Cabinet scraper which to purchase

After a brief lesson in using and "sharpening" one at a local woodworkers shop, I'm planning on purchasing one.
Would like some wrecker's opinions on which brand to purchase? A Hock? The standard German ones?
Alan
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On 7 May 2004 20:32:22 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@worldnet.att.net (Alan W) wrote:

I mostly make my own from high speed steel (non carbide tipped) saw blades.
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Sandvik are first quality and innexpensive. I have found the best burnishers to be push rods from an auto engine. Most engine rebuilders are glad to get rid of them. Dave

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Just bought a Sandvik (bahco) one. It only produces dust, so i need to work on the edge and hook. Thanks for the burnisher-push rod tip.
(Alan W)

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On Sat, 8 May 2004 07:59:07 -0400, "Dave W"

===============================LOL... "my" claim to fame (as a user of puch rods to burnish scrapers ) now is shot to hell....
But in truth I really have to credit my Father (died a few years ago) with starting me using them....
Bob G.
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Leonard Lee (sharpening bible author) does not really like the use of them. The only acceptable burnisher-replacement for him is a file with the teeth removed.
Wouter
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I use a dowel pin. Hard as a file and smooth.

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CW wrote:

Bicycle crankshafts -- better makes, i.e. Shimano or Campagnolo, are forged from impressive sounding stuff like case hardened, boron nitride-impregnated 10100 bearing alloy. These will destroy a file in short order. Flats are already ground at an convenient 3 degrees, perfect for rolling over the hook. Heavier than a lifter rod, thus easier to draw smoothly along the scraper edge.

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I have never seen high speed steel wood saw blades. Where do you get them?
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wrote:

any tool store. lots of saws come with one as original equipment, and many commercial builders supply them to their piecework contractors.
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Those are plain medium carbon steel, not high speed steel.

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Untipped sawblades (good ones) will usually be L-6 alloy. It's not a "high speed steel" (a vague term, so pick your own definition), but it is a fine steel for making scrapers (and even better for forged knifemaking).
Slotting saws (used in metalworking) are small circular sawblades and _are_ solid HSS. Hard to find one over 3" diameter, but they're excellent as either tiny detail scrapers, or as cutters for a scratch stock. They're also a little brittle, easily broken, and unsharpenable - so an engineering workshop may have several for scrounging.
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snipped-for-privacy@worldnet.att.net (Alan W) wrote in

I have a BAHCO Sandvik scraper, and have had only moderate success with keeping it properly tuned. Never, however, have I been accused of having an excess of patience.
When the woodworking show came to town a couple of weeks ago, I went by the Lie-Nielsen booth. They were selling a pair of cabinet scrapers, two different thicknesses, for $15. I bought two pair, because I have never heard, or experienced, anything negative about the quality of the LN tools. These were perfect right out of the envelope, and helped me finish some really beautiful/nasty birdseye maple drawer fronts, without resorting to the power sander.
I don't know if your local dealer carries these, or what the shipping would be to order them direct, but these were no more expensive, to my mind, than the BAHCO was at Rockler. Best of all, they yielded success, right out of the package.
Patriarch
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On Mon, 10 May 2004 17:05:29 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@worldnet.att.net (Alan W) wrote:

You can get both sets (milled scrapers: rectangular and curves) from www.LeeValley.com for $28, and that's delivered. rectangular $12/set. 05K30.10 and $9.95 05K20.20 curved set.
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snipped-for-privacy@worldnet.att.net (Alan W) wrote in message

Alan I have one Sandvik and several cheap ones. Also made some from steel kickplates from old commercial doors.All of them work well, the cheap ones are thinner than the Sandvic, but I prefer them.Buy a set of reasonably priced card scrapers, they'll probably work just as well as the Hock which I admit have never used. mike
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