Well, It looks as if by moving the water trap 6ft away from the tank I have
stopped my water vapor in its tracks. For painting anyway, I still get
noticable water in the air tools, but only if the compressor is running
continuous. I can see that in the near future I will be running steel pipe
to my main work area then putting in a second water trap.
So, for painting and sandblasting purposes my current configuration is
working well enough. I got a nice finish on my camper today and plan on
painting the top tomorrow.
Another thought is that todays humidity level was only 43%. That may
have also helped with the painting.
I have a large water trap approximately 20' from my
compressor. I run a flexible 25' 3/8" line to my
sandblasting pot which has a water trap as well. I
haven't been able to do any sandblasting for over a
week now because of moisture. I have a drain in my
compressor which is a large 42 cfm four cylinder,
dual stage. Our humidity and dew point has been
very high during this time. I have the recommended
drains and elevations but still can't get beyond
the moisture problem. Guess I'll just have to wait
for some cooler, drier weather. This configuration
worked great for several days before the humid
weather moved in. sdh.
I know this subject has been beat to death but I'll venture in and offer
I manage operations for several auto dealerships and we have some twenty air
compressors including some specifically for our painting operations.
In the paint booths we use refrigerated air dryers. They dry the air
completely. However, in all other applications, I have designed a
non-refrigerated air dryer system. Its very simply and I use it at my home
shop as well.
Simply install 4 sets of 3/4" iron pipe in 7'-8' sections vertically (up
and down) against a shaded wall inside out as long as it's in the shade all
day. Install a 6" drip leg at the bottom of each section with a ball valve.
This creates a simple condenser that relies on air and wall temperature to
cool the air and condense the moisture.
From your compressor, run a line (flex line or otherwise) to the condenser.
At the end of the home-made condenser, install a filter/dryer, then plumb
the rest of your system or simply connect directly to the filter/dryer.
Drain your compressor at the end of each day and drain the drip legs as
well. You will have sufficiently dry air with no other issues. I do NOT
recommend PCV or copper pipe or will I get into any debates on thier merits.
Copper is no longer allowed by code for gas pipes in most localities--some
folks I know found out why the hard way. Perhaps that's what he has in
mind. But those considerations shouldn't apply for shop air--if the pipe
breaks nothing particularly terrible happens.
Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
What's the problem with copper? In my old dive shop days, I can remember many
shops used copper tubing for pressures up to 2475 psi. I never did as my
compressor could crank out 5000 psi at 15 cfm; we used stainless steel tubing
instead. But copper was common throughout the industry (at least back in the
1970s and 1980s).
I can't remember ever hearing of a fitting letting go or tubing failing.
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