Band Saw Blade Length

Page 1 of 2  
My 10" band saw uses 72 5/8" inch blades.
Can I use a 73" Woodslicer blade and just turn the tension knob a little "tighter" than the tension mark on the case?
Is 3/8" too much to compensate for?
The other option is 72", I'm not sure I can loosen the saw up enough to get that small of a blade on the wheels.
Thanks.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 12/17/11 8:49 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

Yes.
--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I figure someone would ask that. :-)
The presenter said something to the effect of "with a reasonable amount of pressure, like pushing with your finger until the tip turns white."
I'm familiar with this technique because I used to check the tension of the steering cables on my kid's Soap Box Derby cars by pulling the cables sideways, looking for a specific amount of deflection. When people would see me doing it while holding my tape measure against the side of the car they always wondered what the heck I was doing. When I'd explain it to them and then let them try it, they really liked the technique. You just had to get the feel for that "reasonable" amount of pulling tension.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
DerbyDad03 wrote:

Another way - which I prefer - is to tension it to the point that it no longer flutters.
--

dadiOH
____________________________
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 12/18/2011 6:25 AM, dadiOH wrote:

I agree, but I use the plucked sound as a point of beginning. C3 Bflat is not bad for beginning and tighten until the blade runs true. This works no matter which blade you use.
--


___________________________________

Keep the whole world singing . . .
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 12/18/2011 10:14 AM, DanG wrote:

I knew you were going to say that. (a fellow Barbershopper)(Bass)
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 12/18/2011 9:41 AM, Chuck wrote:

Basses are a dime a dozen. I'm one also. OKC, OK. You?
--


___________________________________

Keep the whole world singing . . .
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 12/18/2011 12:55 PM, DanG wrote:

Palm Beach Coastmen, Fl.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

And the notes to remember when crossing the street?
C-sharp or B-flat
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
DerbyDad03 wrote:

I like that one.
--
Gerald Ross

It's kind of fun to do the impossible.
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 12/17/2011 8:49 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

NO! Typically the tension indicator does not move until there is resistance on the upper wheel so you do not want to over tension the blade, you use the same blade tension on a longer blade as you do a shorter blade.
The question here is if you can fit a 73" blade in place of the 72 5/8". Maybe. Mount your regular blade and tighten the tension until there is a small amount of tension. Mark the location height of the upper wheel. Remove the blade and relocate the upper wheel to the previously marked position. Now see if you can raise the upper wheel 1/2 of the difference in length of the two blades. If you can raise it at leas hald that distance the longer blade should work. And remember just because the blade is longer you do not add more tension.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

re: "Typically the tension indicator does not move until there is resistance on the upper wheel".
As I posted earlier, an my band saw there's a big washer on the tension shaft and a line on the housing with the words Tension Set next to it.
As soon as you turn the tension knob to move the wheel up or down, the washer moves with the wheel, even with no blade installed.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 12/18/2011 12:28 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

Ohhhhh! Then refer to my second part to see if the longer blade will fit.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I suspect not. My cheap band saw requires 56 1/8". I bought a Sears 56 3/4". It would not work, not enough travel in the tenchioning screw.
Mike in Ohio
On 12/17/2011 09:49 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I googled 75 5/8 it appears that many places are selling the correct length blades. Are you not able to purchase locally?
On 12/18/2011 01:11 PM, Michael Kenefick wrote:

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

umm...that would be 72 5/8", not 75 5/8".
Yes, they too are probably available, and I know that I can have them made at a local Saw and Knife shop.
However, since the Woodslicer blades have been given good reviews in this forum, and the 73" should fit, I'm going to give them a try.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Your length difference was 5/8", mine is only 3/8".
I just took the blade off my saw and was able to adjust the tension knob such that the indicator was more than a 1/2" beyond it's normal setting.
I won't need that much with a blade that's only 3/8" longer than the standard.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 12/18/11 12:11 PM, Michael Kenefick wrote:

Big difference between the lengths of those blades. Also, 5/8" difference on a 56" blade would probably equate to over an inch difference on a 73" blade. I would also guess that the distance of travel of the the tensioner on your saw is 1/4 to 1/3 the distance of a 73" length saw.
--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
"Michael Kenefick" wrote in message
I suspect not. My cheap band saw requires 56 1/8". I bought a Sears 56 3/4". It would not work, not enough travel in the tenchioning screw.
Mike in Ohio
On 12/17/2011 09:49 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Make it easy on yourself. Do what I and every other professional I know does when needing a band saw blade. Go down to your local industrial supply, tell them what you want and they will take it off the coil, cut it to length and weld it together. There, exactly what you want. Why make it so hard?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Been there, done that.
Gotta admit though...posting my question in this forum and then ordering a couple of blades online really wasn't that hard. ;-)
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Site Timeline

Related Threads

    HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.