Can you give me some help on making this angle cut?

[Dick Snyder]

I am making a vanity to replace on in my vacation house. The current vanity has an odd shape so that it can fit in a tight space. If you look here you will see three pictures. Please look and then I will tell you the help I need:

want to make a new vanity to have the same shape as the current vanity as seen in the plan view which is in Picture 2. You see an odd shape on one end. That was done to fit the vanity in a narrow space while still having it deep enough. The two angles on the odd piece are 45 degrees each.

Now my question. I want to put a 22.5 degree angle on the adjoining faces of the two pieces of the face frame as shown in picture 1. I did the narrow face frame (the right one in the picture) easily on my table saw. However, the wider face frame it too wide to fit on my table saw between the blade and the fence. My idea was to do it on my jointer but I need a firm piece to put up against the tilted jointer fence. It is unstable if I do it as is. My one idea is to use some double stick tape to affix the face frame to a solid piece of wood so I can keep the face frame tightly against the fence (the backer board would actually against the fence with the face frame on the front of the backer board). Does anyone have a better idea?

TIA.

Dick Snyder

[Morris Dovey]

What you've described should work with careful set-up.

I'd be inclined to use a 22.5-degree camfer bit in my router with a straight guide because I'd be more confident in being able to cut the angle exactly along the full length of the board.

If budget isn't a primary concern, a 22.5-degree lock-miter bit used the same way might work even better.

MLCS has both bits, and the camfer bit can be seen at

[Charlie Groh]

...if I'm reading this right, I'd probably turn the faceframe upside down and run it through the TS on the short side...if the width is still an issue just grab a piece of ply and temp it up to serve for bearing...rather than run up against the fence, use a sacrificial board of some kind clamped to the fence, notched-out slighty to clear the blade...I'm thinking you have a left-tilt saw...

cg

[Limp Arbor]

I don't have a jointer so I would do it on the TS with a sled I built for other purposes. Something along the lines of this to hold the piece vertical.

[Steve Turner]

achieve angles that leave the workpiece with bevels of 45 degrees or less. He needs a final bevel of 62-1/2 degrees (90 - 22-1/2).

[Len]

> I want to make a new vanity to have the same shape as the current vanity as

Do you own a decent jack or jointer plane? Knocking the corners off to

22-1/2 degrees shouldn't take all that long to do. Probably take less time then setting this up on a table saw.

Len

[Robatoy]

[Steve Turner]

I counted it out on my fingers.

[Pat Barber]

I agree with the router table solution.

Quick, easy, safe, and "very" accurate.

I own a large 8" jo> I am making a vanity to replace on in my vacation house. The current vanity

[Lee Michaels]

==============================

I screwed up on this point myself awhile back in the wreck. And a number of folks pointed out that I was delusional and sorely lacking in math skills.

As Steve points out above, "He needs a final bevel of 62-1/2 degrees (90 -

22-1/2)". Well, by presenting the stock to the saw blade vertically, he has acheived his 90 degrees. And by cutting a bevel less than 45 degrees, he will achieve what is needed.

A lesson learned long ago, after much effort to do it other ways, is to look at all cuts from the saw's perspective. Get down to the level of the cutting table and look at it from the saw blades's perspective. Difficult cuts become more clear that way. You are not standing over it trying to figure it out from a vertical human perspective.

Ya know, a zen thing. You are the saw blade. You are wise in the ways of cutting. You know how to make this cut. Etc, etc.

OK, I got it out of my system. I will now go back into curmudgeon mode now.

[Steve Turner]

I don't know what you guys are on about. He already has a mating (or gluing) surface that's 90 degrees from the face of the panel; if he runs the whole assembled frame through vertically (because he doesn't have enough fence capacity to run it through flat on the table) with the blade at "0" (90 degrees from the table), he can't cut *any* new mating surface, now can he? He needs to remove a 22-1/2 degree slice, but he would have to bevel the blade 67-1/2 degrees (sorry, I said 62-1/2 earlier) to get that, and last time I checked a table saw blade can only bevel up to 45 degrees. Am I missing something here? :-)

[Robatoy]

I am a rack, I'm a piiiiiiinion... (my apologies to Mr. Paul Simon.)

The universe is the motor. In all reality, the board being cut, stands still. It is the saw and the entire room that is moving.

Thanks for the chuckle, grass-hoppa.

[Dick Snyder]

I am making cuts on both mating surfaces at 22.5 degrees. That will give me maxiumum wood to wood contact and will give me an angle of 45 degrees from the face of the vanity to the shorter section.

[Limp Arbor]

=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D

Yeah it is Friday.

You're right but he could easily make a sled that is at 22 1/2 deg and make the cut with the blade at 45. Or... make a 45deg sled and bevel the blade to 22 1/2 or... make a 30deg sled and ...

like this:

(watch wrap)

[Dick Snyder]

I'm not quite following this suggestion Charlie. I do have a left tilting blade. At full extension, I have about 24.5 inches from fence to blade. The face frame is 27" wide.

>>>>> I want to make a new vanity to have the same shape as the current vanity >>> as

[Dick Snyder]

I don't have a jointer so I would do it on the TS with a sled I built for other purposes. Something along the lines of this to hold the piece vertical.

could work. I have not made a panel rasing jig though I have certainly seen plenty of plans for making one in addition to one Norm made at some point.

[Dick Snyder]

I do not own a jack plane but I would think it would be tough to get so precise an angle. However, since I don't own one I don't know what I am talking about!

[Len]

current

>>

Set a bevel gauge for 22-1/2 degrees and check as you go. Same way you'd check the angles on slats for a wooden bucket.

Len

[charlie]

wouldn't it be a lot easier to make a 45 in one side, and leave the other at

90? sure, it's a bit longer, but that shouldn't affect anything.

[Dick Snyder]