Custom kerf saw blades

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Anyone know of a supplier of saw blades in unusually wide kerfs? I'm looking for a single blade that will cut a kef of .220", give or take a few thou. I'm planning on using it to groove drawer parts to accept 5mm/~.200" plywood bottoms. Dado stacks only cut as small as .25", and none of our blades is large enough. I've sort of ruled out using a router bit. Feel free to argue otherwise though.
JP
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Jay Pique wrote: | Anyone know of a supplier of saw blades in unusually wide kerfs? | I'm looking for a single blade that will cut a kef of .220", give | or take a few thou. I'm planning on using it to groove drawer | parts to accept 5mm/~.200" plywood bottoms. Dado stacks only cut | as small as .25", and none of our blades is large enough. I've | sort of ruled out using a router bit. Feel free to argue otherwise | though.
Otherwise!
Oh, sorry. This is abuse. Arguing is down the hall...
-- Morris Dovey DeSoto Solar DeSoto, Iowa USA http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto /
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I'm still grumbling over that Clamping Caul Machine you sent me. It's been sitting in the shop for MONTHS and it hasn't churned out a single caul yet! Is there an on/off switch that I'm missing?
JP
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Jay Pique wrote:
|| Jay Pique wrote: || ||| Anyone know of a supplier of saw blades in unusually wide kerfs? ||| I'm looking for a single blade that will cut a kef of .220", give ||| or take a few thou. I'm planning on using it to groove drawer ||| parts to accept 5mm/~.200" plywood bottoms. Dado stacks only cut ||| as small as .25", and none of our blades is large enough. I've ||| sort of ruled out using a router bit. Feel free to argue ||| otherwise though. || || Otherwise! || || Oh, sorry. This is abuse. Arguing is down the hall... | | I'm still grumbling over that Clamping Caul Machine you sent me. | It's been sitting in the shop for MONTHS and it hasn't churned out | a single caul yet! Is there an on/off switch that I'm missing?
Sorry, but you only get the switch when you order the self-leveling laser alignment indicator and anchoring attachment - our super-caul-fragile-i-stick.
-- Morris Dovey DeSoto Solar DeSoto, Iowa USA http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto /
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Jay Pique wrote:

What about stacking some thin-kerf blades together with shims?
Chris
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That's an option, and one I'll probably be using for my immediate need. But I'd prefer to have a dedicated blade, as this is going to be used with some regularity by a number of different workers.
JP
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Jim
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Stack two thin kerfs with a 0.0125 shim between them.

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Seems like you could just go to your regular sharpener and have him grind a standard kerf on the sides a bit. Or am I missing something ? I probably am - don't know much about the mechanics of sharpening blades.
JimInFL
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tooth/gullet?
scott
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I think I asked this question several years ago, I continue to so what I always have done. Pass each piece over the blade 1 time and repeat with the fence moved over a bit.
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Googled "custom saw blades". 1st hit is: www.integritysaw.com/sawblades.htm
They say: "Special kerfs and diameters are not a problem when manufacturing a custom saw blade. We can manufacture custom blades from 2” to 36”."
No association whatsoever, just wanted to point out it may be easy to get what you need.
Torr
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Thanks much, Torr. I've already emailed a couple other blade manufacturers tonight. I'll drop one to them too.
JP
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Jay Pique wrote:

You might be able to get by with just having the set of the teeth widened up.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
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Nova wrote:

You can't "widen up" the set of carbide teeth. You need to start with wider carbide.
Chris
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Chris Friesen wrote:

You can't make the carbide wider, no, but there's no reason additional set in the tooth itself couldn't be added to a blade. Getting 0.220" would probably be more than feasible from a typical combination 10" blade, however, granted.
--
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Not a good idea to add set to a carbide saw, the plate is not designed for it and you will play hell with the solder joint adding bending forces. A good saw shop could likely make you up something that will work but I would be inclined to just use a saw and a shim against the fence and make two passes, one with the shim against the fence and the second pass with it removed. Another approach would be to add some wobble to the saw by using a modified arbor washer.
Or you could use a 7/32 endmill in a router and given a little runout get damn close.
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beecrofter wrote:

The location of the set is far removed from the location of the braze.
That said, as above, I'm _not_ recommending it any more now than I was then, only commenting it is possible...
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Set farther down the tooth puts stress in the gullets. leads to cracking. I have seen a few set blades with brazed teeth but these were of the syncab/china freight/junk variety with skinny stellite tips. So far in 20 years of general sharpening I have yet to encounter a carbide saw with set in the plate. Might be an industry that uses one but I doubt it.
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Jay Pique wrote:

I usually just do this in two passes, with fence spacers.
For a one pass operation, I'd email Ridge, Forrest, or Systematic for a custom blade quote.
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