Whining gearbox - any remedies?

I ran a car from new up to 110,000 miles and did what I suggested to the group. A automotive design engineer suggested the Mobil 1 in the g/box and Slick 50. He said the Slick 50 g/box treatment is worth it as in puts a slippery film around the metal parts. It mixes fine with the Mobil 1 oil with no adverse affects. Do a Google and you will find that people who put this stuff into g/boxes with wet clutches have had clutch slip. The engine stuff he was not keen on at all.

I sold the car to a relative and suggested carrying on from where I left off. He has and is now up to around 160,000 miles. The car still sounds newish, except some belts squeak at bit. His driving is predominantly stop start around town, short runs.

Reply to
top gear
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So one swallow makes a summer?

'An automotive design engineer'. You're not IMM, are you? All lubricants put a slippery film round parts - it's their purpose in life.

Have you asked Mobile about this? If Slick 50 is so wonderful, why not use it alone in the 'box?

Do a Google and you'll find people who think it cures world malnutrition.

Perhaps he designed engines and not gearboxes?

I'd suggest he learns about servicing. Belts squeak because they're slipping. And need replacing or adjusting.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

A few tears ago I had a boss who had a passat that had done 200,000km - I supoose about 160k miles?

Ordinary oil, changed by the book, and it was fine.

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

My last car I had from 10k (ex demo) to 140k, serviced on mileage intervals only, no additives, Castrol Magnatec mineral oil. It wasn't using any oil (except when the oil pressure switch developed a leak), original clutch, no wines or other noises from gear box.

I suspect if I hadn't argued with a wall a flipped it over it would have gone on until the body fell apart, another 50k or more?

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

Yup. That's all that is needed - but be careful to check if early oil changes etc are needed if the car has arduous use, like short journeys, or low annual mileage. The handbook or service book will tell.

My brother's BMW 520 is over 250,000 miles now and still going strong despite being used for towing a caravan. Oil changes only by the service indicator.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Depends on how the car is driven and even 200k miles on modern engines is nothing amazing these days. I'd rather go by the condition of the oil than stick to manufacturer's recommendations.

Regards additives, I believe most of the stuff on the market is a waste of space but Slick50 engine oil additive isn't a bad product. I've used it and noticed engine noise was reduced, especially during start-up, with no adverse effects. No idea about the gearbox stuff, never used it.

Reply to
StealthUK

Way back in 1990 I had a Vauxhall Calibra 2l 16v. In the four years I owned it, it clocked up 155,000 miles with no special treatment, just serviced every 9,000 miles according to the service book. No fancy oils or additives either. The clutch needed attention at 120k, and the shocks went at 140k but the gearbox and engine were both fine.

Cheers Clive

Reply to
Clive Summerfield

A thicker oil will often help with noise during start up. But a thicker oil will also increase fuel consumption and possibly warm up wear.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

It is true that cars can go long mileages without any major work. My point was that using Mobil 1 in the engine and g/box and Slick 50 g/box, and the change intervals I suggested, the engine and transmission is still as smooth as a new one, even after 100K miles. I have come across cars that have really clocked up the miles with the usual roughness after 70K. The original post was about roughness. I suggested how to maintain longevity and smoothness, which actually does work. My design engineer friends says that modern engines are designed to be smooth to 50K miles with normal servicing and decent oil, and some engines deteriorate rapidly in smoothness after that figure. He recommends fully synthetic oils.

I can't comment on Slick 50 engine treatment as I have never used it. As I looked after the engines and transmissions from new using the best oils available, I have never experienced roughness to say that something added stops it.

Reply to
top gear

during

thicker

On a cold start a thick oil may disguise some noise in a clapped out engine but not when warm. IME the engines were smoother hot and cold and there were no negatives regards performance. Also, the oil was no thicker having added Slick50. I've used in at least 5 cars - all ex-fleet 2/3 years old with 70k plus on the clock. The most important thing is that people use a decent quality oil and check it regularly.

Reply to
StealthUK

REGULAR OIL CHANGES WILL HAVE THE SAME EFFECT, it doesn't matter what the oil is, as long as it is the correct spec' for the engine.

And I have known vehicles that have gone 150.000 plus miles on nothing more than the makers recommended oils whilst being changed on or before the advised service intervals for the vehicles use.

Wonder were IMM is ?....

Reply to
:::Jerry::::

The point is, you are getting rid of impurities that otherwise have to be filtered. If the oil still look clean, I will agree that there is little point, but those cases are rare.

Well, replacing a car just because it's X number of years old is what I call a waste of money and resources !.. :~)

Reply to
:::Jerry::::

The oil does matter. The best available is fully synthetics like Mobil 1 and Shell Helix fully synthetics. These oils are much superior to normal mineral oils in just about every aspect. This is a know fact that is not open to question.

I am not disputing that. It is maintaining the smoothness and newness feel for as long as possible that is the point being made by me.

Reply to
top gear

So why are they not specified by the people who design / make the engines ?

IMM, you were proved wrong the last time you spouted this marketing bollox and you will be proved wrong again.

And you are wrong, or are you in fact disputing what I said above ?!

To answer my own question, he seems to have morphed again :~(

Reply to
:::Jerry::::

The makers specify an API rating. It is on the side of the can, Some makes do specify synthetic oils.

You have me mixed up with someone else, and you are not the first on this news group to do so.

Keep asking yourself questions then :-)

Reply to
top gear

Reverse the car / van backwards up a slope to get the front of thr box lower than the back. It helps if the box is nice and warm after a good run.

You can drain the oil through the plug with the extended nose below te reverse light switch, however, ensure its in neutral first- this is the reverse detent spring and rod as you say..

Un do and and withdraw the plug very slowly- you will release the springs tension before the threads are fully clear and be ready to catch the rod / spring as you withdraw the plug. Abit messy, but i used to do it this way on many a cvh equiped mk3 in yesteryear.

Tim..

Reply to
Tim (Remove NOSPAM.

I know that, but it doesn't answer the question as to why the makers don't spec' full synthetic oils if their engines would benefit from the use of such oils...

Well, you certainly quack like him....

Reply to
:::Jerry::::

Don't think so, just look at the evidence: top gear can string together a coherent sentence with comprehensible grammar, and use long words with their correct meaning obviously understood, and he has not resorted to snipping or insulting you yet... can't be IMM! ;-)

Reply to
John Rumm

Absolutely. Which makes additives a waste of money. If an 'additive' was needed, a decent quality oil would already have it.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

But oil is designed to hold some contaminates in suspension, so the colour is nothing to go by. A diesel will have 'dirty' oil after the first start.

The waste of money for most is buying a *new* car of any type, given how fast they lose money in the first year or so.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

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