Advice Needed: TS Modifications to Mount Aftermarket Fence

Has anyone had to make modifications to their table saw to mount a Biesemeyer fence system (Commercial or Home Shop)? What's involved with the process? How difficult was it and did fence accuracy suffer any?
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I had to drill some 1/4" holes in the cast iron top of my DW746. It was pretty easy if you follow the directions. They include a little jig for setting the height of the mounting angle iron. All you do is clamp the front rail to the top with a couple of pipe clamps and get it lined up with the little jig, then drill the holes using the holes in the rail as a guide. Works pretty well. You could go back and drill them out a 32nd bigger if you really want the adjusability, but I found I didn't really need it. The back rail is not critical since the fence doesn't ride on it. Mine is a commercial with the long rails, BTW. An excellent upgrade, by the way.
Good Luck
Charlie

the
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On Thu, 09 Sep 2004 01:21:56 GMT, "philly45"

================ On a scale of 1 to 10 with 10 being difficult I rate the job as a 0.5 after 15 years of use the bies (home shop in my case) the accuracy is still dead on.....
All you have to do is drill a few holes in the cast iron tables of the saw... IF I remember correctly (and it has been a long time) I just used the rails as a template for the location of the holes.....
Simple job really...
Bob G
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Bob G responds:

Even without the template that comes with the Biese, it's an easy job to align and drill the holes. A couple of measurements does it.
Charlie Self "Men stumble over the truth from time to time, but most pick themselves up and hurry off as if nothing happened." Sir Winston Churchill
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I put a commercial 50" on my Delta 12/14" 18 months ago. It required drilling out a few holes and bolting it up.
(1) Buy the "best" metal bit you can find(no Walmart specials)
(2) Use a 1/2" drill with some guts.
(3) Have a friend over to work with clamping rail(s) in place. (front rail is fairly heavy)
(4) Drill holes slightly oversize and "expand" opening to allow for up/down adjustment.
(5) Take your time.
(6) Focus on keeping that drill and bit "dead level".
philly45 wrote:

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