It most certainly is.
It most certainly will. Refer to the MSDS: it's 5 to 10% acetone. You won't see the damage to the paint until you use it the second or third time in the same spot, after the acetone has removed the clear coat.
That's probably true.
Dougy posts "maybe and then maybe not" but just wants to be seen as an expert without actually knowing anything.
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I have to think the brushes were on the way out anyway. I cut several oak veneer six panel doors a year ago with a 30+ year old circular saw with no power issues. I consulted with a finish carpenter and he said the best way to ensure a clean cut, with the veneer doors, was to use a new, inexpensive, carbide-tip, thin-kerf blade. Dewalt and Irwin sell them for less than $10 at home improvement stores. That is what I did, using a clamped on straightedge, and it was a no-brainer. Don't forget to apply finish to the bottom fresh-cut edge and give it time to cure before installation (especially above carpet)..
RonB
Good tip. I'll check that out.
AITOOWDUTA?
(Am I The Only One Who Doesn't Understand These Acronyms?)
Yes, I looked it up, but geez, I'm becoming a neanderthal, I guess.
quoted text -
As I read the OP comment, my first thought was I wonder if the blade was put in backwards. It would still cut but very slowly and eventually could burn up the brushes. The teeth need to be pointed up from the bottom at the front of the blade. When cutting with a circular saw, the cutting action is done on the bottom of the wood, which pulls the saw down onto the top of th wood surface.
Rob
For the 80th post in this thread, I can report that the job was completed without incident. I used the 24 tooth blade in the 7-1/4" Skil, with the depth set to just expose the "gullets" (I learned another new word!). I used the aluminum guide I mentioned upthread, and painter's tape. The cut was nice and smooth, with no splintering to speak of and the saw and brushes performed without complaint.
Thanks again.
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