Best way to attach a solid wood tabletop....

What would you guys recommend to attach a solid red oak (42"x20"x1.25"- 3 boards glued) table top to 4 - 1.75"x1.75" legs. The design doesn't allow for a skirt. Is there some sort of recommended hardware I could find at Home Depot or an Ace? The plans show a sort of figure 8 piece of metal that I've never seen before. What would the wood movement considerations be. I think it would be considered end grain (top of legs) into long grain (table top). Thanks for the help. It's my first real project, so sorry for the stupid noob question. Thanks!
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That would depend on the rest of the table design. If there is no shelf, apron, or other supports, it had better be handled very very gently or it will fold up.
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Not sure why the design fails to provide for supports for legs, but you know best.
Would design allow you to tenon tops of legs and mortise top so that part of leg came through the top?
Or use a round tenon and Forstner bit so end of leg inserts into top but does NOT protrude/show through?
Alternatively, could you put the "skirt interior to the legs so it would be hidden, but still provide some support?

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Actually there are support for the legs. It's basically a box. The 4 legs are screwed into the box on the 4 corners with about 6 inches above the box and 2 inches below. The tabletop sits on the tops of the 4 legs. resrfglc wrote:

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I would use wooden dowels and glue.
Stoutman www.garagewoodworks.com
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Scratch that! I think I understand now how your table goes together. You are better off using the figure eights.

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It's not real clear to me how this goes together... but you can get the figure-8 fasteners here:
http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=1&pP311&cat=3,41306,41312
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
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Thanks! Doug Miller wrote:

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Yep, these are called table irons also. Several versions out there but I like these solid versions vs the stamped sheet metal versions.
I suggest drilling (fostner) the holes in the legs about 3/32 deeper than the thickness of the irons. This allows you to cinch down the table top real tight. Also, make sure to put the hole close enough to the edge or chisle out the sides a bit because you'll want the iron to be able to swivel to account for expansion of the top. Even under a tight screw it will swivel when it needs too.
I'd also suggest putting two of these at each leg, probably on the two inside faces but anywhere is OK. People will be lifting the table by the top over the years and you want a good connection. Also, I've had tops get kicked loose (during shipping problems) over the years so be brave and use the longest screw you can trust into the top to make sure you get a good bite. I was only using 5/8" screws into a 3/4 top and they pulled out pretty easy. You should be OK with 1" screws into your 5/4 top.
Doug Miller wrote:

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"The design doesn't allow for a skirt."
OK, then, mortise and tenon with dowels, too. To secure tenons in mortises. Lots of interest and lots of stability & strength.
Rabbit out the legs to allow "the box" to recess into the legs which will add strength and stability again as well as an interesting construction detail.

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