90 Degree Angle Braces - $$$$$$$!!

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<http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?pageQ101&categoryQ&abspage=1&ccurrency=2&SID=>
or
http://tinyurl.com/5ed72
Why in the world are these brackets so expensive? Can they possibly be worth it?
JP
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<http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?pageQ101&categoryQ&abspage=1&ccurrency=2&SID=>
Because the metal ones are more expensive to manufacture than the plastic ones Rockler sells.
Can they possibly

IMHO a piece of plywood cut triangle shaped with a few holes cut through for the clamps to fit into works pretty well.
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Sat, Jan 8, 2005, 3:46pm (EST+5) snipped-for-privacy@swbell.net (Leon) says: <snip> IMHO a piece of plywood cut triangle shaped with a few holes cutthrough for the clamps to fit into works pretty well.
Yup. Or, if you wanted metal ones, be plenty easy to cut, and weld, some angle iron.
JOAT EVERY THING THAT HAPPENS STAYS HAPPENED. - Death
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Then, with your handy milling machine (everyone has one , right?) machine them strait and square in two axis.
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Sat, Jan 8, 2005, 1:02pm (EST-3) snipped-for-privacy@earthlink.net (CW) says: Then, with your handy milling machine (everyone has one , right?) machine them strait and square in two axis.
Well, no, actually. I had thought it would go without saying you'd take a bit of care, and get it right. Guess not.
Make a jig, to hold the pieces square for welding. Yes, you'd have to make sure the jig is square first. I'd make the jig from wood, of course. Angle hacksaw cut the angle Iron, butt the pieces in the jig, weld - gas, arc, MIG, TIG, whatever's available - brazing would work too. No prob if the angle cuts are a shade off, the sides are what's important, and they'll be aligned in the jig, the weld will hold them square. No prob. Wouldn't be bootiful, unless you painted 'em, but they'd be plenty accurate. If you wanted, you could smooth the welds a bit with a grinder, no milling machine required. Hell, if I had a millig machine, I could just make some from solid stock. No prob. You could probably even make some using silver solder, but that might get a bit pricey. It ain't rocket science.
JOAT EVERY THING THAT HAPPENS STAYS HAPPENED. - Death
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(CW) says:

I think you would be better off machining it after you welded it. The technique you describe is likely to induce warp in the piece and while it may be possible to weld with a technique to reduce the warpage, I doubt you could reasonably expect any technique to give you zero.
--

Roger Shoaf

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Sat, Jan 8, 2005, 10:30pm (EST-3) snipped-for-privacy@nospamsyix.com (RogerShoaf) says: I think you would be better off machining it after you welded it. The technique you describe is likely to induce warp in the piece and while it may be possible to weld with a technique to reduce the warpage, I doubt you could reasonably expect any technique to give you zero.
Well, I'm not about to got into a buchch of "how I'd do it", and variables include type of joining used, angle iron thickness, etc.. But, yeah, I expect I could do it without warping, and no machining. Not in 30 seconds, but doable close enuogh to zero as to not matter - then you paint it yellow. I figure most people here could, after a bit of practice. Then there's always the 10% that couldn't do it with a robot welder.
But, I doubt I'd do it, I'd probably just use plywood, as described by someone else. Faster, easier, cheaper, just as accurate.
JOAT Success is getting what you want. Happiness is wanting what you get. - Dale Carnegie
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(Roger Shoaf) says: I think you would be better off machining it after you welded it. The technique you describe is likely to induce warp in the piece and while it may be possible to weld with a technique to reduce the warpage, I doubt you could reasonably expect any technique to give you zero.
Well, I'm not about to got into a buchch of "how I'd do it", and variables include type of joining used, angle iron thickness, etc.. But, yeah, I expect I could do it without warping, and no machining. Not in 30 seconds, but doable close enuogh to zero as to not matter - then you paint it yellow. I figure most people here could, after a bit of practice. Then there's always the 10% that couldn't do it with a robot welder.
But, I doubt I'd do it, I'd probably just use plywood, as described by someone else. Faster, easier, cheaper, just as accurate.
I suppose it comes down to a matter of accuracy. If I was going to make a reference standard I would not like to have an out of square error of .020 over a six inches, but others might think that error to be too trivial to worry about.
--

Roger Shoaf

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It'll move when it comes out of the jig. If not immediately, in time. Guaranteed.
(CW) says:

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Sat, Jan 8, 2005, 10:41pm (EST-3) snipped-for-privacy@earthlink.net (CW) informs us: It'll move when it comes out of the jig. If not immediately, in time. Guaranteed.
Anything to back up that statement?
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Yep, 19 years of machining and fabrication experience. Weldments will move after fabrication unless stress relieved.
(CW) informs us: It'll move when it comes out of the jig. If not immediately, in time. Guaranteed.
Anything to back up that statement?
JOAT Success is getting what you want. Happiness is wanting what you get. - Dale Carnegie
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Sun, Jan 9, 2005, 8:22am (EST-3) snipped-for-privacy@earthlink.net (CW) claims: Yep, 19 years of machining and fabrication experience. Weldments will move after fabrication unless stress relieved.
Machining and fabricating what? You saying "anything" welded will move unless it's stress relieved? Elucidate.
JOAT Success is getting what you want. Happiness is wanting what you get. - Dale Carnegie
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Look it up. It's not my goal in life to educate you.
(CW) claims: Yep, 19 years of machining and fabrication experience. Weldments will move after fabrication unless stress relieved.
Machining and fabricating what? You saying "anything" welded will move unless it's stress relieved? Elucidate.
JOAT Success is getting what you want. Happiness is wanting what you get. - Dale Carnegie
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Sun, Jan 9, 2005, 10:02am (EST-3) snipped-for-privacy@earthlink.net (CW) says: Look it up. It's not my goal in life to educate you.
Sure it is. You're the one seems to think anything and everything that gets welded needs stress relief. I don't. Especially something like this. Hell, if I was that worried about it, I'd just use epoxy, or JB Weld.
What "do" you machine and fabricate? Or, do you just work for a company that does?
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Those brackets are not welded anyway.....Brian
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On Sun, 9 Jan 2005 12:26:51 -0500, snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net (J T) wrote:

he's actually almost completely right. there are ways to weld that do not result in a stressed joint. those would pretty much fall into the exotic category, though...
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On Sun, 9 Jan 2005 12:26:51 -0500, snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net (J T) wrote:

Here's one source that might help you: http://www.welding-advisers.com/Welding-distortion.html
Try Google for more if you don't have personal experience.
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Sun, Jan 9, 2005, 5:19pm snipped-for-privacy@here.com (Guesswho) says: Here's one source that might help you: <snip>
Thanks, but I'm aware of that. You're missing it too. I just don't believe that EVERY weld has to be stress relieved; and, the impression I get, he does.
JOAT Success is getting what you want. Happiness is wanting what you get. - Dale Carnegie
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J T wrote:

It'd be easy if I could afford welding equipment. :)
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I can't imagine anything working better. I use the same setup. SH - The "scrap is cheap" woodworker
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