bandsaw motor hi-jinx

All you electric motor heads out there: help!
I have a delta 28-280 bandsaw with a 1hp motor and a timberwolf 1/2" 3 tpi blade. I was cutting some 3" redwood when I noticed smoke escaping from the cabinet. Opened it up and applied the vacuum to the ports on the motor (there was no sawdust accumulation anywhere on the motor). I gave it a bit of a rest and finished the job at hand. No more smoke but now a stench resembling burnt insulation. At no time did the motor casing feel hot to the touch.
Thought I would impose on some experts before I started dismantling stuff. TIA.     twitch,     jo4hn
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"jo4hn" wrote:

If you are smelling burnt insulation, it is only a matter of time before the motor is history.
If you load the motor to full capacity, expect motor to die quickly.
Sounds like you either don't have an overload relay or it is defective.
Time to open the piggy bank
Lew
Lew
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On Wed, 15 Oct 2008 18:48:29 GMT, "Lew Hodgett"

I suppose that depends on the definition of "full capacity". I would not expect a continuous duty motor rated at "X" HP to die quickly if used to drive an "X" HP load.
Personally, I'd change that statement slightly to read "If you load the motor beyond its service rating, expect the motor to die quickly".
Tom Veatch Wichita, KS USA
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jo4hn wrote:

The first thing I'd check is to see if you melted the wax out of the start capacitor. If the motor overheats it's usually the first thing that happens and it does stink.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
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Will the motor still start even though the start capacitor has gotten too hot? Jim
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Jim wrote:

Possibly. If it's the case it depends on how bad the capacitor got fried.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
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Nova wrote:

Just for the heck of it, I have been looking for 1hp 1ph 1725 motors. Not that many around and Leeson seems to have a bad reputation. McMaster-Carr seems to be a good vendor. Any other ideas out there?
    j4
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"jo4hn" wrote:

Grainger.
Dayton is Grainger in house line.
1HP/1725/56H/TEFC/Class B/SF=1.15/115/208/230
6K562 = Man 6K640 = Auto
Lew
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An Update
Manual reset overloads are used for machine tools.
Auto reset overloads are normally used on special applications where auto restart is not a problem such as exhaust fans, sump pumps, etc.

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jo4hn wrote:

Dayton, Baldor, etc. have good reps. Anybody have experience with Marathon? Leeson? others? TIA
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I tried the cheep way out when mine died It never worked right and the better motor shops didn't want to touch it Stick with a baldor or dayton as others have said The can be pricy though.
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wrote:

Have had a Leeson 5HP on my cyclone for a couple of years now. It's given me no reason to complain.
Tom Veatch Wichita, KS USA
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jo4hn wrote:

Got the motor out and noticed a lot of sticky goop (whoa! technical term!) oozing out from the capacitor cover. Sure enough, the cap lost its goop (exgoopuinated?). Some of it got into the innards which is what caused the smoke and stench. Sent an email off to the manufacturer (Aerovox Corp) to see what can be done if anything. Will keep you posted.     dang,     jo4hn
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"jo4hn" wrote:

Depending on age, that "goop" could contain PCBs, definitely a hazmat item.
(It's been banned for almost 30 years)
Lew
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Lew Hodgett wrote:

look for a complete list of ingredients for this stuff. It is a clear, very sticky substance that requires mineral spirits to clean up. And the bandsaw and presumably the motor are maybe 10 years old.
    j4
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"jo4hn" wrote:

Sounds like you are good to go.
The electrical industry has made great efforts to eliminate PCBs starting in the mid '70s.
The gov't offered some incentives<grin>
Lew
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jo4hn wrote:

It's what I figured as I've toasted a few.
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Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
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wrote:

If the voltage and capacity printed on the case of the defunct capacitor is legible you should be able to get a replacement locally for (guessing) under $10. It's been a while since I bought a start capacitor, but as I recall they are fairly inexpensive. They come in many different physical sizes and shapes, so you'll need to match physical size as well as electrical ratings.
If you decide to replace the cap yourself, you should be sure the centrifugal switch that cuts the capacitor in and out of the circuit is functional. That switch operates to take the capacitor off line when the motor reaches about 75% (IIRC) of rated RPM. Since the start capacitor is not rated for continuous duty, if the switch doesn't operate, a minute or so after the motor starts, you'll need to replace the capacitor again.
Tom Veatch Wichita, KS USA
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