I have the grizzly 14" "Ultimate" bandsaw and I am working on my first
cabriole legs. I was making shaped cuts out of 4" white oak and for
some reason, the saw just will not seem to stay tuned. I can seemingly
never get through a complete cut before the thing starts whining and
next thing I know I need to readjust the guide bearings. Is this a
technique problem? poor quality guides, not enough blade tension, or
just to be expected?
Oops! DS made me do it! *G* Actually quite a number of issues can be
involved, either singly or in combination. First this that comes to mind is
are your cabriolet legs curves to small a radius for the 3/8's blade. I
believe the minimum radius for your blade would be 1 inch? Also are your
blade guides upper and lower firmly locked in place by your setscrews/bolts?
What about the back guide? Is that set to the proper spacing? Tension
according to blade mfgr's specs? I had a problem with my 14 inch BS until I
switched out some pulleys and reset the motor for 240 operation. Many
things to drive one mad! *G*
Could be lots of things. A narrow blade (1/8") should help. You can
round off the back part of the blade using a stone or file. This will
help get into tighter curves. A complete tuneup does wonders for a
bandsaw. Perhaps you may be cutting too fast--slowing down makes a
There shouldn't be any tight curves on a cabriole leg, certainly none tight
enough to need a 1/8" blade. 1/4" or 3/8" should do fine.
I think you may be on the money, though, when you look to cutting speed as a
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
OK, I'm a "newbie" to my 14" Delta BS (had a SEARS 12" tilting table
b4) and all this talk of "Tune Up" has me wondering exactly what is
meant by it?
Are there a series of basic steps one follows ?
Are there specific parts to replace?
From the responses, it appears there may be levels of BS Tune Up
The switch to 240VAC sounds like a "special" on," for instance.
Is this something that would be listed in the Manual? mayb a "Trouble
Shooting) table of Problems and Solutions?
There are a series of steps that have to be done every time you change
the blades. This is adjusting the bearings and guides, etc. The
tracking sould be adjusted as well. I first get the tracking done,
then adjust the guides to fit where the blades end up.
I like the ceramic push bearings (they go behind the blade, instead of
the sides). I had a metal bearing, but it kept getting dirt in them,
and would stop spinning, and then would start wearing a groove in them.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.