Both the hot and cold water are milky at all points.
It is a new, Goulds, Hydro Pro, submersible pump.
Is a "feedline" where the water leaves the well to
go into the basement, water tank?
Is this serious enough to call back the plumber?
How long has it been doing this? I'd give it a couple of days to settle
down. Getting air in a system is somewhat normal. When I change filter
cartridges in my house I get air for a half hour or so.
If it persists, it may be sucking air and water for some reason, like your
well is running dry.
I'd say OP definitely has an air intrusion somewhere and if this is new
pump and wasn't doing it before, time to call whoever did what back.
I've pulled and replaced pump and never had more than the entrained
(large) air to get out of the system when put it back in service.
Sounds to me like either there is an air leak somewhere or, perhaps the
new pump is of higher capacity (or not worn impellers) such that it is,
as you say, sucking air. If that's the case, definitely not a good
Need far more info/details, but I'd say call the pro, especially if it
was work done by them.
OBTW, pressure tank/pump in the system? There'd be another entrance
Other possibilities are the foot valve on the pump is not installed or
incorrectly installed or failed. The fact that you have air in the system
for more then a minute or two after the work is done leads me to believe
there is a problem that was either there before the pump was changed or was
created by the pump change...... Why did you decide to have the pump
changed? Also, is there a check valve installed just before the bladder
Reality check. I am putting it in your reply although it pretty well
is a reply to everyong in the thread.
He has a submersible pump. There is no footvalve in such a system
(there is perhapes a checkvalve built into the pump though).
Being a subersible, the pump can only be sucking air if the water level
drops below the pump intake, i.e., out of water.
I can see no way for air to be entering the system after the pump as
any leak will be going 'out' not in.
Outgassing is a possibility but if it wasn't happening before the pump
I, too, want to know why he changed the pump.
There was a natural source of water that went dry; the well
was dug; then the natural source of water returned, therefore
the well was never used. I purchased the house; hooked up
the well; at first use there was air; plumber said it will go
away; it did go away; now it is back (about 3 or so months
later; after new installation of connection; pump; tank; etc.)
Okay. The first time you hook up any system, you have a bunch of pipes
full of air. It may take a while for it to work out. Quite normal.
Your current air in the system sounds like one of two to me.
1. Low producing well that allows the intake to suck air at times.
2. Outgassing from the water. Depending on the source, outgassing can
be quite a bunch.
Does the cloudy water only occur after a period of drawing water (pump
sucking air) or is it there every time you turn on a tap (outgassing)?
Indicates the well is insufficient capacity for the pump/usage or
actually going dry. Not much you can do other than perhaps drop the
pump (assuming there is more hole below the installed depth and the
water table is reachable), deepen the existing well (assuming there is
water deeper), or cut usage or reduce pump capacity to within well
capacity or live with air (which, if of much magnitude or continuous
will likely shorten pump life).
All in all, sounds like you've got a real problem if need this well for
other than peripheral use.
I respectfully disagree. In submersable pumps there is usually some sort of
check valve (ie foot valve) at/on the pump. Otherwise what would prevent
the bladder tank from pushing the water out of the line back into the well
every time the pump turned off? Also another reason to have another check
valve installed in the hous just before the bladder tank - IMHO. If the
line was draining (losing prime?) every time the pump stopped I would think
that would cause air in the system. I would suggest watching the pressure
gauge at the bladder tank to see if the pressure drops when no water is
running. This would indicate either a leak or bad check valve. I agree it
might be the pump draws more then the capacity of the well, but if it was my
well I would want to check a few other things like this before I made that
Just my 2cents.
we work on water wells in maryland
most likely it is a problem with the check valve in the top of the pump
submersible pumps will not pump air when the well draws down to the
intake screen it will stop pumping water only a small amount of air
could enter as soon as the water flow into the pump stops the check
valve will close. the pump will not be able to prouduce enough air
pressure to open it when the water in the well rises enough it will
start pumping again. if this process takes too long it may cycle on the
a couple of questions i would ask the op is
do you notice more air first thing in the morning than any other time
of the day?
has your cold water gotten warm at anytime?
has the water gotten dirty at anytime?
I saw your response to an air problom with a well and wanted to ask a
question or two for my own situation.
I recently ran a lot of water out of my well. Approximately a week
later, I started getting air in the lines. First it was noticeable
with one toilet, then another, then some air in some of the faucets
throughout the house. It is most noticeable first thing in the morning
but can be heard at other times during the day. The water pressure
appears to be fine and it never appeared to be low. I have an artesian
well but I don't know much about them or any well for that matter.
Any ideas as to what may be causing this and what can be done to fix
Well, if you have an "Air over Water" tank then there is an "air level
control" on the side of the tank what will automatically vent excess air.
Usually the pressure gage is attacked to it. These do fail occasionally.
You can loosen the "nut and bolt" on the side to manually vent the air.
MAYBE when you put the small parts back together the valve will work
properly once again. If it doesn't you might have some problems getting a
replacement because "modern" installations use a diaphram type tank. You
will need a BIG pipe wrench to remove the valve body as the thread is
nominal 1 1/4" (which is about 2" diameter).
If you don't have an air/water tank you might have low water in the well
that let your pump pick up some air. (Not much as the pump just doesn't
pump "air" very well. It might get a little "froth" pass the check valve.)
The temporary "cure" is the same: vent out the air. The method is
different: you shut off the pump and open a faucet until the pressure
drops to zero. Toward the end, it should be all air. Turn the pump back
on. Repeat. If your pump is picking up a lot of air, it's time to call in
a "professional." Well professionals have a lot of experience. Drillers
might do 50 to 75 wells a year and "pullers" might pull 100-150 pumps or
more each year. Whatever your problem is, they have seen it before. If
you are going to pay to have your pump pulled you might want to consider
ordering what you want rather than what the "puller" usually stocks.
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