Did you purchase it as an extension cord or did you fabricate it yourself?
Do you protect it with anything? Flexible conduit?
I'm just a little squeamish of a high voltage cord on the floor of the shop.
Naaa.. it's just 220 volt. The rest of the world run their entire
households on 220. We're talking toasters, TV's, every-day stuff.
The US and Canada, and perhaps a small province in Africa are the only
ones running on 110 AFAIK.
Have you ever tried to cut a 10 gauge 'cord' to make an extension?
That's enforced, tough stuff.
No worries, stoutperson, although a healthy respect for anything over 12
volts is wise.
I was in a sporting goods store about umm 20 years ago and spied a 69 volt
battery. It was about 12" long and 2" square. The positive and negative
terminals were on top and unshielded.
Naturally I put my finger across both terminals and said bad words loudly.
Never peed on one, but once as a teen hunting, I did come up from
under a barbed wire fence in the brush and placed my sweaty
forehead nice & tight against a wire fence just as the pulser
turned on. I thought my buddy had clubbed my with his gun butt!
And was ready to aim my gun at him until I saw the confused look
on his face! What an experience!
Live & learn; if you're lucky enough.
Ever been to a rock concert? An outdoor event with large scale PA systems?
A carnival? Ever notice those big thick black electrical cords that
everyone is trudgin over? Tens of thousands of feet daily. Laying in mud
Get the right stuff and your fears will be moot. You don't need the same
heavy cords that I just referenced but the point is that armor cladding is
not necessary for what you're doing. Talk to an electrician. Go to an
electrical supply house - a real one. Tell them what you're looking to do
and ask them what the properly rated insulation would be for you.
I'm sure someone here can tell you. There are some real live electricians
here and there are some hacks like me who know a few to a lot of things.
Sometimes ya takes yer chances with the advice you see here because you
don't always know who really knows what they're talking about and who is
just talking. Go to a pro and you'll stand your best chance of getting the
If you're squeamish I don't understand why you would ask a question like
this of a woodworking group. Squeamish is good, but why not go to the right
source and then you'll really know.
You're a little vague on the requirements, but you can either purchase or
make your own extension cord for 220V. Just be sure to use the proper plugs
and receptacles for that voltage and the proper wire gauge for the current
draw of the tools and the length of the cord.
You don't necessarily need to run the wire inside metal conduit, unless you
want the added protection from mechanical abuse that such treatment would
afford. It would be best to ground that conduit on the off chance that the
hot wire shorted to it. Fred
I ran a 220v outlet (protected with a 15A breaker)to my garage from my
service panel using 10/3 romex. This supplied power to my 3 hp cabinet
saw and 15 inch planer. I purchased a 10 ga. extension cord that was
rated heavy enough to handle the 220v current and put converted the ends
to 15a. 250v plug and receptacle. My 220 line from the service panel
terminates at a single outlet about 10 feet away. I use the extension
cord then to supply the power to whichever piece of equipment I need to
use. It is absolutely essential to have an equipment ground back to
your service panel. As long as your outlet is grounded, there is no
need to run your extension cord through conduit unless you think there
is some danger of damaging the cord. I never leave my extension cord
plugged in when I leave the shop and it is never subjected to an
environment that could cause damage to it. I will say that my
installation is temporary until I get my shop built. A permanent
installation would be done differently.
Here's a thought for your rewire: Consider a set of switches
near the door to control Main Power to the shop. That way when
you leave the shop you can kill the majority of power to it from
those switches. That way there aren't so many things to "check"
as you leave, and you can kill it all from right there.
Especially handy for the lights and most, not all, ckts can
usually be done that way.
I used a couple or relays to prevent adding long wire runs
just to have the switches. Best case, IMO, would be to use
relays for all of it and a doorbell xfmr to control the relays;
easier to wire and no added wire lengths.
Lines I didn't switch, I added a nightlight to one outlet. I
hate having to go into the shop to see if I turned everything
220 of course, well, that shouldn't be switched IMO.
In short, Go to the borg and buy a 25' heavy duty 10ga extension cord. Hard
wire it to the TS and put a 220v plug on the other end. A 10ga 3conductor
cord at 220v can handle 35amps, way more than a TS will need. Remember
voltage doesn't determiine the size of the wire you need, amperage does. An
average 110v 1hp motor draws approx 15amps at 3450rpm. All hings being
equal a 220v 1hp motor draws 7.5amps. See the point? I strongly recommend
against using metal conduit. If you did you'd definitely need to ground it
for safety. With my jointer, I keep the wire coiled up until I need it so it
doesn't get ruined. If you looking at a semi permanent install, and really
want to use conduit, then use hard conduit not flexible. There would be less
chance of damaging the cable inside.
And for the guy who thinks the question is too technical for this NG,
remember almost everyone here has a day job too. Mine has been 21 years in
the Navy as an electronics technician and special warfare operator... This
electrical stuff is childs play for me, the woodworking kicks my butt
though, but I'm learning.
"stoutman" <.@.> wrote in message
I don't think Pop5 was suggesting people in the NG could not answer the
question. I think he was commenting on how the question was asked. I
believe his point was if you don't know how to ask the question you're not
going to understand the answer.
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