Clamps - 40"+ sized clamps

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I am looking for clamps that are at least are between 40" and 48". I am just starting to get into wood working and I am starting with some cabinets and tables. I want to get quality clamps that will last but I don't want to get the "rolls royce" of clamps.
I have only seen Jorgensen Cabinet Master which can be found in 48". Bessey has 3 different options the Tradesmen medium Duty goes to 40", the Tradesmem Heavy Duty goes all the way to 90 with a 4.5 throat. The last Bessey option is K Body clamp which has widths all the way to 98".
Can someone give me some input regarding these clamps or recomend others.
thanks for your help
john
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I think Bessey & Cabinet Master fall into the "Rolls Royce" category. Are there any better? I haven't used Tradesman Heavy Duty's.

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I had built many cabinets, bookcases, etc using pipe clamps before I felt sufficiently affluent to invest in Bessey K Body clamps. I really like the Bessey clamps but I see no reason why pipe clamps would not suffice.
Max
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Thanks,
I'll look into pipe clamps. I somehow forgot about them.
john
Max wrote:

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Coltrane wrote:

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Remember the couplers and make long ones out of shorter sections, fringe benefit is easier storage for shorter lengths.
wrote:

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Agreed! I have a few Bessy K body's but keep grabbing my pipe clamps. The K body's rarely leave the wall. Nothing wrong with pipe clamps at all. You can buy several lengths of pipe and just change the clamp body if money is tight. Greg
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wrote:

You have both and choose the pipes? Why? <G>
I also have both available in many sizes and can't ever imagine a single reason why I would choose pipes over K's. The K's are much easier to size up, clamp square, spread the load better, are non-stick, are stackable, can stand on their head, and don't react with glues to discolor wood.
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I haven't experienced problems with discoloration.
Max (those Bessey clamps *are* nice though)
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Somebody wrote:
> I have a few Bessy K body's but keep grabbing my pipe clamps. The K > body's rarely leave the wall.
Without question, Bessey K-body clamps are superior; however; 3/4 pipe clamps will also do a good job with a little practice.
Contact a pipe distributor and get a quote on pipe nipples.
Just recently bought some 3/4 x 60" long, black iron nipples. Price was about $15.00.
Add some couplings and you have a lot of flexibility.
Lew
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I'd add to that that I have at least 2 dozen pipe clamps ranging from a foot to more than 6 feet, and have never paid for the pipe used in any of them. If you have any industry in your area you can probably find all the pipe you'd ever need in dumpsters. [I do buy new pipe for any plumbing projects, however. :) ]
--
A man who throws dirt loses ground.

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - snipped-for-privacy@charm.net
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The pipe clamps are lighter and easier to operate in my opinion. I use the Bessy's when I am clamping up something where I might have to reach over other clamps, but otherwise I stick to the Jorgensen Pony's.
It probably comes down to what a person gets used to. I have used Pony's for 30 years, not gonna stop now! Greg
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clamps down the rack toward the floor. No fussy cauls, no stand-up troubles, no rotation on the far end, and no fussing and shimming to keep the clamping force in line with the screw centered.
Easy habit to break. The pipe clamps are now stored in a secondary location out of the workshop, called upon to work 50" and over only.
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My Pony clamps stand up just fine. Rotation?? Shimming?? Greg
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Greg O wrote:

You've never bumped the sliding end of a long pipe clamp while clamping casework and had it rotate?
NOW I understand why you like them so much! <G>
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Sure I have, but I just reach over and put it back in place. Nothing to get worked up about. It does not happen enough for me to spend 2-3 times the price on clamps and toss them all and buy Bessy's. The lighter weight of a Pony bar clamp helps even out things a bit over the heavier Bessy's. Sometimes when clamping up stuff one of my Bessy clamps will fall over too. Shit happens. Greg
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Greg O wrote:

On a 5 or 6 foot clamp while you're holding the other end on a large case? That's what I'm talking about. Of course I can spin the end of a 2-3 foot clamp. <G>
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Was making some 1/2" thick panels yesterday with the Besseys when I realized that I was not reaching for supports to lift the centerline of the glueup to the center of the tightening screw to avoid pinching and bowing. What a nice feeling, though I still clamp alternate sides more or less out of habit from years of pipe clamps.
Having purchased one of the Norm-style glue rollers a couple projects ago, I noticed I now have glue all over the bars. Any easy remedies out there for removing Titebond? The bottle is going back to the shelf to stay, I fear.
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White vinegar?
Patriarch
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Heard that about PVA (yellow glue), think I'll try it
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