the depth set to just expose the "gullets" (I learned another new word!). I used the aluminum guide I mentioned upthread, and painter's tape. The cut was nice and smooth, with no splintering to speak of and the saw and brushes performed without complaint.
Thanks again.
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