That is the most stupid thing said so far, only engines that are designed to use synthetic oil need it, all the others will operate quite happily on what they were designed to work with, be that mineral, corn oil, water, or indeed one of the synthetic oils.
Someone with sense on this thread at last, and this is the final post on it from me.
It only makes sense if you are a believer in marketing hype and not fact - FACT.
Is that "Low oil level" or "Low oil pressure". Only if it's the latter and more traditional warning light, when it comes on, you have about 2PSI or less of oil pressure and you are now knackering your engine at an alarmingly fast rate.
Tim
It was very common, almost to common a fault back, IIRC Vauxhall had to do some work on the engine design, now the engines run quite happily on the recommended oils. Again IIRC it wasn't a case of the wrong lubricants but no lubricants that caused the problems, it would not have nattered what oil was being used....
Well, yes. However, perhaps most decent modern cars in good condition and driven sympathetically will do one oil change to the next without needing oil added. Of course with a car new to you you should monitor oil usage in the traditional way - even if fitted with a sensor - and get a 'feel' as to the consumption.
Thank gawd. Now go and peddle your snake oil elsewhere.
You think wrong. 1,500 mile servicing went out many, many, years before OHV Cavaliers.
Why would a pro take advice from an amateur? Or have you changed your tune?
Oil *level*. Both my cars have sensors for this - and one is 20 years old. Of course with any car new to you, you should monitor oil levels in the traditional way and get a feel for how much it does or does not use.
But the days of checking *all* fluid levels have long since gone - unless you're very keen. ;-)
Ah. Never seen one, but I buy cheap 2nd hand cars anyway. That as in they were cheap when they were new, and then I bought them 2nd hand.
I always check before a long run - occasionally I've had cause to bung 1/2 pt in the engine. Often though, I've been caught out by sudden failure on the most important 3 fluids rather than significant gradual loss.
1) Fiat 131, brake line fractured, lost 1/2 the fluid and brakes. That was a *lovely* new years day, freezing my n*ds off in the cold road forming and fitting a new one. 2) Maestro, blew the oil pressure sender, bing, zero oil. Fortunately in a car park so no engine damage. 3) Daewoo, driving home, steam everywhere. Water pump bearing seal gone. 1/4 mile from home, so limped it back.Remember the bit about "cheap 2nd hand..."
Tim
But it does, as there is more to servicing than just changing the engine oil, I've seen far more dangerous faults since 'annual / 12k' service came in than I used to see at the old twice a year '6 month / 6k' service intervals.
Actually *if* IMM is referring to the first dealer check after PDI and delivery then he might well be correct in stating 1,500 miles - this was often described as a 'Free Service' or 'First Service' in the service history book.
I don't tend to top up oil. Assuming it can go the distance without dropping below minimum. But I always change on time and use good quality oil.
Of course, if I were doing a track day where the maximum quantity might aid cooling etc, I'd then make sure it was full. But would probably then change it before such arduous use - and again afterwards. ;-)
Yup. So a sensor is likely to provide *more* protection than routine checking - provided it works. ;-)
I really think many have forgotten - or don't realise - just how reliable modern cars are if given half a chance. At one time I never left home without a toolkit and most common spares - like fan belts, hoses, etc. Now, I can't be bothered, and don't have RAC membership etc either. Even punctures are more rare these days. Those that go on about being able to fix a simple car by the roadside clearly don't remember that you often had to. ;-)
The suthetic ouil can handle the higher temperatures. The problem was most certainly the lead in the fuel.
Very true, but the trolling idiots here will say it's snake oil.
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Well, if anyone was thrashing a car before this they should expect it to fail in a big way, if it was using 'running in' oil. As should anyone who thrashes a car before the oil is up to temperature even *after* it's run in.
I've got even less time than those with no mechanical sympathy than those who think that pouring in a tin of heavily advertised expensive s**te makes their engine or gearbox last forever. Because they're fools. Like IMM, who believes every advert.
That is what the company car drivers do. That is what the point was. Duh!!!
I never said pour in "s**te", whatever that is. I said use fully synthetic oils as all the sensible people here have all said. Read what I write regarding the oil research lab. They told and showed me all about it.
Please keep using cheap lousy oil, as you need too. Be my guest and please use the cheapest oil you can find, the very cheapest of the cheapest, and leave it in for 30,000 miles. You need to do this, you really do. This I'm sure will give you great satisfaction.
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The real point is, doing that to an engine that is still running in it won't matter what frigging oil is used, it will still kill the engine.
Yeh, but who were paying their salaries, Mobil ?
You are the one missing the point, there is no need (or point in some cases) to use an oil that is in excess to what the engine has been designed to use - otherwise you are implying that the recommended oil is unsuitable - funny how so few seize up though...
** snip total amaturish drivel *
-- Doctor Evil
Then all company cars would need replacement engines, etc, early in their lives. Before the warranty ran out. Which would stop makers selling to fleets hat heavily discounted prices, as they'd loose money.
They 'told' you? Methinks you're even more off with the fairies than usual.
Synthetic oils only have an advantage in that they allow longer service intervals with normal cars. Your post suggested they stopped wear in abused engines at extremely low milages - so low the cars would still be within warranty.
Please make up your mind.
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