Being both a novice woodworker and new to this group, I hope you can
give me some advice on the best exterior wood glue. I'm making an
outdoor project of treated pine lumber that will be above ground, but
exposed to the elements. Because I live in the deep south the project
will be exposed to almost daily rains, extreme heat, and sun.
What do y'all recommend?
Because of the initial high moisture content, and the cycling of
I'll suggest that the very best adhesive might succeed only in tearing
the wood apart, where the glued surface is more tightly bonded than
the surrounding layers of wood.
Wood changes dimension, depending on species and orientation relative
to grain, very much in response to moisture changes. If you can
it from this, like with paint, shading, internal ventilation,
you might have a chance, depending on joint used and grain
I'd pass on glue, while maybe trying some experiments on small pieces,
with epoxy, urethane, yellow glues. Pay attention to grain orientation
joints- dimension changes are almost entirely in the plane
to the axis.
Depending on the treatment used on the wood, your only choice may be
stainless-steel fasteners. Many fasteners fail rapidly with current
Thu, Aug 30, 2007, 7:55am (EDT-1) firstname.lastname@example.org (Cooniedog) doth
<snip> the project will be exposed to almost daily rains, extreme heat,
What do y'all recommend?
What is life without challenge and a constant stream of new
- Peter Egan
Tite bond 2 for most projects, Poly when I need it to be waterproof, E-6000
for multimedia glue ups or non wood glue ups. For treated wood metal
fastners. Do very little with treated wood and don't know a lot about it.
Ordinarily, Titebond III is considered an excellent choice for outdoor
use. BUT, water-based glues don't work well with treated lumber
because the wood won't soak up the glue. I'd use a polyurethane glue
such as Gorilla Glue if it's outdoor furniture you're building.
Liquid Nails makes a construction adhesive specifically for treated
lumber. I'd use that if it's for a carpentry type project. But in
either case I'd still use mechanical fasteners too. Stainless steel
screws if you can get them locally (Home Depot carries some about 1.5
inches long). Deck screws if you can't find stainless. Treated wood
EATS uncoated screws. Treated wood usually is soaking wet when you
get it. Some of it will splatter when you hit it with a hammer. Use
it quickly, before it has a chance to warp. Fasten it securely so it
will resist warping as it dries. Allow it to dry in the shade if
possible. When the sun draws moisture from the top of the board so
much faster than the bottom, ugly things happen sometimes.
"There's a heap o' difference between doing things right and doing the
Treated pine doesn't glue well and an outdoor piece is going to
require really careful design so that wood movement doesn't tear apart
You'll find that the mechanical hardware for building decks is
designed specifically to allow a certain amount of movement.
For joints where the grain on both pieces is going in the same
direction I'd go with an epoxy or resorcinol glue. Where the grain
crosses best bet IMO would be to make the joint with a little
clearance and use a polyurethane caulk instead of a conventional
glue--the caulk's flexible enough that it will give a little when the
wood moves, but the downside is that unless you're really careful with
the joint design the piece is going to seem wobbly all the time, and
the joint will never be as strong as a conventionally glued joint.
The PT pine must be dry to use Waterproof woodworkers glue. I use
Elmers Exterior glue and it has been working well so far--holding
together outdoors (in e. TN) for over 16 years. Drying PT wood takes
time--I like to dry it in the basement for several months. Despite
clamps, some pieces will split, warp, crack, wane and bow. If you can
find some dry PT wood, all the better. Dry wood glues up and finishes
well. A good finish and a little maintenance will extend the life of
an outdoor project.
FIY I have been enjoying kiln dried PT lumber for a year or so. Its price
is marginally more expensive than the wet stuff from the same supplier. In
addition to the lumber being straighter and less prone to warp it is also
consistently lighter in weight.
As you know, Montalbano won't let you pick your material and so it's
common occurrence to get stuck with more than your fair share of twisted,
warped, and bowed (not to mention BIG ugly knots) material.
And Bison. Let's just say I'd rather have my chest cracked than deal
with Bison (though you know I DO deal with them when I absolutely,
positively HAVE TO match a piece of molding). How many times have you taken
10 or 15 minutes to purchase at Bison and then wait 30-40-50 minutes for
them to bring you the wrong stuff? But, hey! Their new website is a big
improvement! http://www.bisonbuilding.com /
Hmmm, I'm not sure Detering has treated lumber; composite maybe?
I'm OK with Stahlman's. They actually have No.1 treated (kiln-dried!).
And they let you drive your truck right back there in the sheds and pick out
your boards. You can't beat that.
Which Stahlman's do you buy from? I buy in Stafford, I live about 4 miles
from that store. I actually choose Stahlman's quite often when buying
construction grade material. I prefer to only handle the material one time
rather than pick it and put it on the cart, then load it on the truck, then
unload at the job site.
Stahlman's eliminates the first 2 steps. I generally buy more than needed
and do the picking and choosing at the job site. I return the overages and
they seem to prefer that rather than helping me pick and choose.
That's convenient for you and a welcome opportunity [I would imagine] to
avoid LeGrande Orange. As I am right at Beltway 8 and 290 I use the 59 and
Greenbriar location when and if. Depends sometimes where the job location
I used Gorilla Glue with PT wood last year. I built three decks. I
glued and screwed mitered corners of the handrails, steps and a few
other spots. The decks have survived a Manitoba winter -40 deg and
+ 100 Deg. F this summer along with more rain than I've seen in years.
No failures (yet).
Picture of deck at link below. Click on cabin 4.
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