BURLED WALNUT


I am not really skilled in w.w. however, I want to cut some thin slices from burled walnut and wrap them around some 4 to 6 inch posts that will be in the sun.
What is the best way to cut (with bandsaw and fixture?) and best way to ensure they won't crack when wrapping them on posts (steam and quicily apply?) or, ...
I am open to all suggestions if you will help.
Thanks
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I may be getting lost in the bold type posts.
" " "I am not really skilled in w.w. however, I want to cut some thin "slices from burled walnut and wrap them around some 4 to 6 inch "posts that will be in the sun. " "What is the best way to cut (with bandsaw and fixture?) and best "way to ensure they won't crack when wrapping them on posts (steam "and quicily apply?) or, ... " "I am open to all suggestions if you will help. " "Thanks
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Are these round fence posts? Square? When you say thin, how thin is that?
Leif
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Leif Thorvaldson wrote:

Your objective is obviously for looks and not function. There are several reasons why your plan may fail, and there may be a few other options, for you, in acquiring the look you want. Failure: *Your burl may crack/check while you are trying to cut your veneer pieces. Depending on how you cut it, it may heat up as you cut. There are varying densities within the burl and it will expand and contract at varying temps. *Your burl veneer may likely crack/check when you are attempting to attach it to the posts, no matter what method you use to bend it. Again, the varying densities may play a part with that, in that the border between two different density areas may react differently to the stress/strain of the bending. *IF you should get it attached sufficiently, it will likely crack/check at some later time because of expansion/contraction, when being heated by the sun, of the different density areas. *It may detach from your posts because of the different density of the burl, as a whole, compared to the posts themselves. And I suppose you plan on clearcoating the burl (sun exposed? That won't work out well, either). And leaving it raw surely won't work for looks. Clearcoating it will not last very long, being exposed to sunlight, unless you plan on recoating often. For clear coating exterior pieces, I would recommend tung oil or WaterLox, but even these will deteriorate, over time, when exposed. Options: *Buy walnut veneer and apply to your posts. THis will save time and effort. *Faux stain your posts to look like burled walnut. Practice on some scrap wood to get your technique down and the proper look you want. Sponge or rough rag. Stains used on barns may be and option rather than standard project staining. *If you have some nice burl walnut, save it for another nice project worthy of walnut and, maybe, make some rosettes or pull knobs with any small scraps. Rosettes and pull knobs are good practice projects for any woodworker, novice or pro.
Sonny
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Yes they will be for looks only.
I have seen burled walnut on auto dashboards, handles, etc. I don't need any particular thickness, just as long as it will wrap around a circle or semi-cirlce.
A certain amound of u.v. will be blocked by glass and refinishing won't be too much trouble for me.
Thanks
" "L eif Thorvaldson wrote:
"> "> > "> > "> > I am not really skilled in w.w. however, I want to cut some thin "> > slices from burled walnut and wrap them around some 4 to 6 inch "> > posts that will be in the sun. "> > " "Your objective is obviously for looks and not function. There are "several reasons why your plan may fail, and there may be a few other "options, for you, in acquiring the look you want. "Failure: *Your burl may crack/check while you are trying to cut your "veneer pieces. Depending on how you cut it, it may heat up as you cut. "There are varying densities within the burl and it will expand and "contract at varying temps. *Your burl veneer may likely crack/check "when you are attempting to attach it to the posts, no matter what "method you use to bend it. Again, the varying densities may play a part "with that, in that the border between two different density areas may "react differently to the stress/strain of the bending. *IF you should "get it attached sufficiently, it will likely crack/check at some later "time because of expansion/contraction, when being heated by the sun, of "the different density areas. *It may detach from your posts because of "the different density of the burl, as a whole, compared to the posts "themselves. And I suppose you plan on clearcoating the burl (sun "exposed? That won't work out well, either). And leaving it raw surely "won't work for looks. Clearcoating it will not last very long, being "exposed to sunlight, unless you plan on recoating often. For clear "coating exterior pieces, I would recommend tung oil or WaterLox, but "even these will deteriorate, over time, when exposed. "Options: *Buy walnut veneer and apply to your posts. THis will save "time and effort. *Faux stain your posts to look like burled walnut. "Practice on some scrap wood to get your technique down and the proper "look you want. Sponge or rough rag. Stains used on barns may be and "option rather than standard project staining. *If you have some nice "burl walnut, save it for another nice project worthy of walnut and, "maybe, make some rosettes or pull knobs with any small scraps. Rosettes "and pull knobs are good practice projects for any woodworker, novice or "pro. " "Sonny
