I am making a vanity to replace on in my vacation house. The current vanity
has an odd shape so that it can fit in a tight space. If you look here you
will see three pictures. Please look and then I will tell you the help I
I want to make a new vanity to have the same shape as the current vanity as
seen in the plan view which is in Picture 2. You see an odd shape on one
end. That was done to fit the vanity in a narrow space while still having it
deep enough. The two angles on the odd piece are 45 degrees each.
Now my question. I want to put a 22.5 degree angle on the adjoining faces of
the two pieces of the face frame as shown in picture 1. I did the narrow
face frame (the right one in the picture) easily on my table saw. However,
the wider face frame it too wide to fit on my table saw between the blade
and the fence. My idea was to do it on my jointer but I need a firm piece to
put up against the tilted jointer fence. It is unstable if I do it as is. My
one idea is to use some double stick tape to affix the face frame to a solid
piece of wood so I can keep the face frame tightly against the fence (the
backer board would actually against the fence with the face frame on the
front of the backer board). Does anyone have a better idea?
What you've described should work with careful set-up.
I'd be inclined to use a 22.5-degree camfer bit in my router with a
straight guide because I'd be more confident in being able to cut the
angle exactly along the full length of the board.
If budget isn't a primary concern, a 22.5-degree lock-miter bit used the
same way might work even better.
MLCS has both bits, and the camfer bit can be seen at
...if I'm reading this right, I'd probably turn the faceframe upside
down and run it through the TS on the short side...if the width is
still an issue just grab a piece of ply and temp it up to serve for
bearing...rather than run up against the fence, use a sacrificial
board of some kind clamped to the fence, notched-out slighty to clear
the blade...I'm thinking you have a left-tilt saw...
...yanno, after reading the other responses, I think your answer is in
the sled idea...but you approach it from the non-fence side of the
blade with your frame upside-down (yes, there'll be a bit of tearout,
depending on sharpness and what species you're working with, but if
you're paint grade that's not a problem)...just a piece of ply on
runners with a rail to back it would be all you'd need.
On another tack, if you post your responses *after*...or on the
bottom...of the post you are responding to, threads remain consistent
and someone coming in late will be able to follow more easily...I'm
sure with the crew in here, you'll find what's right for you...if
anything, you'll gain appreciation for the fact that there are as many
ways of doing something as there are people on the planet! LOL...
The PIA about that is there are so many twits out there that post something
like "I agree" at the end of a 300 word post. This is made even worse by the
people that don't use the > symbol on quoted text. Some of these at least
use a line, though some just use a couple of spaces. In either case, you are
left hunting for the end of one post and the beginning of another.
...we're singing from the same hymnal...the longer posts get, the more
of a pain in the rear. <snipping> helps after all else fails...it
takes some time for somebody to become familiar with netiquette...I'm
still learning, too...
Yabbut (I love that term) if you run the panel vertically you can only
achieve angles that leave the workpiece with bevels of 45 degrees or
less. He needs a final bevel of 62-1/2 degrees (90 - 22-1/2).
Any given amount of traffic flow, no matter how
sparse, will expand to fill all available lanes.
How ya figgur?
I screwed up on this point myself awhile back in the wreck. And a number of
folks pointed out that I was delusional and sorely lacking in math skills.
As Steve points out above, "He needs a final bevel of 62-1/2 degrees (90 -
22-1/2)". Well, by presenting the stock to the saw blade vertically, he has
acheived his 90 degrees. And by cutting a bevel less than 45 degrees, he
will achieve what is needed.
A lesson learned long ago, after much effort to do it other ways, is to look
at all cuts from the saw's perspective. Get down to the level of the cutting
table and look at it from the saw blades's perspective. Difficult cuts
become more clear that way. You are not standing over it trying to figure it
out from a vertical human perspective.
Ya know, a zen thing. You are the saw blade. You are wise in the ways of
cutting. You know how to make this cut. Etc, etc. <VBG>
OK, I got it out of my system. I will now go back into curmudgeon mode now.
I don't know what you guys are on about. He already has a mating (or
gluing) surface that's 90 degrees from the face of the panel; if he runs
the whole assembled frame through vertically (because he doesn't have
enough fence capacity to run it through flat on the table) with the
blade at "0" (90 degrees from the table), he can't cut *any* new mating
surface, now can he? He needs to remove a 22-1/2 degree slice, but he
would have to bevel the blade 67-1/2 degrees (sorry, I said 62-1/2
earlier) to get that, and last time I checked a table saw blade can only
bevel up to 45 degrees. Am I missing something here? :-)
Repeat after me:
"I am we Todd it. I am sofa king we Todd it."
It WOULD be easier and I tried that on a test scrap. Then I realized that I
had different width gluing surfaces but more importantly it would be
difficult to cut a backer block with 22.5 degree angle cuts on each side to
glue to the inside of the joint so it would press against the back of the
joint to make a nice secure assembly. With a 45 degree glued to a 90 degree,
the hypotunuse left after the 45 degree cut is just a hair over an inch
glued to a 3/4" piece of wood.
Yeah it is Friday.
You're right but he could easily make a sled that is at 22 1/2 deg and
make the cut with the blade at 45. Or...
make a 45deg sled and bevel the blade to 22 1/2 or...
make a 30deg sled and ...
or (watch wrap)
I don't have a jointer so I would do it on the TS with a sled I built
for other purposes. Something along the lines of this to hold the
This could work. I have not made a panel rasing jig though I have certainly
seen plenty of plans for making one in addition to one Norm made at some
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.