No, I'm by not mean, it's just that I understand the issues (probably due to more that a 25 years of sealing with the issues), unlike you and your 2 months....
Are you really saying that it's worthwhile, safe and economic to use fully synthetic (or even semi synthetic) oil in for example a bog standard Ford Pop' 100E or 850 Mini ? If you are then you are even more of an idiot than I thought - The marketing men must love you....
Why would anyone with half a brain cell not stick to the maker's recommended oil change intervals? Or use the 'cheapest' oil unless suitable?
Hint. All oils - or rather decent oils sold by a reputable organisation - will have their spec on the container. Provided that spec meets - or exceeds - the spec required by the car maker, and the oil is changed according to the car maker's requirements, the engine will come to no harm.
Of course you seem to think fixed term 'servicing' is the answer to everything. Especially the profits of the person doing that servicing. And don't consider the costs to the customer.
Now if you have more than half a brain cell, it's possible to use a better spec oil and extend the service intervals for changing this. After all, engine makers have been doing this with essentially the same engines for many years.
Clue. Look at oil change intervals for the Austin A-Series in the late '40s. Then in its last incarnation in the Mini the '90s. And consider also the improved filtration.
I don't want tro spend your money and I don't want you to spend your money either. Buy the cheapest mineral oil available and run it for 40,000 miles. Think of that few quid you will save. This you SHOULD do.
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So you're advising others to wreck their engines? Why do you contribute to a DIY group when you spout such rubbish?
Since you're so good at quoting specs without understanding them, perhaps you'd quote any car maker that recommends 40,000 mile oil change intervals using the cheapest mineral oil available?
Clue. If you do some research, you'll find approx 20,000 miles being the max using the finest fully synthetic. Or about half that using high spec mineral oils.
Not in the least. I advise people to use full synthetic oils because of their superior lubrication qualities. You don't want to use these, or have your engine properly lubriacted, and have made this clear. This is your choice. So it is best for you to buy the cheapest oil from the cheapest supermaket and put it in for 40,000 miles. Think of the few quid you would have saved. Who cares if the engine sounds like a can of nuts being rattled. Just think of that few bob you saved. This is the best approach for you and you should do it now. I'm sure it will give you great satisfaction.
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But as usual have a one size fits all answer. If you did some serious research, you'd discover that fully synthetic isn't suitable for all engines or gearboxes - especially some older ones.
No - I want accurate information, not your usual guessing based on half read advertising, which you then regurgitate as gospel.
Carry on making a fool of yourself.
I'm happy to accept the car makers know more about their products and how to maintain them than you.
He has stated endlessly that he uses synthetic oils were their use is warranted, you OTOH seem to want people to use synthetic oils even were their use will give no benefit and possible cause problems.
So it is best for you to buy the cheapest oil from the cheapest
What is it with you and this 40,000 mile figure, is that the point at which you change your synthetic oils ?.... I certainly hope not, at least not if you don't have your oil analysed !
Think of the few quid you would
IMM, you clueless moron, you really don't understand the first thing about lubrication, and to think that you (supposedly) worked in a oil research lab - for two whole months - talk about ROFLMAO...
Clue, even mineral oils *could* go further than 40.000 miles, synthetic oils
*could* fail at less miles, this is why your lab 'friends' put samples of their engine oil etc. in to the oil analyser - so they knew exactly what condition the oil was in, it could have shown up many things that would have had them changing the oil after a very short period of time / miles, it could have even made them remove and strip the engine down for inspection, not just that the oil didn't need changing.
You don't want to use the oils, or have your engine properly lubriacted, and have made this clear. This is your choice. So it is best for you to buy the cheapest oil from the cheapest supermaket and put it in for 40,000 miles. Think of the few quid you would have saved. Who cares if the engine sounds like a can of nuts being rattled. Just think of that few bob you saved. This is the best approach for you and you should do it now. I'm sure it will give you great satisfaction.
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