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No Staiin!
Can burled walnut veneer be bought? If so, how do 'they' make it?
" "Leif Thorvaldson wrote:
"> "> > "> > "> > I am not really skilled in w.w. however, I want to cut some thin "> > slices from burled walnut and wrap them around some 4 to 6 inch "> > posts that will be in the sun. "> > " "Your objective is obviously for looks and not function. There are "several reasons why your plan may fail, and there may be a few other "options, for you, in acquiring the look you want. "Failure: *Your burl may crack/check while you are trying to cut your "veneer pieces. Depending on how you cut it, it may heat up as you cut. "There are varying densities within the burl and it will expand and "contract at varying temps. *Your burl veneer may likely crack/check "when you are attempting to attach it to the posts, no matter what "method you use to bend it. Again, the varying densities may play a part "with that, in that the border between two different density areas may "react differently to the stress/strain of the bending. *IF you should "get it attached sufficiently, it will likely crack/check at some later "time because of expansion/contraction, when being heated by the sun, of "the different density areas. *It may detach from your posts because of "the different density of the burl, as a whole, compared to the posts "themselves. And I suppose you plan on clearcoating the burl (sun "exposed? That won't work out well, either). And leaving it raw surely "won't work for looks. Clearcoating it will not last very long, being "exposed to sunlight, unless you plan on recoating often. For clear "coating exterior pieces, I would recommend tung oil or WaterLox, but "even these will deteriorate, over time, when exposed. "Options: *Buy walnut veneer and apply to your posts. THis will save "time and effort. *Faux stain your posts to look like burled walnut. "Practice on some scrap wood to get your technique down and the proper "look you want. Sponge or rough rag. Stains used on barns may be and "option rather than standard project staining. *If you have some nice "burl walnut, save it for another nice project worthy of walnut and, "maybe, make some rosettes or pull knobs with any small scraps. Rosettes "and pull knobs are good practice projects for any woodworker, novice or "pro. " "Sonny
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Can burled walnut veneer be bought? If so, how do 'they' make it?
Most veneers are cut relatively the same way. Any type of burl is harder to cut and get a good piece of large size. Plain walnut veneer, as any veneer, is readily available. Burl walnut veneer will cost at least 5 times more than plain walnut veneer because it is more difficult to cut a decent and large piece. Burl is also not so plentiful, in that it is cut from one specific area of a tree, hence the tree size limits the amount of burl within it and the size of a sheet of burl. Multiple sheets with a similar grain pattern are a premium also.
Your original query implied your posts were on the exterior. UV light does not penetrate glass, so any clear coating may not be affected by UV light, however that sunlight may affect it as it does with fabric, rugs, pictures, etc. that tend to fade when exposed.
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To buy raw veneer of Walnut Burl you buy what is commonly known as "Flitch" Which is a chunk of wood that is sliced into Venners. You can then take this and do a lay-up by bookmatching and quatering the peices as ech peice is close to the same look
If you buy the venner already laid up this is what you see a bunch of small peices of wood layed up into a 4' x 8' sheet I'm working with some on a project now, a 4 x8 sheet runs about 450.00
I'll take my camera to the shop tommorrow and see if i can get a good shot that may show agood portion of the lay-ups
George

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They are round posts. Thinness doesn't matter just as long as I can bend it around in a circle or semi-circle
On Sun, 1 Jan 2006 01:11:17 -0800, "Leif Thorvaldson"
"
" "> "> "> I am not really skilled in w.w. however, I want to cut some thin "> slices from burled walnut and wrap them around some 4 to 6 inch "> posts that will be in the sun. "> "> What is the best way to cut (with bandsaw and fixture?) and best "> way to ensure they won't crack when wrapping them on posts (steam "> and quicily apply?) or, ... "> "> I am open to all suggestions if you will help. " "======>Other than for furniture grade fence posts, what is your intention. "Are these round fence posts? Square? When you say thin, how thin is that? " "Leif "
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