band saw tuning frequency

Band saw tuning frequency?

I tune mine to B#... :D!

======> You might ask Dan Rather who is considered an expert on frequencies!

Leif

The man asked a legitimate question. Help him out!

He needs to talk to Kenneth.

Power is not the problem. The blade is a 3/8, hook 3-4 tpi?? Seems appropriate for the task

If the guides are moving, they are crap and should be replaced with bolts that stay put.

Have you locked the guide bearings in place? Is your blade sharp? Have you checked to see if your blade is at the proper tension? A quick tune up never hurts and often finds the problem.

Oops! DS made me do it! *G* Actually quite a number of issues can be involved, either singly or in combination. First this that comes to mind is are your cabriolet legs curves to small a radius for the 3/8's blade. I believe the minimum radius for your blade would be 1 inch? Also are your blade guides upper and lower firmly locked in place by your setscrews/bolts? What about the back guide? Is that set to the proper spacing? Tension according to blade mfgr's specs? I had a problem with my 14 inch BS until I switched out some pulleys and reset the motor for 240 operation. Many things to drive one mad! *G*

Leif

You better C# or you'll Bb

I don't think so. Isn't that Larry King, the King of Toots?

Could be lots of things. A narrow blade (1/8") should help. You can round off the back part of the blade using a stone or file. This will help get into tighter curves. A complete tuneup does wonders for a bandsaw. Perhaps you may be cutting too fast--slowing down makes a big difference.

There shouldn't be any tight curves on a cabriole leg, certainly none tight enough to need a 1/8" blade. 1/4" or 3/8" should do fine.

I think you may be on the money, though, when you look to cutting speed as a possible explanation.

OK, I'm a "newbie" to my 14" Delta BS (had a SEARS 12" tilting table b4) and all this talk of "Tune Up" has me wondering exactly what is meant by it?

Are there a series of basic steps one follows ?

Are there specific parts to replace?

From the responses, it appears there may be levels of BS Tune Up

The switch to 240VAC sounds like a "special" on," for instance.

Is this something that would be listed in the Manual? mayb a "Trouble Shooting) table of Problems and Solutions?

I agree - tuning to B# is really the same thing a tuning to C, and although a sharp band saw is a thing to be desired, band saws just simply are not C's. They're more generally O's.

I like the ceramic push bearings (they go behind the blade, instead of the sides). I had a metal bearing, but it kept getting dirt in them, and would stop spinning, and then would start wearing a groove in them.

There are a series of steps that have to be done every time you change the blades. This is adjusting the bearings and guides, etc. The tracking sould be adjusted as well. I first get the tracking done, then adjust the guides to fit where the blades end up.

Your saw is a lot better than mine (ridgid) but I tune mine at blade changes and it seems fine.. Not familiar with guide bearings, mine has the old type blocks, which I threw away and out Cool Blocks in.. Are you adjusting the guides for blade side to side clearance or front to back? If it's side to side, you may be starting with them to tight or not centering the blade.. If it's front to back, the tracking might be the culprit, or play in the height adjusting arm?

My saw has thumb screws to lock settings, what does the Griz use?

mac

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All of the above should be in your manual... on the Ridgid, it's under "setting up your saw..

mac

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