Cutting down a solid-core door

[krw]

Should get a cleaner cut with the depth set to minimum, too.

[clare]

But the blade needs to be CLEAN. A pitch-encrusted blade takes more than twice the power a clean blade takes - particularly in petrified saw-dust. A good shot with something like "brake kleen" will disolve the crud very quickly and you won't believe the difference in the cut.

[clare]

If the brushes get hot enough the brush springs loose tension - then the brushes arc - which makes them run hotter - and the cycle repeats itself.

[clare]

Correct - full depth cut causes the shortest tooth path through the wood - meaning the least wasted power.

[Father Haskell]

Right. Only reason a table saw blade is set to cut low is to limit how deep a dado it can cut through your hand.

[Greg Guarino]

Always.

[-MIKE-]

Well... there's always the fact that you might not want to cut all the way through your saw horses or have to set your plywood up on the edges of 2x4's to keep from cutting though your workbench or concrete floor.

In any case, I still contend it's a moot point. If you're blade is running too hot or your saw is bogging down, it's time for a new saw and/or blade.

[-MIKE-]

I've but them with the little rip fence that attaches to my circ saw with perfect results.

[Larry Jaques]

Safer, and usually also handy, is SimpleGreen. Soak the blade in it for 15-30 minutes, rinse (the pine tar falls off), and reinstall. Save the soak for a dozen or more blades. It lasts when bottled. I use a regular old pie tin for holding the solution.

-- Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air? -- Ralph Waldo Emerson

[Larry Jaques]

Eez true, too, mi compadre.

-- Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air? -- Ralph Waldo Emerson

[Steve Barker]

but you might cut the saw horse in two....

[Steve Barker]

less cut being made at a time.

if you have the blade just *barely* through a inch and a half piece, then you have almost four inches of cut being made. if you have it at full depth, you are almost straight up and down with the cut and only making 1- 1/2" at at time.

[Steve Barker]

nothing unsafe about brakleen, but it won't cut pitch like carb cleaner will.

[Larry Jaques]

Brakleen works great on carbs, too, both for starting and cleaning the exterior, if you're unlucky enough to still be stuck with one.

I don't particularly like breathing all those VOCs, and you have to use a bit of caution with any flame near its use, and you don't want to spray/drip onto any painted surfaces with it. I only use it outside on windy days.

SimpleGreen is much easier.

So, -yeah-, Brakleen has safety concerns...if you're awake enough. ;)

-- Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air? -- Ralph Waldo Emerson

[Larry Jaques]

Or your work mutt. (Hi, O'Deen!)

-- Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air? -- Ralph Waldo Emerson

[-MIKE-]

Like I've been saying, if you have to worry about heat or bogging down, you need a new saw and/or blade. There are other, better, reasons to keep the saw blade up.

[Morgans]

Always.

------------------------------------------- Not necessary, if you have good circular saw skills.

I score both sides of the door, and stay about a 32nd back from the score mark. No problems.

-- Jim in NC

[Greg Guarino]

Exactly why I use the guide rail. :)

But seriously, I've got an aluminum guide for just that purpose which doesn't weigh any more than the straight edge a better craftsman would need to make the pencil line. Two spring clamps and voila, perfect cut.

[Robatoy]

My saw has a variable mootness adjustment.

[m II]

Second that!

Try one and you'll never go back