Getting a new furnace with air finally........
but the basement has water troubles, the base of the old furnace is
to facilitate the interior french drain install i am going to have to
remove or relocate my hot water tank temporarily for the drain work.
once finances recover a little i want to replace that heater which
currently vents up the chimney, to a sealed combustoion 95% condensing
heater. shopping for that today. DONT want a tankless!
anyone move a tank successfully? ours s over 7 years old, a 50 gallon
75,000 btu model.
if $ were no object i would replace it too right now but prefer to
wait till later this summer
On Tue, 17 Jun 2008 04:45:01 -0700, email@example.com wrote:
If you are able to install a new hot water heater, you certainly should
be able to move an existing one. Drain it to lighten the load.
Disconnect. Move. Reconnect. If you have all the fittings and parts,
should take half a day max.
my concern is my old heater springing a leak from being moved.
moving it will be no problem, its a temporary install, with flexible
lines ore a few days so french drain install and wall can be painted.
follow up the move went fine, drain installed.
connecting the tank back up took a couple hours, since the tank feed
lines had to be moved, for furnce install.
many years ago the original tank was behind the furnace.
new supply lines no longer rube goldberg:)
T&P valve dripped a little, hopefully that will clear up on its own.
If you have a dampness problem in the basement, don't let the installers sit
a new furnace directly on the floor. Mortar in four concrete bricks/blocks
to fit under the corners to lift it off the floor so that air can circulate
and reduce the rusting. At some point you may also want to add some plastic
sheets between the steel furnace shell and the concrete bricks to seal any
dampness that may soak through the brick. It will go a long way to reducing
rusting of the metal, you may also want to do the same for your new water
heater if it sits directly on the floor.
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