band saw tuning frequency

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Your saw is a lot better than mine (ridgid) but I tune mine at blade changes and it seems fine.. Not familiar with guide bearings, mine has the old type blocks, which I threw away and out Cool Blocks in.. Are you adjusting the guides for blade side to side clearance or front to back? If it's side to side, you may be starting with them to tight or not centering the blade.. If it's front to back, the tracking might be the culprit, or play in the height adjusting arm?
My saw has thumb screws to lock settings, what does the Griz use?
mac
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Doug wrote:

By chance are you using Grizzly's blades? I ask as when I first got my Grizzly G1019 bandsaw I couldn't cut 4" of pine without problems. Switching to a different manufactures blade made a world of difference.
I recommend Suffolk "Timberwolf", Highland Hardware's "Woodslicer" or Olsen "All-Pro" blades.
http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/1_2_blades.asp
http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=PRODSEARCH&txtSearch=woodslicer&btnSearch=GO&Page=1
http://www.olsonsaw.com/ap.html
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
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Hi Doug, First, let me say that when this group first started, you got helpful tips in any answer. But like everything online, has been corrupted by the BS clowns. Now in answer to your question. Almost every you use your band, is probably a good tune up time. Invest in a good blade for each type of cut. Like 1/8" for short radius, 1/4' for curves and 1/2" for ripsaw etc. These are for my use. You have to decide for your purposes. I've found that Timberwolf (low tension)blades serve me well. You will see a difference with any Quality blade over the discount crap. No matter which blade you settle on, when you are done for the day, always remove the tension from the blade. Never leave it set for days under tension without being run. This will create a permanent bend that will cause different problems with future uses and not allow adjustments that last. So this is why I say, you should do a minor tune each time you use it.

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