Another Electrical question

[stoutman]

As I posted in another thread I am wiring my garage for 220V for my new bandsaw. I will eventually be buying a new table saw in the future (once SWBO forgets about the bandsaw purchase).

I am trying to determine how I would feed the TS power from the same outlet. Of course I will not be running the two at the same time. I'm not as think as you stupid I am!

Could I make my own extension cord from #10 and run it through some flexible conduit? Does the metal flexible conduit need to be grounded?

Thanks

[PopS]

The wording of your post indicates you need more technical expertise than you can gain here. Call in someone with experience.

[Leon]

I just have a 30' #10-3 extension cord that I run to my 220 volt tools as I need them.

[stoutman]

Really??

Don't underestimate the electrical expertise of this group.

[Fred Toewe]

You're a little vague on the requirements, but you can either purchase or make your own extension cord for 220V. Just be sure to use the proper plugs and receptacles for that voltage and the proper wire gauge for the current draw of the tools and the length of the cord.

You don't necessarily need to run the wire inside metal conduit, unless you want the added protection from mechanical abuse that such treatment would afford. It would be best to ground that conduit on the off chance that the hot wire shorted to it. Fred

[stoutman]

Did you purchase it as an extension cord or did you fabricate it yourself? Do you protect it with anything? Flexible conduit?

I'm just a little squeamish of a high voltage cord on the floor of the shop.

[Martie in MO]

I ran a 220v outlet (protected with a 15A breaker)to my garage from my service panel using 10/3 romex. This supplied power to my 3 hp cabinet saw and 15 inch planer. I purchased a 10 ga. extension cord that was rated heavy enough to handle the 220v current and put converted the ends to 15a. 250v plug and receptacle. My 220 line from the service panel terminates at a single outlet about 10 feet away. I use the extension cord then to supply the power to whichever piece of equipment I need to use. It is absolutely essential to have an equipment ground back to your service panel. As long as your outlet is grounded, there is no need to run your extension cord through conduit unless you think there is some danger of damaging the cord. I never leave my extension cord plugged in when I leave the shop and it is never subjected to an environment that could cause damage to it. I will say that my installation is temporary until I get my shop built. A permanent installation would be done differently.

Martie

[Robatoy]

Naaa.. it's just 220 volt. The rest of the world run their entire households on 220. We're talking toasters, TV's, every-day stuff. The US and Canada, and perhaps a small province in Africa are the only ones running on 110 AFAIK.

Have you ever tried to cut a 10 gauge 'cord' to make an extension? That's enforced, tough stuff.

No worries, stoutperson, although a healthy respect for anything over 12 volts is wise.

r

[todd]

Good Lord, man....it's 220, not the transformer primary on the floor ;-). If it was me, I'd consider just wiring another outlet on the same circuit.

todd

[Leon]

I made it my self.

Well it is actually only 2, 110 volts lines running in the same insulation. The rubber insulation is very tough. 6 years old and looks like new.

[Leon]

I was in a sporting goods store about umm 20 years ago and spied a 69 volt battery. It was about 12" long and 2" square. The positive and negative terminals were on top and unshielded. Naturally I put my finger across both terminals and said bad words loudly. :~)

[Rich]

In short, Go to the borg and buy a 25' heavy duty 10ga extension cord. Hard wire it to the TS and put a 220v plug on the other end. A 10ga 3conductor cord at 220v can handle 35amps, way more than a TS will need. Remember voltage doesn't determiine the size of the wire you need, amperage does. An average 110v 1hp motor draws approx 15amps at 3450rpm. All hings being equal a 220v 1hp motor draws 7.5amps. See the point? I strongly recommend against using metal conduit. If you did you'd definitely need to ground it for safety. With my jointer, I keep the wire coiled up until I need it so it doesn't get ruined. If you looking at a semi permanent install, and really want to use conduit, then use hard conduit not flexible. There would be less chance of damaging the cable inside.

And for the guy who thinks the question is too technical for this NG, remember almost everyone here has a day job too. Mine has been 21 years in the Navy as an electronics technician and special warfare operator... This electrical stuff is childs play for me, the woodworking kicks my butt though, but I'm learning. Rich Harris

[Billy Smith]

When I had a 220V circuit added for my shop I had the electrician put in an outlet at a convenient location and told him I wanted a 20ft. cord. I just move the cord wherever I need it. I purchased one of those rubber/plastic covers that sits flat on the floor and protects the cord. There are probably better ways to do this but this one is convenient and, I think, safe. As other posters have said in this thread, you could make the cord yourself as long as you get the right materials and plugs.

[Rumpy]

I don't think Pop5 was suggesting people in the NG could not answer the question. I think he was commenting on how the question was asked. I believe his point was if you don't know how to ask the question you're not going to understand the answer.

[stoutman]

I think I asked the question correctly because my question was answered.

And yes, I understood the answer.

Thanks for caring! :)

[stoutman]

One more thing: If you can not comprehend my question, by God don't answer it!

I don't want electrical advice from someone that can't understand a simple question.

[Josh]

You don't need to spend the money for a heavy duty extension cord. As Rich said in his post, wiring for 220 means your tools will be drawing half the current they do now. Even a cheap 16 gauge cord would likely handle your bandsaw. A 14 gauge would handle your tablesaw very easily.

More voltage = less current. That's why super-high voltage transmission lines can supply electricity for thousands of households and businesses with relatively skinny wires.

Josh

stoutman wrote:

[George E. Cawthon]

Sure you can. And no, you can put an extension cord in anything you like. As part of the house wiring (which an extension cord isn't) you likely need to ground the conduit. You're a wood worker, so route a extension cord diameter slot in a piece of 1by to cover the cord. If it were me, and I have already done it, I wouldn't surface mount a piece of regular house cable 10-12 gauge and cover it with a protective wood cover, as above.

[PopS]

Nope, I don't; I do however sometimes worry about the ability of some to follow/understand the expertise on this board. Any work with electrical components requires some fundamental understanding of its working and the attendent safety requirements.

The expertise here for the most part is VG to EX.

Pop

[PopS]

Here's a thought for your rewire: Consider a set of switches near the door to control Main Power to the shop. That way when you leave the shop you can kill the majority of power to it from those switches. That way there aren't so many things to "check" as you leave, and you can kill it all from right there. Especially handy for the lights and most, not all, ckts can usually be done that way. I used a couple or relays to prevent adding long wire runs just to have the switches. Best case, IMO, would be to use relays for all of it and a doorbell xfmr to control the relays; easier to wire and no added wire lengths. Lines I didn't switch, I added a nightlight to one outlet. I hate having to go into the shop to see if I turned everything off. 220 of course, well, that shouldn't be switched IMO.