When I had a 220V circuit added for my shop I had the electrician put in
an outlet at a convenient location and told him I wanted a 20ft. cord. I
move the cord wherever I need it. I purchased one of those rubber/plastic
covers that sits flat on the floor and protects the cord. There are
better ways to do this but this one is convenient and, I think, safe. As
posters have said in this thread, you could make the cord yourself as long
as you get the right materials and plugs.
You don't need to spend the money for a heavy duty extension cord. As
Rich said in his post, wiring for 220 means your tools will be drawing
half the current they do now. Even a cheap 16 gauge cord would likely
handle your bandsaw. A 14 gauge would handle your tablesaw very
More voltage = less current. That's why super-high voltage
transmission lines can supply electricity for thousands of households
and businesses with relatively skinny wires.
Josh your absolutely correct. The main reason I recommend a heavy duty cord
is more for wear resistance than current capability. A good heavy duty cord
from the borg costs around $25.00 and will last allot longer in a shop
Sure you can. And no, you can put an extension
cord in anything you like. As part of the house
wiring (which an extension cord isn't) you likely
need to ground the conduit. You're a wood worker,
so route a extension cord diameter slot in a piece
of 1by to cover the cord. If it were me, and I
have already done it, I wouldn't surface mount a
piece of regular house cable 10-12 gauge and cover
it with a protective wood cover, as above.
I have a two-headed extension cord that feeds my BS and jointer. It cost me
about $20 in material to make. If you have an electrical supply place near
by they have some much nicer stuff than the borg. They had some really nice
heavy weight (10 or 12 gauge) with a thick but soft plyable rubber outer
casing that makes a very nice tool cord. IIRC is was only 27cents/ft.
The female end is just a metal box with two 220V recepticles. Simple an
What I have elected to do is to install a single duplex NEMA 6-20R
receptacle in the wall.
12-2+G to the receptacle.
20 A breaker for the branch circuit.
Each machine has a long cordset, usually SOOW (extreme service, oil and
water resistant), and a NEMA 6-15P or 6-20P, as required.
I do have a couple of "extension cords", 6-20P to 6-20R, 12-2+G SOOW
for special cases (table saw outside cutting dozens of boards).
SOOW is also available in #10 (down to #2, actually).
The 240 volt receptacle I use is a Hubbell 5462 (also subbed by Leviton
and others), which is an all-nylon extreme service type. These accept
both NEMA 6-15 and 6-20 plugs.
For 120 volts, I use a Hubbell 5262 receptacles, also an all-nylon
extreme service type.
Expect to pay about $16, list, for a 5462 (about half that for a 5262),
but also expect these to last a lifetime.
My electrical contractor association gave me a pdf of the 2005
electrical code. I can post it on ABPW, or e-mail it to someone that
can host it. It is almost 5 megs. My e-mail is bogus on this
account.. If there is an interest let me know, but I think it might
be to big to post to the binary gorup.
I would assume so as I usually buy it every 3 years in several forms.
I assume they must have gotten permission to distribute it. Its on my
work computer so I'll have to look maybe I'm not allowed to share it.
On Mon, 20 Mar 2006 18:21:34 GMT, firstname.lastname@example.org (Scott Lurndal)
Since there has only been one request to post and a strong question as
to if its proper I won't be posting which should save a lot of band
On Tue, 21 Mar 2006 13:36:15 -0500, email@example.com wrote:
Heh, I don't think there's any question about it. :)
Although, if, as someone said, they only needed page so-and-so, it'd be
"fair use" to copy that one page to a .pdf file to send or post.
To be "fairer", you might want to underline the relevant passage first,
put an exclamation point by it, and perhaps a note linking it tothe
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